Choosing Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains will ensure lasting beauty and protection for all your exterior wood surfaces. Backed by five generations of experience in oil-based coatings and cutting edge technology, Armstrong Clark Wood Stains will not only meet your wood protection needs but far exceed them.
Determine the square footage area of the surface you plan to stain. On decks be sure not only to measure the floor but also railings, spindles, steps and all areas that you are planning to stain. Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stains will cover approximately 150-200 sq. ft. per gallon depending on age and wood porosity.
The Armstrong Clark Staining Instructions
Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many different colors and tones. Keep in mind that the actual color results can vary depending on the type, age, condition, and porosity of the wood. Color samples are available if needed.
Prior to using any of the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains it is important to prepare the wood surface properly so the stain will perform as expected. See the RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper products for properly cleaning the wood surface prior to staining.
Allow the wood surface to dry 1-2 days after it has been cleaned and prepped. Be sure no rain is expected on the day of staining and for 3-4 hours after application so the stain can cure properly.
To apply Armstrong Clark Deck Stain you can use a roller, brush, stain pad, or airless sprayer. Mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. Unlike other stains, Armstrong Deck Stain can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first application of stain penetrates within 30 minutes another coat can be applied for added protection.
If applying by sprayer, use a roller or brush to go over the sprayed areas for a more even appearance. After 24 hours use a dry rag to remove any remaining puddles or glossy areas.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is environmentally friendly and does not contain an offensive odor. It is easy to apply and very user-friendly. Enhancing the appearance of your deck and giving it lasting protection is the best investment you can make and Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains makes it easy.
Need Help with Materials Needed? Ask Below with your sq footage.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-250 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Hello, I have applied 1 coat of stain on new cedar after buffing with 80 grit. It rained about 18 hours after staining. Can I still apply a second coat or do I really need a second coat?? Thanks!
Hello, did you follow the directions for new wood? https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Only one coat after proper weathering and prep. Thanks
Living in the pacific north west one can not wait 3-4 months. When fall hits the wood for the most part will be wet. I waited 1 month and with, which had a substantial amount of sun and rain then sanded With 80 grit to remove any mill glaze left. Will this be an Issue?? Thanks
Yes, the stain will not soak in correctly. You have to wait and prep in the Spring. You cannot fast track weathering.
just used two part cleaner and brightener on my 3 year old cedar deck. Still need to sand as some old paint is still embedded in the knots. After sanding should I clean and brighten again? I have black walnut. What is the best method to apply? Pad, roller, brush? Thanks
Yes, clean and brighten again. Use a stain pad or brush. Do not use a roller.
How do I open the 5 gallon bucket of stain? I see the spout that comes up in the middle, but how do you mix and do I just cut the top of the spout to open, or?
Thank you.
You can pry open the tabs with a flat head screwdriver.
What are the repercussions of over applying the stain? I went heavy on my application. New Douglas Fir. It seems to have absorbed into the wood, and is now dry to the touch. It looks good. Just wondering, as the can says specifically NOT to over apply. How does one know if it is over applied? My application is also on a Pergola, so no foot traffic to be concerned for rub-off.
Thanks in advance.
Bert
Over applied means, it would not have dried correctly or absorbed fully into the wood. It would be shiny and sticky.
Perfect, just as I thought.
Bert
I just applied your amber stain to my new mahogany deck (looks amazing!) and I’m wondering how often I need to re-apply and what I need to do ore-wise before doing so. I want to take good care of it.
With mahogany wood, you should apply annually.
We have pine wood deck and we used the Mahogany color stain from Armstrong Clark.
Hi, we waited to get our deck dry for more than 48 hours and applied the 1st coat on Tuesday (9/10) and 2nd coat yesterday (9/11). We were done by 3 pm. Today morning (9/12) the stain felt slightly tacky when I walked on it. I wiped off all of small puddles. But it is supposed to rain today. Will it be ok? Or I need to prepare for more work after it dries off again? Thanks a lot for your help.
It will be fine with the rain.
Your product is awesome!
Natural Oak semi transparent
Looks great! What type of wood is this? I’m hoping for this look on my cedar gazebo.
My deck rails have some cracks/splits. I’d like to sand off the old paint and coat with AC stain (Driftwood, same as my deck). Will that protect the cracks?
AC does not fill cracks but it can help reduce the cracks from getting worse.
I finished cleaning my deck Monday night so was going to stain Thursday morning. They are now calling for rain Thursday. Should I stain the deck today(Wednesday) or wait until 48 hours after the rain?
thanks
You can do it today.
I was reading on line DIYs and experienced woodworker stating a cloth works best for applying stain. I bought a brush but now thinking I will use the cloths instead what is your recommendation.
No, do not use a cloth. Use a brush or stain pad.
I installed a new cedar deck in October last year. Waited until June this year to stain it. I power washed, then used restore a deck cleaner and brightener. I applied one coat of AC Rustic Brown Semitransparent. Below are my photos. Turned out super blotchy with grain not absorbing the stain and an orange/cedar color. Two questions: 1. did I do something wrong ie powerwashing or staining too early and 2. how soon can I re-stain to get a more even and darker appearance? Assuming of course this is not how Rustic Brown should have turned out. How would you fix it?
The random dark spot(s) is oxidation that was not removed fully during your prep and therefore stained darker. You would have to strip it off at this point and possibly even sand to remove this oxidation. The lighter color is the way it is supposed to look
There was zero oxidation. Wood was brighter and cleaner than I have ever seen wood. After further research I learned that RAD changed the instructions on their brightener to include a disclaimer to rinse for 30 minutes! I certainly didn’t do that as it would have flooded my basement. My packaging does not have this disclaimer. I assume the brightener may have reacted with the stain to separate some of the pigments. If that is the case do I still need to strip or just clean it next year and reapply?
All wood oxidizes afters sitting for many months like yours so yes, it is oxidation that was not removed fully and we have seen it before. It has nothng do to with rinsing the brightener or not and no, the brightener does not separate pigment. It is the grain of your wood causing the darker spots and the darker spots is where the oxidation as not removed. You would have to remove to get the wood even in porosity.
Got it. Thanks. I was confusing oxidation with graying. Appreciate your expertise.
I recently had my deck boards and railing replaced with treated wood. Total surface area I calculated around 815 sq ft. I was planning to stain and seal using a sprayer and wondered if this sprayer would qualify for your semi-transparent stains: REXBETI Ultimate-750 Paint Sprayer, 500 Watt High Power HVLP Home Electric Spray Gun.
It should but we have never tried this sprayer before. The AC will work well with airless and most powered sprayers but does not work well with pump sprayers.
Did one coat of semi-transparent Rustic Brown and it soaked in quite quickly in most places (dry in a few hours). Would you recommend a second coat? Or is it too late and will need to wait until next year?
Wait until Fall or Spring to add a second coat. Lightly clean off any dirt first.
How long after rain do we have to wait to stain??
48 hours.
Thank you and how long after staining before rain… just in case
12 hours.
We used Rad cleaner and brightener and the wood came up gorgeous. It rained a wee bit today, Thursday, can we start stain8g on saturday?
Yes.
Just finished doing one coat but need to order more stain. Arriving only a week. Will this be ok ?
Yes.
Hi, Have new #1 5/4 deck boards. Been 4 weeks since installation. Getting worried as the sun on the deck is incredibly hot. We line on the beach in North Carolina and days that are not really hot and humid are rare. Should I continue to hold off staining the deck until fall?
Yes: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
What is the solid content percentage of the semi-transparent stains?
My deck is 5-6 years old and previous owners applied a semi solid or solid Behr stain. I have removed it with a Behr stripper, pressure washer, and lots of power sanding. I am planning to use the semi-transparent rustic brown stain. Several questions:
1. I have already purchased the Behr cleaner/brightener that I am planning to use next – will this be an acceptable cleaner/brightener to neutralize the stripper and prep for the Armstrong stain?
2. Due to the trim detail on my railings, some of the previous solid stain is very difficult to remove. I understand that it is best to remove all previous stain before applying the semi-transparent but what will be the result if I am not able to? Just some splotchy spots where the stain is still there?
3. I am planning to apply with an airless sprayer – Should I plan to order/go through more stain?
1. No on the Behr prep. Best to return it.
2. It will not look good nor will it soak in and adhere.
3. If you spray, make sure to back brush to ensure an even application. About the same amount of stain.
My deck is very dry and hasn’t had anything on it in years. I’ve pressure washed it and brightened it. I bought a sample of your semi-solid stain and I loved it. The problem is it took forever to completely dry. After four days, I could still wipe off color with a paper towel. After about a week, the paper towels finally wiped clean. Is this normal? I know I followed all the instructions correctly and I didn’t apply the stain too thick. I only used one coat on the spot I tested. When it did dry, it looked really nice. Im sending a picture of the bare deck.
The semi-solids have a lot of pigment and the drying/curing can take time based on the wood age and the weather.
What should I use for a light cleaning between years that I restain?
Warm water with some dish soap.
I just installed a Tigerwood deck 2 1/2 weeks ago. I have just purchased the Armstrong Hardwood deck stain. Should I use a deck cleaner, and then a brightener with Oxalic Acid prior to staining? I have read different opinions stating that a deck brightener is not needed for new wood?
Yes, you will need to prep with a cleaner and a brightener. Use this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Thank you!
I have about 300′ of 6′ high cedar fence that is about 2 years old. Last fall, a coat of Thompson’s Waterproofer and Clear Wood Protector was put on the fence. This has kept the fence from graying so it still looks pretty good. I am ready to landscape in front of the fence but would like to stain the fence first with either a semi-transparent or semi-solid stain. Can any of Armstrong Clark stains go directly over the fence as is with reasonable results?
No, it needs to be prepped. The Thomsons has to come off so the AC stain can soak in: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Morning…
I will be re-staining my cedar deck soon with the Natural Oak semi transparent and I just want some advice on the process as we have some dry weather coming up. Currently I have the same Natural Oak product on the all cedar deck (it was originally stained two years ago).
So plan is to clean and brighten, let it dry for a couple days and then re-stain within the week. Correct? Missing anything?
I do have a moisture meter for the wood and wonder if you have any guidance on what that should be?
Many thanks and your products are fantastic!
The plan is correct. 15% or less.
Looks great!
Amber is a little lighter in color than the Cedar Semi.
Just finished the process of stripping, brightening, sanding, brightening and staining the deck. After the first brightening I needed to sand the deck because of fuzzies. I used 36 grit and then 60 grit. After the sanding I then brightened again with a slightly diluted solution. Very lucky to then have 2 days of sun and low humidity after the final brightening. Wood moisture was very low when started staining. Completed the staining this past Saturday and no rain yet.
The first photo was taken after all preparation and the second photo is after stain applied.
I used cedar semi-transparent. I’d like to know what is the difference between the cedar semi-transparent and the amber semi-transparent? Thank you.
Hello: our old deck soaked up 10 gallons of semi transparent rustic brown and we ran out of stain before we finished two coats on the horizontal surfaces (it would have soaked it right up if we’d had enough). Is it okay to apply the second coat a few days later (when the wood is dry again after a big rain)? It will still be within the two week window after stripping and brightening. Thanks.
Might want to leave as is for now and then do a light wash to remove dirt and a recoat in the Fall or the Spring.
Hello,
I have a year old redwood deck that I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper and prepped with Armstrong Clark cleaning then brightening using a power washer. My first attempt at power washing got most but not get all the gray out so I then put more cleaner on and scrubbed with a stiff bristle brush and then brightened again. Oh so beautiful. I’ve now read that 60 or 80 grit sandpaper is preferred for deck prep. I’m staining with Armstrong Clark transparent stain cedar tone. Will the 120 grit sandpaper hurt things or am I good?
Thanks for your help,
David
The 120 is too smooth and could hinder proper absorption. Did you use a power sander?
I used a belt sander because there were a lot of cracks and I didn’t want the little kids and cry baby adults to get splinters :) What happens if I try a first coat and it appears to soak in normally. Will the stain behave normally as it’s supposed to or is there part of the formula that doesn’t get soaked in? If it doesn’t soak in normally what will I see in comparison to a 60-80 grit sanding soak in? If it means power washing and then sanding with an 80 grit, it’s not a big deal.
You cannot unsand 120 grit to 80. The issue is that if it cannot soak in fully, it could have rub off.
Well, staining on Monday and I’ll keep you posted and I will pay special attention to see if there is any issue with rub off. This is my first deck project and am learning a lot. Thanks so much for the heads up. If there is anything else I can do to aid with full absorption please let me know. Thx.
If the stain does not fully soak in and still wet 24 hours later, wipe off the excess stain with rags. Saturate all oil rags in water when done and lay flat to dry outside.
The deck sucked in one coat of stain with complete absorption. So fortunately, my 120 grit mistake did not end badly and the deck is so beautiful. The attached pic was about 7 hours before I wiped it down and the stain was completely sucked in by that time so all I got on my rags was a little cedar color. Thanks so much for your help.
Looks great!
Also, I sanded first and power washed it twice then scrubbed thoroughly and briskly. I believe the scrubbing opened the pores up good as so much gunk was lifted from the wood.
Does this semi-solid espresso need a second coat?
No, just one coat. Looks great!
After 2 days of drying I have some boards that look like it could use a second coat. Would you recommend a second coat on the whole deck or just on these boards?
Do all.
We stained our new deck last summer. Installed the yellow cedar deck in October and we stained in July, the moisture reader said we were good after using the 2-part cleaner/brighter. It looked beautiful with the amber semi-transparent.
But look how dirty it got over the winter, the second pic is what it looked like after I pressure washed half of it today.
Should we do some cleaning treatment before we restrain this year?
is that just dirt? Is it mold or mildew?
Should we treat for that as well with something?
We live in Tacoma, WA so it’s very wet all winter long.
Any help is appreciated!
That is dirt. Best to clean and brighten again and then reapply.
Thanks!
Is there anything to be done to keep it from getting so dirty over the winter?
Also, someone advised me to stain it again in the fall….but most of your responses seem to indicate that this should get us through the year.
What’s your advice?
No need to do another coat in the Fall. The only way to keep it dirt fee would be to cover it somehow.
We live in astoria, oregon and are fighting the same issues as you with our cedar deck and fence.
We are trying armstrong clark product for the first time hoping for better results. Everyone I know with wood decks fights the same issues every year.
Want to flip over and reuse 5/4″ PT pine on 280 sf lake dock in NC. Use semi solid or solid, oil base, light brown/tan. Removed, sanded with 40 grit belt sander, cleaned with Velspar Deck Cleaner, let dry for 2-3 days. Work in garage or shaded area. Use 1/4″ x 4″ roller, back brush, wipe if necessary. Dock has furniture and step off pontoon boat which adds to wear and tear. Do 5 or 6 boards per day, no rush. Any suggestions-much appreciated. Photos show dock condition and after sanding.
No photos were attached. Make sure to apply one coat of the AC. Look at Mountain Cedar color.
Since you do not have an outlet in Ohio, I ordered online and have received the transparent cedar tone stain. In your instructions you mention we need to mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. When I buy paints from a nearby big box store, they use a machine which mixes the paint thoroughly. How should I mix the stain thoroughly at home?
Stir stick or paint mixer on your drill.
Yes, you would use a stir stick that you can get from a paint or big box store. The pigments in stains settle pretty quickly to the bottom of the can. So even if a store machine shakes the can for you, you still want to give it a good stir at home and before you pour more into your tray.
I will use AC transparent cedar tone when I stain the deck if it ever quits raining in the Northeast. I’m a “more is better type person” so, should I apply two coats instead of one on the horizontal face of the deck? Thanks.
More is not always better. Only apply as much as the wood will absorb.
thnx
My apologies, Restore-A-Deck, not Revive-A Deck
On 5/23 I applied the Revive-A-Deck to our deck that was completed August of last year. The Revive-A-Deck really did a good job of removing the weathering and the mill glaze on the deck boards. Two days later I applied the Deck Brightener which seemed to give the deck a softer or smooth feel. Two days after that my wife and I applied the Cedar Semi-Transparent Stain. We used a roller for the deck and brush & pads for the deck rails. About 30-35 hours after the stain was applied we started to get rain. My question is; Should the deck be beading water, like a car after a wax? I’m also wondering if I should apply another coat. The deck looks fantastic and the products are very easy to use.
No does not bead like a car wax as it breathes. No, do not apply another coat.
Thanks!
Have a seven year old ipe deck. They sanded it down to remove the old Sikkens coats and then applied the mahogany stain. They did not prep or use brightener and applied the stain with a rag, not a brush or stain pad. The result is kind of uneven and splotchy. Would a second coat help? Can I apply brightener over the first coat or does it need to be stripped first?
No, you cannot add a second coat at this time. You would have to strip and brighten.
Thanks. I guess we will just wait for next Spring to do a do-over.
Do you recommend a natural bristle brush or polyester?
Natural.
Hi – we just moved into our house that has a 15yo deck that hasn’t been stained for awhile. I bought a stain and a prep kit from you last year but when I got it out I see it is the stripper kit, not the cleaner kit. I want to start today…will this work okay for what I have or do I need to order the cleaner instead and wait for it to get here? Thanks!
Here are some pics
The Stripper is the right product for this deck.
Post a picture of the current condition.
I applied initial coat of semi-transparent stain on raw cedar dock planks a year ago. Looked great. I’d like to refresh it. What do you recommend?
Prep with this and then recoat: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Will do. Thanks.
I have been using the Armstrong Clark Stains for 6 years now & love this stuff. Currently prepping the deck for a new coat. I understand as with all stains like this, it feeds mold & mildew, it is what it is. I have 900 sq. feet to deal with & part of the deck is in the shade so I always have a problem in that area. I recently read about using “wet & forget” after the deck dries & plan on giving that a try this go around. Some where I read about adding a mildewcide to the A/C stain, but I can not find that reference again. I want to also give this a try this year. Do you have a ratio that I could use that would not compromise the structure of the stain?
There is already a lot of mildewcide in the AC. No need to add more nor would it help.
As I previously mentioned I have real issues with Mildew, etc. Since writing this I found the article that mentioned adding mildewcide into the stain. Now I am confused. This is an A/C article.
Best to ask them directly to confirm.
I am looking to switch a deck over from an Olympic stain that has not held up well over to your products. It is currently stained with a semitransparent dark brown stain that was water based. I’d like to change it (if possible) over to the oil version of your stain for added durability. Can this be done by cleaning only or would everything need to be stripped off first?
It has to be removed. Strip and possibly sanded off.
What about going on top of an already coated oil stain? Clean and apply or again, strip off and start over?
Strip off and start over: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
what size spray tip to used for oil stain application
Doesn’t matter.
I am getting ready to stain and was reading a post about back wiping. I am using a semi-solid and plan to apply with a pad and brush for the grooves. What is meant by “Back Wiping”?
Should I only wipe in one direction when applying?
Back wiping is more or less a term used when spraying the stain to ensure an even application. You will be okay since you are applying with a brush and stain pad. Apply with the wood grain.
Has anyone had experience with applying semi-transparent stain to a deck using a Shur-Line Deck pad? They sound like a pretty good application tool, but first hand knowledge is always best!
Yes, they work very well.
Hello. I stained my deck with Armstrong Clark in Sequoia (semi-solid) four years ago. It’s time to recoat as it’s faded substantially. I understand that I should wash the deck, then use brightener to prep the surface; is this sufficient, or should I strip the deck and recoat from scratch. Likewise, should I use Sequoia again, or is it possible to use a semi-transparent tint to let it fade/lighten naturally?
Thanks!
Marco
Bethlehem, PA
If you want to go with a semi-transparent you will need to strip and brighten for the prep:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
If you want to do the Sequoia semi-solid again, clean and brighten for the prep:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Hi. I stripped, sanded, conditioned, cleaned, and stained my redwood deck a year ago in AC rustic brown semi transparent. Really love the color. We seem to be getting more than normal stain transfer to our feet, socks, and shoes. How can we avoid stain transfer?
Sounds like it was not cured correctly or possibly you back wiped off the excess stain when it was drying? This would remove the curing oils and leave the non-drying oils. Might want to lightly wash the deck with the RAD Cleaner. Mix cleaner at half strength, apply, and lightly agitate with a soft bristle brush. Rinse well. Apply one very light coat. Do not back wipe and let it fully dry and cure in the stain.
Will do. Thank you for the response and advice!
I think we made the same mistake a few days ago when we stained our teak furniture. It it still feels tacky. Do we have to start all over?
I stained a couple of our cedar porches last year with A-C transparent stain in Natural. They looked lovely, but I underestimated the amount of sun exposure and the porches developed some greying. Is it possible to go over the natural transparent stain with A-C semi-transparent in Cedar after doing a thorough cleaning and brightening, or will I need to remove the transparent stain completely before applying the new stain?
Yes, you can go darker in color without the need for a full strip.
I’m planning to restrain an 8 year old 700sf redwood deck. I had previously used your semi-transparent stain, it was great but now considering the semi-solid. Is there any difference in ease of application between the semi-transparent and semi-solid? Not sure which to choose.
The apply the same. The semi-solid takes a little longer to cure. That is the main difference for the application.
I stained my deck two weeks ago with your semi transparent and realized I probably put it on a little too thin. Can I apply second coat now or just wait until next time?
It would be better to do this in the Spring. Light wash to remove any dirt first.