Armstrong Clark is a penetrating oil based stain that will soak deep into the wood grain offering protection from UV graying and water. The advantages to a penetrating deck stain is that they will not peel but rather fade over the years. The key though is proper prep before applying your AC especially if your wood is new.
New “smooth” wood should not be stained right away with Armstrong Clark. A few things need to happen first:
- The wood should dry out in the climate
- Exposed layers of wood cells should oxidize slightly
- Mill glaze needs to be removed
- Prep after waiting will remove both oxidation and mill glaze
New Decks and Armstrong Clark Stain Tips
The best advice is to not stain your new smooth wood too soon after install but follow these steps:
- Install wood and let sit outside for 3-4 months or more if using a transparent or semi-transparent color. If using a semi-solid color, you should wait 12 months.
- Once the wood has been exposed, use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep.
- Let the wood dry for 2 or more days after prep.
- Apply 1 coat of the Armstrong Clark Stain. Do not over apply.
To maintain your new coat of AC you will most likely need to a light coat in 12-24 months to just the floors or horizontals surfaces. In the future, you will need to reapply AC every 2-3 years for most scenarios or as needed based on your particular traffic and weather.
Important Note: Rough Sawn cut wood can be stained right after install as long as the wood is clean and dry.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-300 square feet per gallon for the first coat on new wood. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
If you have a question on prepping your need wood or deck, feel free to ask below.
I just purchased a home with a newly built covered treated deck. I live in NY so my deck is currently covered with snow. Will it be okay to stain my deck as soon as the warm weather hits or should I let it weather longer?
[quote name=”wispwater”]I’ve applied your woodland brown (1 coat) with natural on top (1 coat) following instructions exactly on new deck installed over a year ago. I’d really like to have a bit of satin sheen. Is there any way to achieve that? Could I add some Waterlox Tung oil on top alone or mixed with your finish?[/quote]
Armstrong cannot be top coated with a filming finish. Doing this would create many issues down the road such as peeling of the top coating, trapped moisture leading to rot, and severe mold issues if in a wet climate.
I’ve applied your woodland brown (1 coat) with natural on top (1 coat) following instructions exactly on new deck installed over a year ago. I’d really like to have a bit of satin sheen. Is there any way to achieve that? Could I add some Waterlox Tung oil on top alone or mixed with your finish?
[quote name=”Kelly Navarre”]We have an old 16 x 10 treated wood deck that I am going to use your stripper and ]semi solid stain on. Then I want to put a new railing of cedar and an older cedar fence that I want to match with your semi translucent stain. How should I proceed with your prep products and how long do I need to wait to stain the railing? Part of the fence is old and grey and part of it is about 8 months old. Any suggestions would really help. FYI the fence has never been treated with anything.[/quote]
See this about new wood:
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
We have an old 16 x 10 treated wood deck that I am going to use your stripper and ]semi solid stain on. Then I want to put a new railing of cedar and an older cedar fence that I want to match with your semi translucent stain. How should I proceed with your prep products and how long do I need to wait to stain the railing? Part of the fence is old and grey and part of it is about 8 months old. Any suggestions would really help. FYI the fence has never been treated with anything.
[quote name=”Darrell W”]Hello. I recently built a redwood deck at my property in the Sierra’s, at approximately 4100′ elevation. It does snow several feet during the winter, and I’m worried about damage occuring from the moisture. The deck was built completed about the end of August. Have I waited long enough to apply stain, or will it be ok to do in spring even after being rained and snowed upon?[/quote]
Since it needs at least 3 months of weathering, it would be best to wait until Spring to prep and stain. Rain and snow will not harm the wood.
Hello. I recently built a redwood deck at my property in the Sierra’s, at approximately 4100′ elevation. It does snow several feet during the winter, and I’m worried about damage occuring from the moisture. The deck was built completed about the end of August. Have I waited long enough to apply stain, or will it be ok to do in spring even after being rained and snowed upon?
[quote name=”SteveDemo”]I built a new cedar deck in mid-August of this year. Is 2 months long enough to let it dry out or should I just wait until the spring before staining it?[/quote]
It would be best to wait until Spring.
I built a new cedar deck in mid-August of this year. Is 2 months long enough to let it dry out or should I just wait until the spring before staining it?
[quote name=”Larry Chmiel”]When I see finished decks on the Internet the decking does not show any splitting or checking of the wood. I am building my deck now and won’t finish until late fall of this year. I live in Chicago.
I will be using kiln dried pressure treated wood.
How do I prevent the wood from splitting?
Should I just build the frame now and add the decking/stain next spring or add the decking now and let it weather over the winter.
I will be using your semi-transparent stain.
Thank You[/quote]
All deck wood will eventual split. This is normal and staining does not stop this. You will be fine to let it weather over the Winter.
[quote name=”LARRY Robert KLEVANS”]I have a mahogany deck at my seashore home that has never been treated with brightener, stain or anything. Occasionally, I power-wash. It is 12 years old. Would like to restore, if possible. What steps should be taken to revitalize and prevent further deterioration.
Thanks,
Larry[/quote]
Prep with our deck cleaner and wood brightener. Stain with the Amber or Mahogany colors after it dries for a few days.
I have a mahogany deck at my seashore home that has never been treated with brightener, stain or anything. Occasionally, I power-wash. It is 12 years old. Would like to restore, if possible. What steps should be taken to revitalize and prevent further deterioration.
Thanks,
Larry
When I see finished decks on the Internet the decking does not show any splitting or checking of the wood. I am building my deck now and won’t finish until late fall of this year. I live in Chicago.
I will be using kiln dried pressure treated wood.
How do I prevent the wood from splitting?
Should I just build the frame now and add the decking/stain next spring or add the decking now and let it weather over the winter.
I will be using your semi-transparent stain.
Thank You
[quote name=”RichardEugene”]A deck site which highly recommends your products stated that brand new decks should not be stained right away, with the the exception of red cedar. Do you agree?[/quote]
With AC stains, you still have to wait 2-3 months and prep first.
A deck site which highly recommends your products stated that brand new decks should not be stained right away, with the the exception of red cedar. Do you agree?
[quote name=”Bob Grasso”]Putting down ipe to replace old cedar. Bought Ipe Oil from the wood supplier. The product looks fab on the wood, at least thus far…one month. But boy does that oil stink! And the odor is not gone yet! I’ve read that your stain in mahogany would be good for my ipe. How is it on the nose?[/quote]
AC is oil based, but a curing oil so the smell dissipates within a few days.
Putting down ipe to replace old cedar. Bought Ipe Oil from the wood supplier. The product looks fab on the wood, at least thus far…one month. But boy does that oil stink! And the odor is not gone yet! I’ve read that your stain in mahogany would be good for my ipe. How is it on the nose?
[quote name=”MURRAY POST”]i just built a chaise lounge chair out of cedar. what product do you recommend i use to protect my project? i planed rough cedar, all parts were sanded to 220 before assembly with titebond III and s.s. screws[/quote]
It is sanded too smooth to stain now. Let it sit outside for a couple of months and then clean and brighten for prep. Once prepped use the AC in a transparent or semi-transparent color.
[quote name=”MURRAY POST”]i just built a chaise lounge chair out of cedar. what product do you recommend i use to protect my project? i planed rough cedar, all parts were sanded to 220 before assembly with titebond III and s.s. screws[/quote]
i live in south fl
i just built a chaise lounge chair out of cedar. what product do you recommend i use to protect my project? i planed rough cedar, all parts were sanded to 220 before assembly with titebond III and s.s. screws
[quote name=”DC”]I live in a Chicago suburb. I had a new cedar deck built between mid-June and mid-July. It took a few weeks as the carpenter could only work on Saturdays. I would like to use your semi-transparent stain. My stainer will be available in October. Based on what I’ve read, that should be an adequate waiting period. Do you agree, or should I wait till next Spring?[/quote]
Cleaning and applying one coat this Fall should be good.
I live in a Chicago suburb. I had a new cedar deck built between mid-June and mid-July. It took a few weeks as the carpenter could only work on Saturdays. I would like to use your semi-transparent stain. My stainer will be available in October. Based on what I’ve read, that should be an adequate waiting period. Do you agree, or should I wait till next Spring?
[quote name=”Rick Fals”]Installing pressure treated pine, kiln dried deck this coming week, in Charlotte NC… Do I need to wait 2 to 4 months before staining with your product?
Thanks[/quote]
For kiln dried wood, we would suggest 2-4 weeks and the prep. Just the one coat.
Installing pressure treated pine, kiln dried deck this coming week, in Charlotte NC… Do I need to wait 2 to 4 months before staining with your product?
Thanks
[quote name=”T. M.”]I just installed a 4 board fence. The running boards are pressure treated poplar and the posts are pressure treated pine. The poplar is rough cut. Should I wait minimum 2-3 months before I apply Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain? Also, do I need to prep using the cleaner and brightener or will light pressure washing suffice?
Thanks for the informative web site.[/quote]
If rough cut wood and dry, you can stain now without prep.
[quote name=”Will Daley”]Currently having a cedar deck built on the side of our house. It should be finished mid July. If we wait 3 months to cure it will be fall and too cold (we live in Montreal, Quebec). Should we wait till next spring or simply prep and stain after one month? Also, what colour would you recommend? We like the deck in its natural state and simply want to protect and nourish the wood, not change the colour. Many thanks.[/quote]
You should wait until next Spring. It is important to have tint in your stain. The color is what provides UV protection from graying. Natural is lightly tinted and will provide some UV protection, but not as much as a richer color like the semi-transparent.
I just installed a 4 board fence. The running boards are pressure treated poplar and the posts are pressure treated pine. The poplar is rough cut. Should I wait minimum 2-3 months before I apply Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain? Also, do I need to prep using the cleaner and brightener or will light pressure washing suffice?
Thanks for the informative web site.
Currently having a cedar deck built on the side of our house. It should be finished mid July. If we wait 3 months to cure it will be fall and too cold (we live in Montreal, Quebec). Should we wait till next spring or simply prep and stain after one month? Also, what colour would you recommend? We like the deck in its natural state and simply want to protect and nourish the wood, not change the colour. Many thanks.
[quote name=”Billmisc10@gmail.com”]We are restoring a 30+ year old deck, pressure treated wood. We’re flipping the deck boards because the underside is in better shape. The top side of deck, stairs, and railings received Thompson Water Seal 5 years ago but the deck has never received stain. Many boards were replaced last fall. Which of your products should I use for preparation?[/quote]
Use the our stain in the semi-trans or semi-solid colors.
We are restoring a 30+ year old deck, pressure treated wood. We’re flipping the deck boards because the underside is in better shape. The top side of deck, stairs, and railings received Thompson Water Seal 5 years ago but the deck has never received stain. Many boards were replaced last fall. Which of your products should I use for preparation?
[quote name=”John Kazmar”]I need to apply a semitransparent stain over a cedar fence that was installed in December 2015, do I really need to clean it, it looks good? It is approx 2600 sqft, how much will I need, for proper coverage?[/quote]
Is the wood rough cut or smooth like a deck board? If smooth, then yes you need to clean and brighten for the prep to remove the mill glaze. As for how much stain, you will need about 15-20 gallons.
I need to apply a semitransparent stain over a cedar fence that was installed in December 2015, do I really need to clean it, it looks good? It is approx 2600 sqft, how much will I need, for proper coverage?
[quote name=”Anthony M”]I installed a new redwood deck (heartwood) in late March and am preparing to stain. Location northern CA with direct sun all day (no arbor or shade on the wood). asking around with paint shops and contractors, general guidance has been to stain after the new wood has been in place for 4 weeks. reading on your site, you recommend 2-4 months. Having never installed a new deck before, I am concerned that constant sun will inflict damage if I wait too long. already, as the wood has settled and dried, some cracks have appeared and red hue has largely faded. Would you adjust the wait period recommendation based on my specific scenario? thanks[/quote]
No you still need to wait and prep accordingly.
I installed a new redwood deck (heartwood) in late March and am preparing to stain. Location northern CA with direct sun all day (no arbor or shade on the wood). asking around with paint shops and contractors, general guidance has been to stain after the new wood has been in place for 4 weeks. reading on your site, you recommend 2-4 months. Having never installed a new deck before, I am concerned that constant sun will inflict damage if I wait too long. already, as the wood has settled and dried, some cracks have appeared and red hue has largely faded. Would you adjust the wait period recommendation based on my specific scenario? thanks
[quote name=”Ray T”]I will be installing Coulson engineered vertical grain cedar siding on my house in Southern California. Mostly full sun. Its basically a dry product sawed into 4 mm cedar veneer and glued to plywood. It soaks up water readily. Can I use an AC semi-transparent stain as soon as finish the install?[/quote]
Yes as long as their is no “mill glaze” on the wood. Just one coat.
I will be installing Coulson engineered vertical grain cedar siding on my house in Southern California. Mostly full sun. Its basically a dry product sawed into 4 mm cedar veneer and glued to plywood. It soaks up water readily. Can I use an AC semi-transparent stain as soon as finish the install?
[quote name=”Dennis McSweeney”]I have a new “rough” redwood fence. Why do I need to wait? What is the downside of applying the stain now? I live in CA, if that matters.[/quote]
If the wood is dry and rough cut then you can skip the wait. Only prep if dirty or wood has oxidized and turned gray.
I have a new “rough” redwood fence. Why do I need to wait? What is the downside of applying the stain now? I live in CA, if that matters.
[quote name=”pamelawwallace@gmail.com”]I just completed installation of a western red cedar deck. The wood was purchased from a local dealer – under cover, but outdoors. It was stacked with shims in my yard for a month while framing etc. was completed. Now complete, my question is whether to pre-treat and stain now, wait a few weeks with uncertain temps (live in upstate NY), or wait until spring[/quote]
See this article:
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
You should wait until Spring.
I just completed installation of a western red cedar deck. The wood was purchased from a local dealer – under cover, but outdoors. It was stacked with shims in my yard for a month while framing etc. was completed. Now complete, my question is whether to pre-treat and stain now, wait a few weeks with uncertain temps (live in upstate NY), or wait until spring
[quote name=”Amanda”]I have a new western red cedar deck. Covered. Not kiln dried, but the sawmill had the wood for approx. 3 years before our installation. Installed for 2 weeks only. The wood is still a little rough after killing and my husband wants to sand the entire deck. We’re in Montreal, Quebec, Canada and winter is fast approaching. Can we sand? Can we apply stain now? Or should we wait for spring?[/quote]
Might be too hard to do now with the weather and it may not take. Prep with a cleaner and wood brightener and sand lightly only if needed.
I have a new western red cedar deck. Covered. Not kiln dried, but the sawmill had the wood for approx. 3 years before our installation. Installed for 2 weeks only. The wood is still a little rough after killing and my husband wants to sand the entire deck. We’re in Montreal, Quebec, Canada and winter is fast approaching. Can we sand? Can we apply stain now? Or should we wait for spring?
[quote name=”Char Wolff”]1) If installing a KILN DRIED western red cedar deck, do you still recommend waiting 2-4 months before prepping?
2) Would it be advisable to stain the underside and ends prior to installing, then wait the 2-4 months before prepping and staining the top?[/quote]
No need to stain the undersides or ends. With kiln dried you can stain sooner. Install and weather a few weeks. You will need to prep with the RAD Kit and just one coat of the stain.
1) If installing a KILN DRIED western red cedar deck, do you still recommend waiting 2-4 months before prepping?
2) Would it be advisable to stain the underside and ends prior to installing, then wait the 2-4 months before prepping and staining the top?
[quote name=”Mka”]I just installed a pressure treated wooden fence this week, and would like to use AC to protect it. Does it work on pressure treated fences? Is the drying wait time also 2-4 months? I live in Central Florida.
Thanks for your response,
Mka[/quote]
Yes you can use the AC on pressure treated wood. Is the fence wood smooth or rough sawn. If rough you can stain right away as long as the wood is dry. If smooth then you will need to wait 3 months and clean and brighten of the prep.
I just installed a pressure treated wooden fence this week, and would like to use AC to protect it. Does it work on pressure treated fences? Is the drying wait time also 2-4 months? I live in Central Florida.
Thanks for your response,
Mka
[quote name=”Karen Daniels”]I am going to buy the AC Hardwood Stain for my tigerwood deck and rails. Can I apply it to a deck of new clear pine and cedar posts after waiting 2-4 months? Am wondering about the penetration of the hardwood stain vs. the regular stain for pine and cedar.
Thanks,
Karen[/quote]
Yes you can apply it after prep and waiting 2-4 months. The penetration is the same.
I am going to buy the AC Hardwood Stain for my tigerwood deck and rails. Can I apply it to a deck of new clear pine and cedar posts after waiting 2-4 months? Am wondering about the penetration of the hardwood stain vs. the regular stain for pine and cedar.
Thanks,
Karen
[quote name=”james gagon”]I have a new covered redwood deck, it has weathered for 5 months, can I sand it all, clean it then stain it ? (just not sure about sanding and acceptance of stain)[/quote]
No need to sand. Just clean and brighten for the prep.
I have a new covered redwood deck, it has weathered for 5 months, can I sand it all, clean it then stain it ? (just not sure about sanding and acceptance of stain)