Make Restoring Your Exterior Wood …Easy!
Our kit provides enough product to clean and then brighten an average 25’x12′ deck with rails and 3 steps (600-800 total sq.feet). For, a fence this package will clean and then brighten both sides of 50 feet of fence.
You will receive 1 container of RAD Step 1 Wood Cleaner and 1 container of RAD Step 2 Wood Brightener.
Leftover product can be used to clean concrete, house siding, lawn furniture, and awnings. (Do not use over grass, clean furniture on a hard surface)
RAD STEP 1 WOOD DECK CLEANER DESCRIPTION
Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner is a powdered concentrate that is mixed with water. It safely cleans and restores the natural beauty of exterior wood. This product also cleans weathered composite lumber, removing mold, mildew, and algae along with the silver-gray color that can develop over time. Restores all wood surfaces to their original appearance Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner will not harm wood fibers, pets, grass, or most plants. Restore-a-Deck Step 1 Wood Cleaner is not a stain stripper or remover of old stains. Please see Restore-A-Deck Stripper Kit if you are trying to remove a semi-transparent stain.
*This product is Step 1 Cleaner of the Restore A Deck system.
RAD STEP 2 WOOD BRIGHTENER DESCRIPTION
Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that is mixed with water to brighten and restore the natural beauty of all species of exterior wood. This product excels at brightening, removing rust stains, and tannin stains caused by fallen leaves. Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener is a safe, product that will not only brighten but neutralize the surface of the wood, creating an ideal surface that is ready to be stained.
*This product is step 2 Wood Brightener of the Restore A Deck system.
RAD CLEANER AND BRIGHTENER ADVANTAGES
- #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Cleaner and Wood Brightener
- RAD Wood Cleaner is designed specifically for all Exterior Wood and Composite Decking
- RAD Wood Cleaner Preps new wood, weathered wood, and maintenance coats
- RAD Wood Brightener neutralizes stain strippers
- RAD Wood Brightener brightens and restores wood surfaces
- RAD Wood Brightener restore pH balance of wood
- Powdered formulas makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
- Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon
- Eco-Safe formulas
- Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
Hi –
Just received my oxford brown semi-solid stain and Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener yesterday and, weather permitting, will start prepping my year old pressure-treated pine deck and fencing. My questions are: Which nozzle head and/or psi setting on my sprayer should I use for cleaning and staining? How far away should I the nozzle be from the wood during both processes? Lastly, should I spray board to board on deck and up/down on the pickets one time over? How/when do I spray the boards that run horizontal to the pickets? Sorry for all the questions but I’ve never done it before and invested a lot of money in project. Thank you.
What are you spraying with? The cleaners can be applied with a pump sprayer but the stain cannot. You would need an airless sprayer for this.
Sorry, my message wasn’t clear. I’ll be using an air sprayer for the stain and pressure washer for cleaning. When using the pressure washer, which nozzle head and/or psi setting should I use? I’ve read that too much pressure can ruin the wood surface. Should I keep the nozzle approximately one foot away from the surface when cleaning?
What is the easiest way to stain the spindles? Someone told me to try soaking a cloth in the stain and wrapping the cloth around the spindle and moving it up and down is easy but…I’m not so sure. I don’t even know what type of cloth to even try this with.
Thank you in advance.
Most wash with the 25 or 40-degree nozzle at about 1500-2000 psi. About 8-12 inches away from wood.
Do not use a rag for the spindles. You can use the airless sprayer or stain pad/brush.
Good morning –
Had a break from the rain and stained the railing. Looks great! First time staining with an Armstrong Clark product. So much easier than paint. Anyway, planned on staining the deck floor but had to go over it with a hose because grass and dirt got on it. I went over it with a garden hose and got it pretty wet. Supposed to be 80 degrees today in CNY. Will I be able to stain today? I wouldn’t get to it for about 10 hours after hosing it down. Thanks.
48 hours after anything wet.
Additional photo
Hi.
Last summer i powerwashed and sanded our entire large 30×24 deck. It was covered in a solid of unknown brand etc. I discovered that most of the deck was either PT or cedar. I replaced almost 3/4 of deck due to rotten boards. I let the unstained deck weather over the winter. I just did a rad kit (clean/brighten). One of the photos is post rad and dry. One is after Rad kit and the deck is wet.
Id like to stain ASAP as I need to get to our pool deck (40×60) but am concerned that I may have not gotten enough off with the first kit. There is some fuzz on some of the boards. I plan to stain with rustic brown. Should I repeat the kit or proceed with staining
You can go ahead and stain now. It will darken and look great!
I used the stain last year and it looked great. However, not so much this spring. So what should my next steps be? It’s still too cold here in Maine to do anything but will start soon. The first two are this year and last one is after staining last year.
Prep with this and apply one coat. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Will the Armstrong semi transparent stain be okay to use on a pool bench as well as the decking? Do I need to clean and brighten after sanding?
Yes. Clean and brighten after any sanding. Just one coat of the stain.
I have a pressure treated pine dock that was installed one year ago. I like the gray color. Can I use restore-a-deck step 1 then apply natural clear stain. Or, will I need to also apply the brighter before the stain.
Natural is not clear but tinted and will enhance the wood similar to a wet look. If you clean you will need to brighten the wood.
If we do not clean the deck will the stain adhere / provide the protection as if we clean clean / brighten? Also is the cleaner / brighter safe for use on a dock.
No, it will not if you do not prep correctly.
Have a new deck that was installed about 1 year to 1 1/2 years ago and we never treated or anything, If I wanted to just keep it the wood color would we just utilize the Clean/Bright stuff that you offer? Or would you recommend something else (we like the color of the wood now that it is still fairly new)?
The Cleaner and the brightener will remove dirt and graying. You will need to stain it though if you want any UV protection from graying.
compare RAD to Armstrong Clark
The RAD Kit on this page is a cleaning prep kit and the AC is a wood stain.
Hi
We have a new deck that we sanded and stained a year ago. The surface has a black mold like finish now it is in a shaded area in the winter. Do I just need to clean/brighten and re-stain?? Why did this happen? I can attach a photo if needed. I didnt think we would have to re-stain for several years.
See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I will be applying a maintenance coat of semi-transparent cedar stain on a pergola that was stained 5 years. After prep of the cleaner and brightner. How many coats of stain should be applied? Thanks
If the previous coating was a different brand, then you must strip and brighten for the prep. If it as Armstrong, then clean and brighten. Just one coat should be okay.
I live in Dallas,Texas and I have a friend who had her deck painted years ago. Her painter has suggested using a name brand semi-transparent oil based stain over her deck. Her deck is too large and too costly to strip to the bare wood. Am I right or is the painter right that even a semi transparent oil based stain cannot be used over a previously painted surface. Is her only option to paint over paint? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Only a paint can be applied over paint.
About to have a new deck installed out of pressure treated pine. Do I need to clean / brighten the deck before staining or will a good pressure washing a month or so after install be sufficient?
See this for new wood tips: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Will be sanding a 15 year old PT deck before application of your stain. Is Cleaner and Brightener also required?
Yes. You should clean and brighten after sanding for final prep. Do not sand with a grit finer than 60-80.
Thanks
Hello,
I had a new cedar deck installed about a year and a half ago and did the cleaner, brightener and two coats of stain. The steps are a high traffic area and the stain is getting worn off, so it needs to be reapplied this year. Do I use the stripper/brightener kit or the cleaner/brightener kit before I restain?
Cleaner/brightener kit.
My deck is 3 years old and never been treated or stained. It is cedar toned decking. On 8/9/18 I cleaned it with Behr no.63 all in one deck cleaner. Applied it according to directions. Scrubed it and hosed it off with garden hose. It looks pretty good after cleaning it. There is some white fuzziness in some spots that you can see when it’s wet. I was going to apply Thompsons water sealer on it but after reading so many bad reviewsI decided against it. I want to protect my invetment with the best possible product I can find. Your product seems to fit the bill. Will I need to use your cleaner and brightener or just the brightener? Do I need to use a power washer with your product? What stain would you recommend for my cedar toned decking? How many coats do I need to apply? Are there any dealers near me in Harris, MN? How long will it take to receive your product? My deck is an L shaped deck measuring approx. 28×12 and 23×12.
Best to use both prep products for this. Any color of the AC will work but most choose one of the semi-transparent tints. Two coats applied wet on wet. No dealers in MN but we can ship directly to you. Takes about 2-3 business days.
Does Wood & deck stains come in different colors or just clear
The AC comes in many different colors: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains
If I clean and brighten my deck, do I need to stain too? Or is it ok to clean and brighten in between staining years?
The cleaner and the brightener are to be used for prep when reapplying. It is not used for general cleaning between the years.
Yikes …. so frustrated ….. checked in last week and was told these are oxidized cells even though we cleaned and prepped according to directions. Several concerns:
1. Put on a second coat because we got rain before it dried. Still tacky and sticky after 12 hours.
2. Furch and fuzz on many spots.
3. Shiny in some spots.
4. Not adhering in other spots.
Now what?????
Actually, it looks very good in the pictures. Try wiping down any shiny, over applied spots with mineral spirits and a rag to remove the excess stain. Make sure to take all oily rags and saturate them in water. Lay flat to dry outside.
As for the one light board, that is the actual board having an issue with taking the stain there. Something in the wood grain is repelling it.
Hi there,
I will be ordering the Armstrong Clark Semi-transparent in the Grey Driftwood color. My deck is at least 20
years old (some parts newer) and had been painted opaque grey (Summit). It is now peeling of course as it does every year. I’m hoping going with the semi-transparent good quality stain will get me 2-3 years between stainings. My question is, should I sand it right down again? I usually rent the large electric sander at Home Depot. Deck is approx. 30´ x 20´. Would I then use the Restore a deck product as well??
The solid paint must be removed first. Sand this off fully and the use the RAD Cleaner/Brightener Kit for the full prep.
We installed a new redwood deck last summer and are ready to stain it now. We just got done using the restore a deck by dampening the wood and then applying the solution. We waited 15 minutes and then cleaned it with a power washer. As it is drying, there are pieces of white fluff showing and still some grime that I can roll off with my hands. How clean does the deck need to be before we add the brightening? Will the furring or the grime wear off when we brighten it? Are we going to deep with the pressure washer? Thanks
That is oxidized wood cells being removed. That happens when you let the wood sit in the sun uncoated. The longer it sits, the heavier the oxidation. It needs to come off during the cleaning prep.
What is the best way to remove it?
Use the cleaner and pressure washing to remove all oxidation. Rinse very well when done to remove the pulp. Brighten the wood. If needed, lightly sand or buff the flooring after it dries to remove any “fuzzy” spots.
Hello from Canada, we live very close to Ogdensburg N.Y. Is your product for sale in thats area?
No dealers there but if you have an address in NY, we can ship it there and you can pick it up.
Hello! We have an older deck which has never been stained or painted before. We don’t know the age or what kind of wood it is made of, but we think it is some soft wood. The wood has some cracks and is greyweathered but still very solid. I cleaned the deck with Behr cleaner, it does look very bright and clean now. However, after reading multiple bad reviews on bleach cleaners we are concerned what to do now before we stain the deck with Armstrong Clark stain.
My questions are
1) would you recommend sanding the deck at all? There is no stain or paint to strip and we are not concerned about it not being smooth enough. Our main goal is to prep the deck as perfectly as we can for Armstrong Clark stain to penetrate the wood ideally and last longer.
2) Even though it has been cleaned with Behr cleaner now, would you still recommend to re-clean it with RAD kit (cleaner and brightener)?
3) can we skip the cleaner and only do the brightener?
4) if the answer to question 3 is yes, is there any point in using a brightener after a Behr cleaner? Will it help?
5) how much time do we have to apply the stain after cleaning? We probably won’t be able to start staining for the next 2-3 weeks. Is it too long? Will we have to clean again before staining?
Thank you very much in advance!
1. No need to sand
2. Just neutralize the bleach with the RAD Brightener
3. Yes
4. Yes
5. 2 weeks is typically the max after prep.
Last fall I had approx. 50 ft x 6 ft tall northern white cedar fence built. The posts between each section are 4 x 4 treated pine. In order to preserve it’s very light color and appearance, I plan to stain it with Armstrong Clark natural tone wood stain (I tested with a sample and like the look a lot). The fence has now been thru one winter and colorwise, it looks exactly the same as when it was built last fall. Do I need to first do a step1 and step 2 cleaner and brightener before staining?
Yes, you do. The wood oxidizes from the sun and you will need to remove the oxidized wood fibers.
My fence is 50 ft long by 6 ft high. How much Natural Tone wood stain will I need? Also, will one cleaner/brightener kit do?
For doing both sides, one RAD prepping kit and one 5 gallon pail should cover:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-stain-5-gallon-cleaner-combo-kit
My backyard has a different type of fencing on each side (untreated cedar, untreated redwood, and unknown painted wood that is peeling). I was planning on using the clean/brighten prep for the untreated wood. Will the stripping prep work on old paint? Will I need to use a semi solid stain (like oxford brown) to make the different types of wood appear more uniform, or can I use a dark semi transparent stain (like black walnut)? Thank you.
Stain strippers will not remove paint. You can use either a semi-solid or semi-transparent for the untreated areas but the AC cannot be applied over paint.
Hello. I am in the process of installing an Ipe deck. Since it was completed in two phases, and part of it is shaded, I now have a section that has been weathered for a few months and another section that is new looking. If I wait another couple of months to weather it all, it will still have different color areas. Will the deck restore kit even the color of the sections of wood prior to oiling? I have sampled your amber color and plan to use that. Thank you.
It will all even it out after letting the new wood weather.
I applied AC Stain in Mahogany to my IPE deck last year and it came out great. I was planning on reapplying so I had the deck lightly power washed last week and I noticed after the deck dried that there were white boot prints all over it. I called the guy I hired and he told me he used a bleach solution. He said he cleans ipe decks all the time and never had this happen When he came over to look at it he said the only way to get rid of the prints was to sand the whole deck. I’m wondering if this RAD product would work instead of sanding, or do I need to do both?
Please post a picture so we can see.
It’s raining now, I’ll send a pic tomorrow when it’s dry. Thanks for responding so quickly!
Here is a photo of the deck
Photo
Stripping should fix this.
I last used AC Oxford Brown in 2014. It is time to stain again – what steps should I take for best results? What is the best way to clean between the slats of the deck prior to staining?
Hi Chris, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kit with pressure washing for the prep. This should also clean between the boards. Just one coat the AC Oxford should do it.
We have a dog that scratches the deck with her nails. If we stain as dark as possible, would the scratches show up more pronounced?
If the dog scratches are down to the bare wood then yes they will show lighter in color.
Also it was natural tone semi transparent.
I think you did a great job on the staining!
I used This kit, and an electric pressure washer (1600psi), to clean and brighten a 450 sqft cedar deck that was build last september. a lot of furring occurred and I used a orbital palm sander with 80 grit to get most of it out, but when the sun hits the deck in the evening you can still see some furring. Also the color of the deck boards came out a bit splotchy. This was my first cedar deck staining experience, and I believe I failed. Any way to reconcile the deck? I have plenty of stain left, and cleaner, do I need to strip and re-sand everything a bit better?
The chance of getting some furring is normal and depends on the amount of oxidation/graying of the wood prior to prep. The cleaner removes the gray wood fibers and if heavily oxidized, furring may occur. Lightly sanding to remove is the best way. In addition, you want the wood slightly rough and not smooth like a hardwood floor. This allows the stain to soak in deeper and perform better overall.
From the pictures, the deck looks great. it would be best to just lightly clean and reapply a light single coat of stain as needed. This should even out any blotchiness from the first coat of stain.
I live in sonora a. We just finished putting in a new doug fir deck. We had talked with you and you suggested we not stain until spring. The deck is now growing black mold/mildew. What do we do???
Leave it to Spring and prep to remove it with this Kit.
My only concern about waiting to spring is that the mold is rapidly covering the entire deck and since it is unfinished with no stain/ seal I am afraid the mold/mildew (it is black) will get into the wood and I will be unable to get it off 5 months from now. It is doug fir from sonora lumber (no fault on them just being descriptive). The top of deck was put on in oct just before it started raining. Part of the deck is under a roof and if it rans a lot the water overflows the gutters and comes down on the deck. Does is your advice to wait till spring still the same?
Yes, you have to wait and the mildew will come off with the proper prep.
Can I use fans and heater to dry deck after cleaning and brightening? Rain is expected and the temps are in 40s post rain.
I sanded a new pressure treated wood deck on the hand rails and floor boards with a 120 grit sand paper.I then used the RAD kit and followed the directions exactly, even using warm water on the brightener. After staining, I still see some small particles through the stain that I assume are sanding particles. I had hoped the RAD would eliminate any particles from sanding. I know the grit paper is not the required course number, but I assumed a little less should be OK. I have 4 more decks to stain and I was thinking of just skipping the sanding altogether to eliminate any particles left behind. What are your thoughts? Also, I think I read somewhere where the shelf life for an opened 5 gallon container of stain will last for one year in a controlled environment. Is that correct?
Did you let the new wood weather? No need to sand, just clean and brighten after the wait for the wood to weather:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Shelf life is 12 months or less for an opened pail.
Again2
[quote name=”Laura”]I leave in NJ and installed a new deck using pressure treated wood. It is a bout 3 months old. I have filled the smalls holes with wood filler and lightly sanded the deck.
Looking to stain it now, was filling the holes and sanding create an issue for the stain? Do I still need to use Step 1 AND Step 2 to prep it.[/quote]
Wood filler does not work on exterior wood and will not “stain” to blend with the AC or any semi-transparent deck stain. The filler will, unfortunately, stand out when done and will fail within a year after the Winter. As for the prep, yes, you need to use the kits. See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I leave in NJ and installed a new deck using pressure treated wood. It is a bout 3 months old. I have filled the smalls holes with wood filler and lightly sanded the deck.
Looking to stain it now, was filling the holes and sanding create an issue for the stain? Do I still need to use Step 1 AND Step 2 to prep it.
[quote name=”Paulie”]I have just bought a used smallish cedar playset with 6 year old cedar stain that needs to be stripped. So I would use the RAD stripper to do this. I also just built a pressure treated brown fence (unstained) that I am hoping to stain next spring with AC cedar semi-transparent. My question is, can I use the RAD stripper to clean and brighten my fence, perhaps by diluting it, or must I use the RAD clean/brightener? I’m trying to avoid buying two products (better for the environment/reduces wastage.)[/quote]
It would be best to use the two different products and not use stripper on a new unstained fence.
I have just bought a used smallish cedar playset with 6 year old cedar stain that needs to be stripped. So I would use the RAD stripper to do this. I also just built a pressure treated brown fence (unstained) that I am hoping to stain next spring with AC cedar semi-transparent. My question is, can I use the RAD stripper to clean and brighten my fence, perhaps by diluting it, or must I use the RAD clean/brightener? I’m trying to avoid buying two products (better for the environment/reduces wastage.)
[quote name=”Russ Vranna”]I have aged my cedar decking in an out building for 3 months. Do you recommend I continue to age it in place before applying the finish? And, do you recommend I finish/seal the bottom prior to laying the wood in place?[/quote]
Age after install for 3 months and then prep. No need to stain the bottoms.
I have aged my cedar decking in an out building for 3 months. Do you recommend I continue to age it in place before applying the finish? And, do you recommend I finish/seal the bottom prior to laying the wood in place?
[quote name=”Terry Blakely”]I am about to order some AC to re-stain my IPE deck. I have a separate structure with a small landing area and steps made from pressure treated pine. Would the AC for IPE be ok to use on this small area to avoid having two different products?
Thank you![/quote]
Yes, but the wood types will have a different color when done.
I am about to order some AC to re-stain my IPE deck. I have a separate structure with a small landing area and steps made from pressure treated pine. Would the AC for IPE be ok to use on this small area to avoid having two different products?
Thank you!
I have a 13 year old mahogany deck that has never been stained. I do pressure wash every year. I want to use the mahogany stain to prolong the life of the wood. Should I also use the RAD prep kit?
[quote name=”Cindy S”]Will the stripper remove solid stain (Cabot)? Some areas are peeling but others have several coats to remove.[/quote]
Sorry but no it will not remove a solid color deck stain.
Will the stripper remove solid stain (Cabot)? Some areas are peeling but others have several coats to remove.
[quote name=”Iris”]Is your product only available on line or can I buy from a local dealer?[/quote]
On our website only for this.
Is your product only available on line or can I buy from a local dealer?
[quote name=”Zander”]Thank you. Is there a way to fill the holes that will work with the stain?[/quote]
No. Wood filler simply does not work on exterior decking and does not blend with deck stains that show the wood grain.
Thank you. Is there a way to fill the holes that will work with the stain?
[quote name=”Zander”]I am going to use RAD to prepare cedar gates for the stain. There is some metal ‘jewelry’ on the gates like hinges etc. All the metal parts are presumably weather resistant, power coated and otherwise protected, all black colored. Should I just apply RAD chemicals all the way through or do i need to somehow specially protect them?
A second question is – i had to apply some wood filler on the cedar boards. What would you recommend regarding using a pressure washer when applying RAD? I am afraid that the pressurized water will damage the filler.[/quote]
Depends on how the metals parts are made if you need to protect them or not. There are 100s of different brands and they are not all made the same. Test spot first to see if there is any reaction or not. Most likely it will be fine.
Wood filler does not work on decking and will not stain to blend with the AC. Don’t use it.
Use a pump sprayer to apply the RAD, and lightly pressure rinse off.
I am going to use RAD to prepare cedar gates for the stain. There is some metal ‘jewelry’ on the gates like hinges etc. All the metal parts are presumably weather resistant, power coated and otherwise protected, all black colored. Should I just apply RAD chemicals all the way through or do i need to somehow specially protect them?
A second question is – i had to apply some wood filler on the cedar boards. What would you recommend regarding using a pressure washer when applying RAD? I am afraid that the pressurized water will damage the filler.