Armstrong Clark is a penetrating oil based stain that will soak deep into the wood grain offering protection from UV graying and water. The advantages to a penetrating deck stain is that they will not peel but rather fade over the years. The key though is proper prep before applying your AC especially if your wood is new.
New “smooth” wood should not be stained right away with Armstrong Clark. A few things need to happen first:
- The wood should dry out in the climate
- Exposed layers of wood cells should oxidize slightly
- Mill glaze needs to be removed
- Prep after waiting will remove both oxidation and mill glaze
New Decks and Armstrong Clark Stain Tips
The best advice is to not stain your new smooth wood too soon after install but follow these steps:
- Install wood and let sit outside for 3-4 months or more if using a transparent or semi-transparent color. If using a semi-solid color, you should wait 12 months.
- Once the wood has been exposed, use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep.
- Let the wood dry for 2 or more days after prep.
- Apply 1 coat of the Armstrong Clark Stain. Do not over apply.
To maintain your new coat of AC you will most likely need to a light coat in 12-24 months to just the floors or horizontals surfaces. In the future, you will need to reapply AC every 2-3 years for most scenarios or as needed based on your particular traffic and weather.
Important Note: Rough Sawn cut wood can be stained right after install as long as the wood is clean and dry.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-300 square feet per gallon for the first coat on new wood. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
If you have a question on prepping your need wood or deck, feel free to ask below.
[quote name=”Louise Vasiliades”]I live on Long Island in New York and had a new deck installed with pressure-treated lumber in March of this year. I would like to use your semi-transparent stain but I was advised to have the deck professionally sanded first if you could please confirm this is necessary? Thank you.[/quote]
You do not need to sand but use the prepping kit for the prep.
I live on Long Island in New York and had a new deck installed with pressure-treated lumber in March of this year. I would like to use your semi-transparent stain but I was advised to have the deck professionally sanded first if you could please confirm this is necessary? Thank you.
[quote name=”talktome”]I recently purchased Armstrong-Clark stain and Restore a Deck. The deck is 6 months old and ready for staining but, I am wanting to sand the deck before I stain. My question is would I use the Restore a Deck before sanding, wait for it to dry then sand the deck and then brush/compressed air to remove sanding particles and stain or sand the deck and then use the Restore a Deck wait for the deck to dry and then stain? I don’t know how the water after sanding the deck will affect the overall outcome. We use the deck a-lot and I don’t want to look at a finish disaster if I use the wrong process. Thanks for your help[/quote]
The best approach would be:
1. Use the Step 1 and pressure wash the deck.
2. Let dry and lightly sand.
3. Apply Brightener and rinse well when done.
4. Wait for 48hours to dry and stain.
Water does not affect the outcome after any sanding.
I recently purchased Armstrong-Clark stain and Restore a Deck. The deck is 6 months old and ready for staining but, I am wanting to sand the deck before I stain. My question is would I use the Restore a Deck before sanding, wait for it to dry then sand the deck and then brush/compressed air to remove sanding particles and stain or sand the deck and then use the Restore a Deck wait for the deck to dry and then stain? I don’t know how the water after sanding the deck will effect the overall outcome. We use the deck a-lot and I don’t want to look at a finish disaster if I use the wrong process. Thanks for your help
[quote name=”Maria St. John”]Which product should I use for cedar porch only railings and thick posts? Is it the same you use for decks?
I wish to keep the natural cedar color, but to protect the wood. I understand the less color the protection is lower.
To order a sample is a great idea.
Could you give me some advice?
How much maintenance will be require? I live in TN, it is humid and the porch gets sun in the morning. Thank you so much![/quote]
All vertical wood? You can use a transparent color on these. Clean and reapply every 2-3 years.
Which product should I use for cedar porch only railings and thick posts? Is it the same you use for decks?
I wish to keep the natural cedar color, but to protect the wood. I understand the less color the protection is lower.
To order a sample is a great idea.
Could you give me some advice?
How much maintenance will be require? I live in TN, it is humid and the porch gets sun in the morning. Thank you so much!
[quote name=”wvolvo”]I have a new cedar deck. I’ve read all the posts and only have one question: what color stain (semi-transparent I presume) on cedar will look like your cover website photo (Armstrong-Clark-Semi-Cedar-Stain.jpg) with the mountains in the background.[/quote]
That is Semi-Transparent Cedar on the deck with the mountains. Colors will vary though based on the age of the wood. We offer sample bottles for testing on your wood in the main menu.
I have a new cedar deck. I’ve read all the posts and only have one question: what color stain (semi-transparent I presume) on cedar will look like your cover website photo (Armstrong-Clark-Semi-Cedar-Stain.jpg) with the mountains in the background.
[quote name=”Maya”]What stain should we use to get the most natural look for redwood but with the best UV protection?[/quote]
Best to test sample colors here:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
What stain should we use to get the most natural look for redwood but with the best UV protection?
[quote name=”Maya”]We had a new redwood deck built in April – it is about 2 months old. I
The deck is exposed to sun most of the day and we have very wet winters (North California -Napa area). It rained a few times and the deck has now many black water spots underneath the roof line.
1. How to remove the black water stains?
2. How long should we wait before staining?
3. What is the most natural look stain for redwood?[/quote]
1. Clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
2. As the article states, wait 3 months.
3. Natural Tone.
We had a new redwood deck built in April – it is about 2 months old. I
The deck is exposed to sun most of the day and we have very wet winters (North California -Napa area). It rained a few times and the deck has now many black water spots underneath the roof line.
1. How to remove the black water stains?
2. How long should we wait before staining?
3. What is the most natural look stain for redwood?
[quote name=”Nick”]I will be installing a new Ipe deck. Can I prefinish prior to installation? The top surface was sanded at the mill. what prep do you recommend?[/quote]
No. The wood needs to weather and prep. Please read the article. Thanks
I will be installing a new Ipe deck. Can I prefinish prior to installation? The top surface was sanded at the mill. what prep do you recommend?
[quote name=”scott gelhar”]How do you take the mill glaze off cedar wood. Before staining?[/quote]
With the Restore A Deck Kit:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
How do you take the mill glaze off cedar wood. Before staining?
[quote name=”Thomas Hayes”]can you apply to sanded decks? I had Prolux on the decks (terrible) for about a year now and I just sanded the decks and I want to know if I can apply to freshly sanded decks? Thanks Tom[/quote]
Yes but final prep you should clean and brighten the wood. This will help the Armstrong to soak deeper into the wood grain.
can you apply to sanded decks? I had Prolux on the decks (terrible) for about a year now and I just sanded the decks and I want to know if I can apply to freshly sanded decks? Thanks Tom
[quote name=”Catherine Wiley”]My pressure-treated pine deck was installed in 2015. Has now weathered slightly and is ready for some kind of treatment. Wood has some slight mildew in shady areas. Can I use a light bleach/dish soap solution to prepare wood for staining, or must I use Restore A Deck and Brightner kit first?
Climate = cold Wisconsin winters and sunny summers. Can you recommend which AC stain I should use? And color suggestion? I don’t really want “color”, just something light colored with UV protection.
Thank you.
Catherine Wiley[/quote]
Best to prep with the RAD Kit for this. Try the Natural tint. There are no regulations that will force the AC to change to water based. Oil based stains are allowed in all states as long as they are VOC compliant.
Forgot to ask; AC is currently oil-based stain. What happens down the road, if you are forced to changed to water-based only stain? Would I have to strip the oil-based stain off before applying a water-based AC product?
My pressure-treated pine deck was installed in 2015. Has now weathered slightly and is ready for some kind of treatment. Wood has some slight mildew in shady areas. Can I use a light bleach/dish soap solution to prepare wood for staining, or must I use Restore A Deck and Brightner kit first?
Climate = cold Wisconsin winters and sunny summers. Can you recommend which AC stain I should use? And color suggestion? I don’t really want “color”, just something light colored with UV protection.
Thank you.
Catherine Wiley
[quote name=”Victoria”]We will be putting in a new deck this summer with pressure treated pine. We live in Minnesota, hot (85-100+ degrees) humid summers and cold(-20 degrees) harsh winters. What would you recommend for a semi-transparent stain/sealer? And when to do it? I don’t feel it could survive the winter untreated. Deck is in the sun most of the day.
Thank you[/quote]
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
any of our semi-trans colors will work.
We will be putting in a new deck this summer with pressure treated pine. We live in Minnesota, hot (85-100+ degrees) humid summers and cold(-20 degrees) harsh winters. What would you recommend for a semi-transparent stain/sealer? And when to do it? I don’t feel it could survive the winter untreated. Deck is in the sun most of the day.
Thank you
[quote name=”Jeff K”]We just replaced our pergola with a pressure treated wood one (I believe Fir). I planned on waiting to stain but we are installing a hot tub under it and some grape vines need to be put back on the pergola as well. It would be great if I could stain soon but I understand I need to let the wood weather. Is there any option for me or just simply wait and later work around the tub? Thanks,[/quote]
Best to wait.
We just replaced our pergola with a pressure treated wood one (I believe Fir). I planned on waiting to stain but we are installing a hot tub under it and some grape vines need to be put back on the pergola as well. It would be great if I could stain soon but I understand I need to let the wood weather. Is there any option for me or just simply wait and later work around the tub? Thanks,
[quote name=”jonlacey”]We just replaced all the top boards on our deck with new cedar boards. The deck is raised 6 1/2 foot off the ground so gets a lot of air movement under it. How long do I have to wait to clean, prep, and stain the deck. I just purchased the semi-transparent chestnut colored stain, thank you[/quote]
2-4 months as the article suggests.
We just replaced all the top boards on our deck with new cedar boards. The deck is raised 6 1/2 foot off the ground so gets a lot of air movement under it. How long do I have to wait to clean, prep, and stain the deck. I just purchased the semi-transparent chestnut colored stain, thank you
[quote name=”Deck Novice”]I plan on installing new KDAT decking. Can I begin the prep process right away once installed?[/quote]
For KDAT wood, wait about 2-4 weeks after install and then prep with the Restore A Deck Kit.
I plan on installing new KDAT decking. Can I begin the prep process right away once installed?
[quote name=”Alex G”]Want to buy the armstrong deck stain. I`m in Montreal. Is there a retailer in northern Vermont, New Hampshire or NY state where I can pick-it up ?[/quote]
Hello, there is not but we can ship to Canada directly or any address in the US.
Want to buy the armstrong deck stain. I`m in Montreal. Is there a retailer in northern Vermont, New Hampshire or NY state where I can pick-it up ?
[quote name=”svan”]We have a new pressure-treated (pine?) deck installed in Dec 2016. It has grayed and passes the water test (i.e.. pour 1 cup of water and it absorbs / does not bead up). The deck has eastern exposure and is right next to Chesapeake Bay – so sun, moisture, occasionally snow but mostly rain & humidity. There are also a lot of oak trees so leaves in the fall and ‘stringers’ in the spring. Questions 1) What is the best product to use Question 2) how many gallons are needed, The deck is 240 sq ft with no railings or spindles. Question 3) suggestion for color? The color of house is a light gray/green and patio furniture is a light gray/taupe. However, the living room with full glass doors is a honey oak so a suggestion was made to stain deck in similar color for an extended indoor/outdoor look.[/quote]
1. Use a semi-transparent color.
2. About 2 gallons. Just one coat.
3. Driftwood Gray.
We have a new pressure-treated (pine?) deck installed in Dec 2016. It has grayed and passes the water test (i.e.. pour 1 cup of water and it absorbs / does not bead up). The deck has eastern exposure and is right next to Chesapeake Bay – so sun, moisture, occasionally snow but mostly rain & humidity. There are also a lot of oak trees so leaves in the fall and ‘stringers’ in the spring. Questions 1) What is the best product to use Question 2) how many gallons are needed, The deck is 240 sq ft with no railings or spindles. Question 3) suggestion for color? The color of house is a light gray/green and patio furniture is a light gray/taupe. However, the living room with full glass doors is a honey oak so a suggestion was made to stain deck in similar color for an extended indoor/outdoor look.
[quote name=”BruceNairn”]We just replaced our pool deck boards which were 15 year old PT with western red cedar boards on April 22nd, 2017. We just purchased the RAD kit and AC semi-transparent cedar stain. How long should we wait to prep and stain/seal the new red cedar deck boards? Also it has rained every day since then is there any issue with the new boards being exposed and not sealed?[/quote]
Wait 3 months and prep. it is okay if it rains on the wood in the meantime.
We just replaced our pool deck boards which were 15 year old PT with western red cedar boards on April 22nd, 2017. We just purchased the RAD kit and AC semi-transparent cedar stain. How long should we wait to prep and stain/seal the new red cedar deck boards? Also it has rained every day since then is there any issue with the new boards being exposed and not sealed?
[quote name=”markkelly”]Hi I recently built a deck in Connecticut, 11/24/16, and it has a NW exposure and would like to treat the deck to keep the natural wood color we have now. It is a light pressure treated lumber. What do you advise[/quote]
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit. Stain with any color of the AC that you like. We offer samples for testing.
Hi I recently built a deck in Connecticut, 11/24/16, and it has a NW exposure and would like to treat the deck to keep the natural wood color we have now. It is a light pressure treated lumber. What do you advise
[quote name=”stampinvic”]Hi,
I have a new construction pressure treated wood deck (built in December 2016). Should I use soap and water to clean it, then power wash or should I use the Restore a Deck product? In your surface preparation for new wood, it says that a mixture of soap and water with mild scrubbing followed by a light power wash is sufficient. What type of soap do you recommend? Please provide your expert opinion. It is a large deck over 700 sq feet and I want the best results possible. I may also need help to figure out how much stain I should buy.
Thank you.[/quote]
Use the Restore A Deck Kit. One kit should be enough. As for the stain, just one coat. One of the 5 Gallons pails should cover the 700 Sw. feet.
Hi,
I have a new construction pressure treated wood deck (built in December 2016). Should I use soap and water to clean it, then power wash or should I use the Restore a Deck product? In your surface preparation for new wood, it says that a mixture of soap and water with mild scrubbing followed by a light power wash is sufficient. What type of soap do you recommend? Please provide your expert opinion. It is a large deck over 700 sq feet and I want the best results possible. I may also need help to figure out how much stain I should buy.
Thank you.
[quote name=”Randy Boyles”]we installed new deck treated pine last July and are ready to stain, having read your sight we will need to clean and brighten first and then stain. our deck size is 448 sq ft we would like a clear stain finish. what would you recommend we purchase for this job?[/quote]
The Restore A Deck Kit and the natrual tint. About 3-4 gallons.
we installed new deck treated pine last July and are ready to stain, having read your sight we will need to clean and brighten first and then stain. our deck size is 448 sq ft we would like a clear stain finish. what would you recommend we purchase for this job?
[quote name=”john marrelli”]I built a cedar fence in September and left it untreated over the winter (Southern Ontario Climate. Do I need to wait to stain it at this point? Do I need to use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep prior to staining?[/quote]
You are good to stain after you prep with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kit.
I built a cedar fence in September and left it untreated over the winter (Southern Ontario Climate. Do I need to wait to stain it at this point? Do I need to use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep prior to staining?
[quote name=”Lars Viskochil”]I am installing a new Mahogany deck. The wood was purchased 6 months ago and has been outside covered up. I would like to stain all sides of the wood before install. If I install first I will only be able to stain the top surface. What is your recommended process?[/quote]
No need to stain all sides, no advantage, and actually can be a disadvantage. Install, wait and prep is the correct way.
I am installing a new Mahogany deck. The wood was purchased 6 months ago and has been outside covered up. I would like to stain all sides of the wood before install. If I install first I will only be able to stain the top surface. What is your recommended process?
[quote name=”Amy”]We replaced our decking in August of 2016 and are now ready to stain it. I prefer the semi solid colors. Has my deck weathered enough to use a semi solid color now or do I have to wait for a full year. If I have to wait, what do you recommend I do in the meantime. Shouldn’t I treat it with something now. My deck is pressure treated pine that bakes in the full sun all day. I was hoping to protect it before summer hits.[/quote]
Semi-solids do have a lot more pigment. It may be needed to let the wood weather longer. Best to test first. Try a sample on the wood and make sure it soaks into the wood grain 100% and dries without any issue. Once it can do this, the wood is ready to accept the stain.
We replaced our decking in August of 2016 and are now ready to stain it. I prefer the semi solid colors. Has my deck weathered enough to use a semi solid color now or do I have to wait for a full year. If I have to wait, what do you recommend I do in the meantime. Shouldn’t I treat it with something now. My deck is pressure treated pine that bakes in the full sun all day. I was hoping to protect it before summer hits.
[quote name=”Kathleen Gremban”]Our 5 month old covered Trex deck has cedar wrapped posts, cedar beams and a tongue&groove cedar ceiling underneath the roof. I am planning on using your RAD kit and a clear stain for the posts and beams. Do you think it would be OK not to stain the cedar ceiling since it is protected from the weather? Seems like a difficult job. Thanks[/quote]
The ceiling will be okay if not stained.
Our 5 month old covered Trex deck has cedar wrapped posts, cedar beams and a tongue&groove cedar ceiling underneath the roof. I am planning on using your RAD kit and a clear stain for the posts and beams. Do you think it would be OK not to stain the cedar ceiling since it is protected from the weather? Seems like a difficult job. Thanks
[quote name=”Tom Ditzel”]I just purchased a home with a newly built covered treated deck. I live in NY so my deck is currently covered with snow. Will it be okay to stain my deck as soon as the warm weather hits or should I let it weather longer?[/quote]
It needs 3 months of weathering without being covered with snow the entire 3 months. The wood should also have a moisture content of 15% or less after the weathering and prep.