Armstrong Clark is a penetrating oil based stain that will soak deep into the wood grain offering protection from UV graying and water. The advantages to a penetrating deck stain is that they will not peel but rather fade over the years. The key though is proper prep before applying your AC especially if your wood is new.
New “smooth” wood should not be stained right away with Armstrong Clark. A few things need to happen first:
- The wood should dry out in the climate
- Exposed layers of wood cells should oxidize slightly
- Mill glaze needs to be removed
- Prep after waiting will remove both oxidation and mill glaze
New Decks and Armstrong Clark Stain Tips
The best advice is to not stain your new smooth wood too soon after install but follow these steps:
- Install wood and let sit outside for 3-4 months or more if using a transparent or semi-transparent color. If using a semi-solid color, you should wait 12 months.
- Once the wood has been exposed, use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep.
- Let the wood dry for 2 or more days after prep.
- Apply 1 coat of the Armstrong Clark Stain. Do not over apply.
To maintain your new coat of AC you will most likely need to a light coat in 12-24 months to just the floors or horizontals surfaces. In the future, you will need to reapply AC every 2-3 years for most scenarios or as needed based on your particular traffic and weather.
Important Note: Rough Sawn cut wood can be stained right after install as long as the wood is clean and dry.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-300 square feet per gallon for the first coat on new wood. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
If you have a question on prepping your need wood or deck, feel free to ask below.
I have just installed a green redwood deck. The wood had stains and markings so I sanded it with 180 grit sandpaper. I now know that was a mistake. How long should I wait before staining do I have to sand with a more coarse grit paper? I live in the San Francisco Bay Area. If I wait until spring, will the rainy weather of winter raise the grain sufficiently for the stain to penetrate? I suspect I will choose a semitransparent stain.
Wait the 3-6 months before final prep and staining as the article states. The sanding of the marks will be fine as the natural weathering will even it out.
it depends. its its already dry from sitting around at the lumber yard you can paint it right away. my wood was dry already and i painted it like 3 weeks later, i did the water test – if you throw water on it and it doesnt bead but seeps in its ready for painting. Also look at your wood after a rain storm – if it shrinks and expands which mine did means its already super dry because its taking in water. As for grit i like my wood to have lots of texture and such so rough parts and smooth parts make it look purty like! I also dont like to sand pressure treated anything cause it super toxic – and the stain worked super well. Armstrong is bascially the best stain.
Sorry but, no, you cannot stain right away. It has to weather and be prepped. This will remove the mill glaze and open the grain of the wood. It is not about moisture content but the porosity of the wood and new wood cannot be stained right away. Doing it too quickly and not following the directions can result in premature failure or improper curing.
A few months ago I stained my new cedar deck with your Cedar Stain, it looked fantastic. We have several mature oak & hickory trees in our yard. Now I need to clean the deck, oak trees are very dirty. Last night I tried cleaning it using a garden hose and a push broom, no luck.
What do you recommend using to clean my newly stained deck?
Try some dish soap and warm water to see if that helps. Our cleaners would be too aggressive as they are used when prepping for reapplication.
I installed a new 2nd story Doug Fur deck 60 days ago in Montana. Got your natural stain today. Do I have to sand the deck or is just cleaning enough? Also, should I stain the underside?
Clean and brighten the wood for the prep is the proper way, not sanding. No need to stain undersides.
Another question. The deck I’m about to stain is about 2 feet off the ground so no one will ever see the underside. Should the bottoms of my cedar deck boards be stained at all? Is there is a need for that. Also, my joints are pressure treated lumber. Should those be stained? I’m just not sure if staining them (or using another product) will protect them from rot and/or extend their life. Thanks, David
No need to stain the undersides or framing.
Hello – I purchased new western red cedar boards from Home Depot (i.e. there were stored inside) over the weekend. I prepped them yesterday with a couple Woodrich products I had (1st the “wood cleaner & mild stripper” followed by the “wood brightener & neutralizer”). Today they are out in the sun drying and I was planning on staining the boards tonight. (I wanted to stain before I install them so I could get to the sides of the boards easier). Is my plan ok, or should I let the boards sit out / dry out in the climate for a few weeks/months first and then prep them again before staining?
You will need to let them weather for 3+ months and the prep again.
Thank you for your reply. Is it just a matter of moisture content? If so, what percentage does it need to be under? I think 20% right? What if the boards are already below that – do I still need to let them weather for 3 months?
No, it is not a matter of moisture content. The wood needs to season exposed for the 3 months. After the slight oxidation, you will prep to remove the mill glaze. This will allow the stain to soak incorrectly.
There is not a way to speed this natural process up or avoid the weathering.
Thank you again for the replies – they are very helpful. Two final questions on this topic. Since I have already prepped once with a cleaner/mild stripper followed by a brightener/neutralizer, what steps should I take in 3 months. Both products again?
When I’m ready to stain, I will be using the Rustic Brown semi-transparent. In 3 months, I’ll be concerned about maintaining a 50+ degree temperature (especially overnight). Since you say 3+ months, is it fine to let the wood weather over the winter and then stain in the spring – that could be 9 months from now. Thank you!
Yes, both products again. Waiting until Spring is okay as well.
I am putting down new cedar boards. The decay on the old boards was at the joists. So I would like to coat the bottoms of the boards, at least at each joist and board ends.
Can I cut the boards and leave them in place without attaching them until seasoned?
Yes, you can do this.
I have figured out how much stain I need based on your calculator, but my deck sits on a slope, 10 ft off the ground at highest and about 5 feet at lowest. I have about 550 square feet of lattice beneath the deck. How much more stain do I need and should I stain both sides of the lattice? The deck and lattice is all new wood – deck is ecolife, kiln dried pine. I live in Charlotte, NC. thanks
Only the exposed side of the lattice. About 3 gallons for the lattice. Just one coat.
What is used to clean the brushes and sprayer after staining?
Mineral spirits.
I’m replacing my deck since I just moved in and notice the decking wasn’t protected underneath and that’s where dry rot was found and the reason to replace, can I sand the cedar to speed up the process to stain sooner using AC
Hi Matt,
No, sanding will not speed up the needed weathering for new wood.
I am staining pressure treated wood. I have many delicate trees and flowers around the deck. Aside from using chemical brighteners can I sue anything else to clean the deck? Will baking soda work? Or or just a good scrub Andy wash. Please tell me how I can do it without using any chemical brightener or ‘enviro’ brighterner. Thanks
The Restore A Deck Cleaning Kits are Eco-Safe and would be your best option. Baking soda would be no good.
Not sure if this changes anything, but I just had my cedar lumber milled from old telephone poles 50-60 years old, so it’s goid and dry!! Do all the same prep tips apply? It’s rough-cut and went one path through the router. But still not smooth! It’s completely built, but I just had it cut about 3 weeks ago. And different suggestions? Or just follow the basic directions? Thanks
If not smooth you should be okay to stain now.
What kind of brush do you recommend for application?
Try a deck stain pad for best results.
The pad is the best but dont put it too thickly that it drips off and have a brush there to push it into tight corners. Also put plastic on the ground i totally stained my concrete driveway too…..
Can I stir the Armstrong stain with a paint stick to mix it before use or do I need something else?
Paint stick will work but we like paint drill mixers. Attaches to your drill.
Day time temperatures in my location over the next week range from mid 60’s to low 70’s. Night time temperatures range from mid to high 40’s. Is this suitable for cleaning and staining my deck?
Yes it is.
another question – i built my deck around a tree with pressure treated wood. The deck wood looks pretty good – can i skip the cleaning and brightening aside from a pressure wash or cleaning using a enviromentally friendly dish soap? I dont want all the chemicals to damage the tree (i planted 5 years ago). What would happen if i stained after just using a pressure wash? Will it still penetrate and hold? Last year as a test i stained some tables i made out of pressure treated wood without anything and it seems like the stain did pretty good and penetrated deeply.
please advise
thanks
Mat
You have to prep correctly with the cleaners and they will not harm the tree. Eco-safe. The prep products help the stain to soak in deeper, will make your job easier, and you will use less pressure.
i built a deck made of pressure treated wood last july 2017. When should i stain it with the armstrong stain? Can i stain it now? Its been nearly 9 months. Im up in canada. For prep can i just pressure wash it rather than use checmical cleaners? Please advise
thank
Maty
Yes, you can stain it now. Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing so you do not damage the wood. Apply the brightener after.
What happens if I stain “semi transparent” in 40 degree weather?
Since it is below the suggested temperature range, you will run the risk of the stain not drying and curing correctly.
If the temp is 50 plus during application , will it be ok if the temp dips in the 30s at night?
Cannot drop below freezing overnight. At least a few hours of drying in the 50s.
I stripped and brightened a cedar deck in 2015. I want to re-stain. Your site says I can restain without stripping. Do I have to clean and brighten before re-applying?
If you are using the same color and AC stain as last time, then you need the cleaner and brightener kit for the prep:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Can this oil stain be applied over old latex stain? We’re planning to sand and power wash the decks. The flat surfaces are peeling and flaking, the posts and face boards still have good color and coverage.
No. The old latex will need to be removed 100%. Once removed, you can use the Armstrong Clark.
We will be installing a new PT Pine to a flowing dock in Alabama. What stain would you suggest to apply to keep the wood deck from becoming too hot to walk in the summer?
Make sure wait and prep as the directions state. Use a lighter color for less potential of heat retention. Example colors would be Natural, Cedar Tone, Semi-Transparent Cedar.
How long does your semi-transparent deck stain last/remain effective if in an unopened can? You have no dealers in Canada so I was thinking about ordering twice as much as I need to do the recommended light top-up in 12 months. thank you
Unopened cans will last a few years as long as they are stored in a temperature controlled room. Always stir well before using.
I live in Houston, TX and have a new canoe dock above water rebuilt after Harvey. The wood is UC4A, Azole CA-C Copper 15 treated made by Eastex. It was completed in first week of Sept 2017.
Would appreciate for help with these questions:
1) should I wait for 4 month until Jan 2018 to apply the stain or mid Nov 2017 (2 months) is OK too?
2) Considering the heat, humidity and harsh sun light in Houston, should I consider semi-solid or semi-trans will do just well?
3) The quoted size is 125 sqft. plus 2 short simple benches, will 1 gallon be enough or will order 2 gallons.
4) How long will take to receive in Houston after placing order?
Thank you.
1. Spring. Make sure to clean and brighten for the prep. 2. Either would work well. 3. For one coat, 1 gallon should work. 3. 3-4 business days.
What will happen if I apply to slightly green wood? I am building a pergola structure and would much rather pre-stain the lumber. Plus I don’t really have storage available for all the lumber.
It will potential not absorb and cure correctly. You should not pre-stain without the weathering or prep. Best to install, let weather, prep, and the stain.
I am building a redwood deck. Started in April and went slowly. Finishing now in October. Climate is sunny and very dry. I noticed after a couple days the redwood boards I layed would change color slightly after sitting in the sun for even a couple days. So since I knew this was going to be built over a few months, I covered the deck with a tarp so the wood would stay consistent (the unused boards would stay inside the garage). There are some water marks everywhere, but assuming those can be cleaned? Now ready to stain, but wondering if I should wait until Spring. We have one last week of 60-70 degree weather, but lows are around mid 30s. I thought I really need to stain before Spring to avoid the redwood turning greyish and dull. So – best to rush and stain this week or cover with tarp and wait for spring? Note – snow will be sitting on the deck at some points during winter. Thanks for any insight!
Yes, you should wait until Spring. You want the wood to weather and turn slightly gray is okay. The prep will remove this. Do not cover the wood with a tarp. Leave fully exposed.
Thank you. Will it require pressure washing to restore the wood come spring? The wood is B grade redwood, so it has some sapwood too. Does that cause any complications when it comes to leaving it exposed through winter?
Thanks again, very helpful.
Use the Restore A Deck Kit and pressure washing for the prep in the Spring. The wood will be fine through one Winter.
Leave uncovered and prep and stain in Spring. It has to weather properly.
Additionally, I am installing six 10-inch diameter columns on the porch, and if I don’t pre-treat the flooring during installation, there will be no opportunity to treat the wood under the columns. Won’t this be a problem having untreated flooring under the columns, with the opportunity for rot, etc., to occur in these areas?
No. Wood stains like the AC are for exposed wood and would have no benefit for the unexposed wood. You want the wood to be able to breathe as well and not 100% sealed on all sides.
I am replacing my Southern Indiana front porch (west facing) with new Douglas Fir tongue and groove flooring in November. Based on your responses to previous responses I’m assuming I need to wait until spring to apply any treatment (it won’t be warm enough any time sooner). Is this correct? Additionally, I was planning on applying your penetrating semi-transparent stain to the underside of all the porch floor as well for added protection. However, once the floor is installed I will not have access to it. So is it better to apply a coat to the new wood before installation, or go without any application at all? Thx.
No need to stain the underside prior to install. Wait until Spring, prep, and then stain.
We would like to use stain on our front porch floor. House was built in 1900 & think floor is close to original. We did have to replaced a few boards & did so with kiln dried fir. Planning on having sanded to remove existing paint & stain next week. Do we need to wait until spring to stain? Local hardware store suggested to pour water on new boards to see if soaks in. Pic is example of one of the several spots I tested.
Yes, you will need to wait until Spring to prep and stain.
I have a two newly installed IPE T&G porches under cover plus exposed IPE stair treads. The IPE was installed about 1 month ago. Waiting 2-4 months will put us into winter here in New York. I see responses below that is better to wait until Spring than to apply during the winter. Is this true to IPE as well? Will the IPE not weather and turn grey over the many months (8 or more) until the deck can be sealed in the Spring? Or will the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener remove the greying of IPE before a Spring sealing? Thank you very much for your time and inpiut
Yes, you should wait until Spring. It is okay if it grays, the prep kit will restore it.
Thank you very much!
I have new KDAT Southern Pine. Is it better to stain the fresh boards prior to installation, or install the boards then stain? Also, do I need to use cleaner/brightener on the new KDAT boards prior to staining?
For this wood type, install first, let sit for 30 days and prep first with the Restore A Deck Kit. Only one coat of the Armstrong is to be applied.
Hello.
We finished our cedar deck floor-boards and cedar skirting in mid August. We live in Toronto, Canada and the temperature is starting to drop. Would it be best to apply stain now or wait until the Spring. If the answer is to wait should I apply anything for the winter or will it be okay for one winter season.
I see a similar question recently posted but wanted to ask based on our different location. Thanks in advance.
Ray
Wait would be best. No need to do anything to the wood now.
We recently installed a new cedar deck, finished approximately August, 2017. We live in Kansas and can have harsh winters, although not always. Should we stain our deck now or wait until spring?
Wait until Spring.
Thank you for the quick response!
I have a new cedar deck that was installed 5 months ago. I will clean and brighten and allow to dry for two days. Then I’ll also only apply one coat. How long should I leave the oil on before wiping? Secondly if the wait time before wiping is multiple hours, is it ok to walk on the oiled deck prior to wiping or will i leave footprints? Any tips for how to overcome this perceived issue would be appreciated.
You do not back wipe the AC. Just apply the one coat and let it soak in and dry fully.
Thank you. I’m concerned there will be tacky areas if I don’t back wipe. Should I not be concerned about tacky-ness if I don’t back wipe?
You cannot back wipe the AC. If you do, it will not cure correctly.
[quote name=”TonyDe”]As a Cincinnati Ohio resident, we built a new deck and looking for best process to clean the deck and then need recommendation on transparent stain which can be stained over again in a couple of years again.[/quote]
Please read the article above. It explains the wait and prep needed. As the for the stain, use any color of the Armstrong that you like.
As a Cincinnati Ohio resident, we built a new deck and looking for best process to clean the deck and then need recommendation on transparent stain which can be stained over again in a couple of years again.
I live in Cincinnati Ohio and have built a new deck – about 1000 sq. ft.
Need to stain for the first time.
Need recommendation
[quote name=”Thane Kading”]I live in Iowa with harsh winters. I am replacing my deck with tigerwood. Do I let it set over the winter and then prep and stain in the spring?[/quote]
Yes, that would be best.
I live in Iowa with harsh winters. I am replacing my deck with tigerwood. Do I let it set over the winter and then prep and stain in the spring?
[quote name=”Jane”]We live in Oregon and have new deck/porch railings plus a large pergola. They finished the work in mid-August. If we let the wood sit exposed for 2-4 months, it will be October or November when we can stain, which means lower temperatures and probably rain. Will that be a problem? Should we stain before temperatures drop and rain begins again?[/quote]
No. Best to wait until Spring.
We live in Oregon and have new deck/porch railings plus a large pergola. They finished the work in mid-August. If we let the wood sit exposed for 2-4 months, it will be October or November when we can stain, which means lower temperatures and probably rain. Will that be a problem? Should we stain before temperatures drop and rain begins again?
[quote name=”Justin Atkinson”]I live in Salt Lake City, Utah. Is there a dealer that I can buy AC from in my area? Also I just built my new deck out of redwood and cedar. How long should I wait until applying my first coat of sealer/stain?[/quote]
There are not any dealers there but we do ship there from this website. Takes about 3-4 days.
Wait 2-4 months to weather and prep first.
I live in Salt Lake City, Utah. Is there a dealer that I can buy AC from in my area? Also I just built my new deck out of redwood and cedar. How long should I wait until applying my first coat of sealer/stain?
[quote name=”Ronda”]Hello,
We have just had roof built over our patio they used cedar posts and trim and the ceiling is tongue and groove pine. Do you recommend waiting to have the wood stained on vertical and ceilings? What is the best way to take care of the wood? We are in Austin Texas and just had a lot of rain due to hurricane harvey and I am wanting to make sure that the wood is taken care of properly so that it will last a long time.[/quote]
Yes, wait and lightly prep before staining as the article states. Redo as needed every 3-4 years for the verticals. Ceiling could go as long at 5-8 years.
Hello,
We have just had roof built over our patio they used cedar posts and trim and the ceiling is tongue and groove pine. Do you recommend waiting to have the wood stained on vertical and ceilings? What is the best way to take care of the wood? We are in Austin Texas and just had a lot of rain due to hurricane harvey and I am wanting to make sure that the wood is taken care of properly so that it will last a long time.
[quote name=”steve d”]How about 30 yr wood?
which of your products would work/last best and be easiest to apply.
in my judgement the more oil in a semi transparent the better.
also, what are your thought about applying linseed oil?[/quote]
Use the AC in a semi-solid for this older wood. Make sure to prep by removing any old coatings first.
How about 30 yr wood?
which of your products would work/last best and be easiest to apply.
in my judgement the more oil in a semi transparent the better.
also, what are your thought about applying linseed oil?
[quote name=”Robert Dydo”]Hi there, I am reading the prep for the new deck, however, elsewhere cedar is being said to be stained as soon as possible.
I used the sample on some cuts I have and the surface is very greasy, this tells me that would is not dry, any suggestions for cedar?
thanks[/quote]
Cedar is not any different and needs to be weathered and prepped just as this article states.
Hi there, I am reading the prep for the new deck, however, elsewhere cedar is being said to be stained as soon as possible.
I used the sample on some cuts I have and the surface is very greasy, this tells me that would is not dry, any suggestions for cedar?
thanks
[quote name=”Richard K.”]Can oil stain be applied to the underside of pressure-treated (southern white pine) decking without issues? I wanted to provide some protection to the underside of the boards, including the existing, aged joists, prior to installation, as the decking has a southern exposure, and is subjected to relatively damp, 4-season weather in Ohio. Thank you.[/quote]
Yes, but you will need to stain after install, weather, and prep.
Can oil stain be applied to the underside of pressure-treated (southern white pine) decking without issues? I wanted to provide some protection to the underside of the boards, including the existing, aged joists, prior to installation, as the decking has a southern exposure, and is subjected to relatively damp, 4-season weather in Ohio. Thank you.