1 RAD Stripper and 1 RAD Brightener
Coverage: 500-1000 sq. feet per kit. Each Kit Makes 5 Gallons of Stain Stripper and 5 Gallons of Wood Brightener
Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper is the only concentrated powdered wood stain stripper that is specifically designed to be injected through a pressure washer. RAD Stripper may also be applied using a garden type sprayer.
The R-A-D Stain Remover, when injected using a pressure washer, can remove penetrating transparent stains as well as semi-transparent wood coatings.
When RAD Wood Stain Stripper is applied using a pump-up sprayer, it is twice as potent and able to remove most transparent, semi-transparent and even semi-solid wood stains. It is also excellent for getting rid of failed semi-transparent acrylic stains. Coverage rates when applied with a pump sprayer are 100-200 sq. ft per gallon.
After using Restore-A-Deck Injectable Stain Stripper, the wood needs to be neutralized with the RAD Step 2 Brightener.
ADVANTAGES
- #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Stripper
- Removes most clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid coatings.
- Powdered formula makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
- Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon.
- Eco-Safe formulas
- Preps previously stained wood and decks
- Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
- Applied with pump sprayer for max results or injected through pressure washer for easier to remove finishes
- Can be mixed at a stronger ratio for difficult to remove finishes. Max would be 3 gallons of water to one container of Restore-A-Deck Stripper
Coverage: 500-1000 sq.feet per container.
Important Note: Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper may not fully remove Solid Color Wood Stains, Paints, Varnishes, and Excessively Over-Applied Acrylic Semi-Transparent and Semi-Solid Coatings. To remove these deck and wood stain types, use the RAD Paint & Solid Stain Stripper
Judy Heltsley 08/12/2021
We just need to bring the wood in the fence to natural and get rid of the gray before we stain. Is that doable?
We just need to bring the wood in the fence to natural and get rid of the gray before we stain. Is that doable?
Reply with some pictures on prep help.
I am planning to use your stripper with both additives on my cedar porch previously coated several times with Olympic transparent stain. Can this be applied with a standard pump sprayer or will it be so thick that it will need to be rolled on?
Pump spray on and then pressure wash off.
I have new mahogany siding installed 9 months ago and coated with BM armor coat want to change it to AC mahogany stain what would suggest for prep.I also have older mahogany siding treated with Seiken’s that is over 5 years and has darkened and looks pretty bad . I want to go with the same AC Stain what would you recommend for prep on thatLastly I have new mahogany siding and again want to use AC stain on that . should I wait to stain the new or can I stain it immediately and would I prep it with anything
Please post some pictures of the areas that need to be stripped. See here about the new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
We recently had our ipe porch sanded and stained with Thompsons. We’re removing with the RAD stripper and brightener prior to applying AC.
We also have a railing that was not sanded and stained. It’s ~5 years old and grayed. Can we simply apply the RAD stripper and brightener to this at the same time and will the results match?
Water down the stripper if the rails are just grayed to 2-3 oz of powder per gallon of water.
Okay perfect. I’ll have them do that first, then the porch below at full strength.
For ipe, does the AC stain need to be wiped off after to keep it from remaining greasy?
Only wipe if needed an hour later, not right away.
I used ipe oil recently on newly installed tiger wood. It turned the wood to brown. I like to use the AC amber stain. Can I strip the wood now or should I wait? Also, do I need to use the brightner before staining?
You can strip it now and yes you need to brighten.
I used my pressure washer detergent attachment to apply the RAD stripper, rinsed, then brightened. I didn’t realize I was supposed to use a pump sprayer to apply the stripper. After rinsing the RAD brightener off, there is no beading, which leads me to believe it still worked. Is this correct or do I need to redo the stripper? If so, do I also need to brighten again?
It looks okay to stain.
I am removing the stains I used previously by completely sanding the deck, and evening the surface of cupped boards with with a planer. In hard to access areas I am stripping with a conventional gel wood stripper which is doing a fairly good job of removal and will finish those area with a little hand sanding. Which products should I use to finish preparation before applying one of the semi solid Armstrong Clark stains?
After you are done sanding, let it weather for 1-2 months. This will help to open up the pores after the sanding. Once this is done, use this kit for prep:https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
One coat of the AC Stain only.
05/14/2021 >> See attached picture of deck. PLEASE advise per my earlier message J. Repko · 05/13/2021
I have to remove the failed Behr stain used on my deck. Will Restore-A- Deck (1 RAD Stripper and 1 RAD Brightener) remove all the stain still present on the deck? Then I plan on using your Semi-Solid – Woodland Brown stain. Any advise more advise? 5/13/2021
Strippers will not remove this as the stain is on their like a paint or solid stain. To remove you will need to sand off.
I have to remove the failed Behr stain used on my deck. Will Restore-A- Deck (1 RAD Stripper and 1 RAD Brightener) remove all the stain still present on the deck? Then I plan on using your Semi-Solid – Woodland Brown stain. Any advise more advise? 5/13/2021
We would need to see pictures posted here.
Is there a necessary time between applications of deck cleaner & brightened?
No, apply brightener as soon as you are done with cleaner.
Hi – if I pressure washed last fall, do I need to pressure wash again before applying stripper and brightener?
You pressure wash while using the stripper, not before.
I stained my new deck last year with Olympic Elite Maximum Semi transparent stain. I applied 2 coats and after one winter it didn’t hold up very well. I have to re stain it now again and was going to use AC semi solid because it gets full sun most of the day. Do I have to use a stripper and brightener or just a cleaner and brightener as prep before I start staining
You have to remove it fully first. Use both additives as well as it is not an easy strip: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper/restore-a-deck-stripper-additives
Sand if needed when done.
Thank you for your very prompt response. It does seem like it’s going to be a bit more involved than I planned. I better get a move on then.
Thanks for your prompt reply. We followed the manufacturers recommendation and have used the product elsewhere on mahogany, cedar and teak with excellent results. The vertical surfaces of our IPE deck have performed well. Only the horizontal surfaces failed. My inclination is to apply the stain to the vertical surfaces of the deck after sanding (consistent with your recommendation) and maintain the other surfaces as is. It is a large deck and would be a nightmare to have to sand the posts, rail sides, skirts and risers. We are currently building an IPE fence. Am I able to acquire samples of the IPE stain in the three colors?
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
I have a two year old IPE deck with one coat of stain and two coats of a clear polymeric topcoat. Unfortunately, the existing products have failed miserably, either due to poor conditions at time of application or product failure. In any event, I need to start over. Stripping and/or sanding seems like a necessity. My question is, will the Restore-A-Deck stripper remove the polymeric topcoat? Will restoring to bare wood require more than one application of the stripper? What other advice can you provide? Thanks.
No, you will need to sand this off. FYI, you should never topcoat a stain, it will peel.
I have a Tigerwood Deck finished with Ipe Oil every year or so. Would only sanding down be as good as using your strip and brighten product. (I believe in the past I have sometimes sanded AND brightened, but also have just sanded. Why do all of your hardwood finishes contain stain (as opposed to just oil), and which stain would be best for retaining the color in the picture? THX!
You will need to fully remove the current stain using the RAD Stripper Kit. You must have a stain for UV protection. Any of the 3 hardwood colors would work. Color is up to you.
Ok so sanding back to bare wood would not remove it well enough ? Would I have to use stripper kit as you’ve indicated every time I reapply if I stuck with Armstrong?
Sanding will not prep it. When switching brands of stain you always have to remove the previous coating. In this case, it is very easy to remove the Ipe Oil. When you recoat with AC later on, just clean and brighten for prep.
?
With both additves, it should. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper/restore-a-deck-stripper-additives
Will it remove this? Been on about 2 yrs
While I’m here is there any issue in using semi-transparent stain on the deck around this dogwood tree.
No.
I have a very large sensitive dogwood tree (35’+ span) in the immediate vicinity of the deck. The deck covers about 50% of the tree roots. I value the tree more than I value the deck. Will these cleaning products damage the tree?
No.
Not sure if this is a solid stain or paint. Sanding shingles probably not an option. Any ideas on how to strip the shingles. New house to us and not sure of the product on shingles.
Looks like solid stain and that cannot be stripped.
Will the RAD stripper, cleaner and brightener harm asphalt shingles. I need to strip cedar shingle siding and pine T&G soffits that have asphalt shingles underneath them.
No, they should not harm the shingles.
thank you
I have a question if I use your product for cleaning my mahogany deck and brightener, will this harm our water (well) and also, I have a septic within 2 feet. Is this product going to harm my septic? I live in Massachusetts.
No, it will not harm them.
Two questions: (1) which RAD products are best for a new cedar deck with Dekorator powder coated aluminum balusters? There seems to be some oil/grease marks that were there when lumber delivered. (2) do the RAD products both remove mill glaze and open up the pores enough to allow TWP semi-transparent oil based stain to penetrate well, or should I wait a year (deck builder says the moisture content is low and recommends finishing soon). So much money into this 45’x10 raised deck I want to do the right thing by the wood.
1. Typically the prep products do not harm the balusters but always test spot first.
2. TWP suggests 4-12 months of natural weathering for new wood and then prep with the Cleaner and Brightener. Just one coat of stain.
OK, so deck complete end of July – Late November at the earliest, if weather holds, but even then, don’t try to load the wood with stain, just one, decent coat, see how long it holds up, come back 12-18 months? . . . clean & brighten second time, or less prep??
See here for more tips: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Clean and brighten when you redo.
Oops. We’re planning to use your cleaner (not stripper) and brightener. Unless you recommend the stripper. In general the floor doesn’t have any damage from use, ie, stains and blemishes. It looks great except for the old shiny sikkens mostly on the inner boards close to the house as one would expect. Thanks
We are refinishing an old porch mahogany floor. It was finished with sikkens 20 years ago. The old coverage condition is completely gone all the way to intact. I’ve power washed then planning to sand down to wood. Will use your stripper and brightener before applying your hardwood stain.
Questions 1) What grit should be used for the final sanding pass on the mahogany? 2) Below the porch is a lower level where the siding has a semi-solid water based stain. Will the stripper/brightener damage the water based stain?
Thanks for your help!
You will have to remove the Sikkens fully first by sanding and then clean and brighten after. The cleaner and brightener should not harm the stain below.
I used RAD Stripper & Brightener to prep my cedar fence for re-staining. The fence turned out great but the shrubs near my fence have died. I’m still trying to figure out what happened. I covered the shrubs with thin plastic sheeting so there was no direct overspray that got on the plants. But when I rinsed, water and runoff did pool on top of the sheeting. I used RAD in the morning around 9am and didn’t remove the plastic sheeting until later, around 3pm. (Went in to take a break after the hard work.) When I came back to remove the plastic, the shrubs were totally brown!
What could I have done differently? Wife is mad about the shrubs and doesn’t want me to finish cleaning and re-staining the other sections until I can ensure that I won’t kill more vegetation. Thanks.
Sounds like you suffocated and or burned the plants by leaving the plastic on all day. Creates intense heat under the plastic when you do this. You should remove the plastic as soon as possible after you are done in that area. Do not leave on for more than an hour or two. Less if possible.
Ah, okay. I thought that might be the issue. I’ll be sure to remove the plastic sooner next time. Thanks.
My decking butts up against slate retaining walls and stone pathways which have water drains. Will the STRIPPER & BRIGHTENER damage these hardscapes as once I rinse both off after applying, it will run onto these surfaces?
(pics attached)
No, they will not. Rinse well when done to remove soap, dirt, and grime.
Will this product RAD STAIN STRIPPER/BRIGHTENER KIT harm or damage vinyl siding?
No, it should not have any issues with vinyl siding.
I’m planning to restore my hardwood deck. In its current condition, it has patches of the old finish on it, but also large patches of wood where the finish has worn away completely, and that have become gray and weathered (see the attached pictures.) Would you recommend getting the stripper or cleaner, or both? I was also considering getting your amber stain, but also also was thinking about the mahogany; any advice you have on that front would be welcome as well. Thanks in advance for your help!
Strip it all and use both additives: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper/restore-a-deck-stripper-additives
Brightener after. Either color would work well. Colors are your choice: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-photo-album
I’ve ordered the RAD stripper/brightener kits and color samples. In the course of preparing, I have discovered that a handful of boards need to be fully replaced. How long after replacing these with fresh boards (PT SYP) should I wait before beginning the cleaning/staining process so that once done, the new boards don’t stick out like a sore thumb? Does the cleaner/brightener restore the old boards to the same color as the new boards?
Thanks
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Your new wood will be lighter in color no matter what as they are less absorbent. Not a way to make the old and new wood blend.
Understood. If I wait 3 months after installing the new boards, then clean/brighten the old before applying a semi-transparent or semi-solid stain, will it eventually blend together after a season or two or not until the whole deck is again refinished 2-3 years later? I guess I’ll just have to accept it!
It will take a season or two. Semi-solids cannot be applied until the wood weathers for 12 months.
Hi,
I’m confused by the RAD stripper instructions.
It says it’s specifically designed to be injected through a pressure washer, and that when injected using a pressure washer it can remove coatings.
But then it immediately states that when applied using a pump-up sprayer, it’s twice as potent.
Which is the best method to use? Which method provides more coverage per gallon?
Thanks
Pump it on is the best way.
We have a mahogany deck. Some boards were replace be previous owner. I have been searching to find the stain the previous owner used with no luck. Your mahogany stain seems to look the closest.do you have any recommendations for me. Totally strip? The last picture is after previous owner redid. They don’t have any info on what was previously used.
That looks very thick. Not sure if it can be fully stripped so you may have to sand as well to get it all off. It does need to fully come off first. Brighten after. Once prepped, you can use the AC Mahogany stain.
How can a get a sample of your mahogany stain to use on some sample boards.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
I tried to checkout on website multiple times and keeps say no payment selected but won’t let me choose payment method.
As the checkout page states, new orders are suspended until early May.
will this prep and cleaner work on tung oil stain for my cedar log home? thank you
Yes.
We already ordered a 5 gallon Armstrong Clark hardwood stain and it will be delivered either today or tomorrow. Is there anyway we can get 2 stripper/Brightener kits ASAP? (I read the covid announcement with the cart.) will Home Depot product be even close in quality? We really want your product. But have workers lined up
You have to contact us from your previous order as explained in the announcement.
Hello. I am interested in your semi-solid stain for stairs that are made of pressure treated wood and previously stained with a water soluble transparent stain. It has not stood up and is the wrong colour. I think I need the stripper and the brightener to follow. Can the stripper be applied by brush instead of power washer or garden sprayer? I don’t have either. I need a colour that looks good beside siding that is a greyed yellow/brown colour. Sounds awful but is a good colour. Orangey/reddish stains are a no go. Maybe the Pine colour. Any suggestions?
thank you. JG
No, the stripper is applied with the pump sprayer and then pressure washed off. After proper prep, try Natural Oak or Rustic Brown.
I recently power washed my decks and am wanting to change to semi-solid this time. What else do I need to do before I apply the new stain?
Use the Stripper and Brightener for the prep.
Good afternoon,
i have an IPE deck that was coated with sikkens and the temperature dropped below the manufacturer recommendations and so it formed a white milky appearance. I waited five years for it to weather and a painter came and sanded it and applied Penofin last year. The deck still doesn’t look right, Will the stripper and brightener bring it back to life?
Yes, strip and brighten this deck to restore the color.
I have two half gallons of A/C mahogany stain left over from staining my deck in 2016. Also a half gallon of clear stain that I mixed with the mahogany to lighten the color (the 2016 stain was applied over 2014 stain, treated with restore a deck.) It’s 2019 and the deck is overdue for a new application. There is some light graying on the weather side of the deck.
Two questions:
(1) This being the third (or fourth) application, would you recommend prepping using the stripper kit or restore a deck? There its some build up on the inboard sides of the deck that don’t see a lot of rain, plus some darkening or graying on the weather sides of the deck.
(2) The half gallons left over from the 2016 application were sealed well, and the stain appears to slosh around easily in the cans. In one of the posts below I noted that you thought that leftover stain in previously opened cans only lasted six months. Should I buy new stain for the 2019 application?
Kind regards,
Rob Weening
1. Yes, that would help to even out the appearance and is very easy to do.
2. Open up the cans and make sure there is not any gelling, clumping, or excessively thick material. If not and it mixes 100% smooth, you should be okay to use.
We recently added an unfinished cedar deck on to our existing covered, cedar toned porch. I’d like to do the entire deck and porch in A-C but I am guessing I would be best to strip and brighten the existing covered porch first. A few questions:
1: if I splash the stripper or brightener on the new unfinished wood, what will happen?
2: will the stripper or brightener hurt any of the painted railings if it comes in contact?
3: do I need to do anymore than use a cleaner on the new deck? It is brand new, but it will take water so I am assuming it’s ready for stain.
1. No issues.
2. The stripper does not remove paint.
3. See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I am looking to strip a failing stain from a mahogany porch deck with painted trim and skirting underneath. Will the Restore-A-Deck products dissolve or damage the paint on painted surfaces if they splash on them? Any suggestions for dealing with this?
No, it should not remove the solid paint unless the paint is peeling or failing already.
I live in Atlanta, GA. I just replaced a 48′ by 12 ‘ deck. It is Pressure treated lumber from Lowe’s. The railings are PT lumber also but with Powder Coated Aluminium Balusters. It is approx 1 month old. I am going to wait 2 more months before staining and I am going to use AC Semi Transparent. When I prep the deck I plan on Using RAD Cleaner and RAD Brightener. Will these products damage or affect the Powder coated aluminum balusters? Or should I not worry.
Also are the RAD products Bleach based or Oxygen based?
Always test spot first but it should not harm the spindles. Oxygen-based for cleaner. Citric-based for brightener.
does this product work on removing mahogany color semi-transparent stain from Cumaru deck? the stain is from your company
Yes. Works great. Brightener after.
Can you tell me what the shelf life of the stain is in an un-opened can?
what is the determining factor to choose restore-a-deck stripper over cleaner ? We will be pressure washing the cedar deck to remove old semi-transparent water based stain
Unopened and stored correctly, the stain is good for several years. If you are removing a previous stain, you will need a stain stripper. Feel free to reply back with a picture of your current condition to help determine the best way to strip.
Here are a couple of photos which will certainly make great before & after comparisons. Should we be applying 2 coats of the rustic brown ? It is a south facing deck. Finally how long will we be able to keep the stain once it has been opened thx for your help.
You will need to strip and then brighten this for prep. Opened stain lasts about 12 months.
I have a cedar pergola approx. 22×24. It has turned grey and now we plan to stain it. Do we need to clean it before with product or is a good water wash fine?
Yes, you need to prep with this: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
thank you!
What is the best stain options for this pergola?
And are there any dealers in ND?
One of the semi-transparent colors that AC offers: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains
No dealers in ND.
If we use AC semi-transparent stain does the prep need to be the AC RAD kit, or can it be a different brand and the semi-transparent stain from AC still work? Thank You.
Best to use the RAD prep others will work if done correctly.
Will the RAD stripper remove Superdeck semi-transparent?
The oil-based version, yes.
Will this be effective to remove boiled linseed oil?
Yes, it should work with this.
It did remove linseed oil but I had to scrub pretty hard to get it off. Maybe you don’t have as much on as I did.
Pressure wash after applying the stripper.
I previously stained cedar siding which had been sanded to bare wood with Cabot Preservative Wood Finish. After a few years, areas exposed to direct sunlight have heavily peeled back to bare wood. I am considering re-sanding the entire surface and applying an A-C semi-transparent stain. Is it better to use RAD stripper (and Brightener) vs. re-sanding? I am concerned about the stripper potentially damaging the custom powder-coated window frames & trellis, glass and colored concrete (see photos). Secondly, what is the difference between RAD stains (which are referenced on the RAD Stripper instructions) and A-C stains? (I have previously used A-C stain on an Ipe deck and benches)
Strip and brighten for the prep is best. It should not harm the surrounding areas if you are rinsing well when applying and when done. RAD is a water-based stain. AC is oil-based.
I used the RAD stripper and brightener to prep my cedar wall prior to applying the new A-C semi-transparent stain (Amber), as recommended. After drying, the siding has a lot of wood fiber “fuzz”.
Should I lightly sand the fuzz off before applying the stain?
Yes, you can lightly sand or buff off the fuzzies.
if i use the stripper and brightener, but do not stain within 2 weeks can i still stain or should i strip and brighten again?
You should be fine as long as you stain within two weeks of prep. Any longer and you may need to lightly wash again.
I’m re-doing some outdoor wood furniture that is some type of hardwood, i’m using the IPE Black Walnut. Unfortunately when i first did the strip/brightener there were some hidden poly that showed up, the other had peeled away (pretty old furniture) but wood is in wonderful shape. So I sanded away all poly with 60 then 80 but it took awhile to get it right so it’s been 3-4 weeks since i did the strip/brightener there looks to be some stain streaking I didn’t get off the first time will it be ok to do the process again? Thanks for all your help.
Yes.