Choosing Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains will ensure lasting beauty and protection for all your exterior wood surfaces. Backed by five generations of experience in oil-based coatings and cutting edge technology, Armstrong Clark Wood Stains will not only meet your wood protection needs but far exceed them.
Determine the square footage area of the surface you plan to stain. On decks be sure not only to measure the floor but also railings, spindles, steps and all areas that you are planning to stain. Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stains will cover approximately 150-200 sq. ft. per gallon depending on age and wood porosity.
The Armstrong Clark Staining Instructions
Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many different colors and tones. Keep in mind that the actual color results can vary depending on the type, age, condition, and porosity of the wood. Color samples are available if needed.
Prior to using any of the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains it is important to prepare the wood surface properly so the stain will perform as expected. See the RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper products for properly cleaning the wood surface prior to staining.
Allow the wood surface to dry 1-2 days after it has been cleaned and prepped. Be sure no rain is expected on the day of staining and for 3-4 hours after application so the stain can cure properly.
To apply Armstrong Clark Deck Stain you can use a roller, brush, stain pad, or airless sprayer. Mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. Unlike other stains, Armstrong Deck Stain can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first application of stain penetrates within 30 minutes another coat can be applied for added protection.
If applying by sprayer, use a roller or brush to go over the sprayed areas for a more even appearance. After 24 hours use a dry rag to remove any remaining puddles or glossy areas.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is environmentally friendly and does not contain an offensive odor. It is easy to apply and very user-friendly. Enhancing the appearance of your deck and giving it lasting protection is the best investment you can make and Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains makes it easy.
Need Help with Materials Needed? Ask Below with your sq footage.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-250 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
After cleaning, brightening and staining, how long should I let it sit before moving deck furniture back on and using the deck? Is 24 hours enough time? It has been in the high 70’s and it feels dry to the touch. No stain comes up on a paper towel pressed against it.
Sorry clicked post before adding Picture, picture in this one.
I am refinishing my deck and have completely sanded and removed the old stain. The questions I have are :
1. I have replaced (9) 8 ft. boards with new wood, do I have to wait for these to weather? If so what will I need to do to the weathered decking?
2. If I choose not to wait for the new would to completely weather what will be the result.
Photo of prepped deck attached.
1. Yes, weather all and prep the deck with this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
2. The new wood will not take the stain well and will need to redo next year.
I built a yellow pine pt deck 8 months ago. The deck is in the sun most all of the day so Uv protection is a must. Is semi transparent adequate or should I go with the semi solid? I have black aluminum balusters so I like the look of the rustic brown. What do you recommend?
Go with the RB. See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Where can i buy your products in the montral area ?
Hello Peter, Armstrong is not sold in any stores in Canada. We can ship directly to you from our website.
I recently took delivery of a 5 gal. steel pail of Armstrong-Clark Wood Stain, closed with a steel, crimped-lug lid. I have now completed staining a deck, which turned out beautifully. However, the job required only about 2/3 of the pail. Correct me is I’m wrong, but It is my understand that the type of pail & lid used to ship your product is not resealable. I further understand that the product shelf life is limited (not to mention the obvious safety issues) with exposure to the air. That being the case, how should the remaining stain best be stored for future use. I’m proposing to transfer the remaining stain to sealable containers i.e new steel paint cans, or half-gal plastic twist-cap water bottles. Would either of these suffice? If so what may I expect in terms of self-life (don’t know if it matters but the shipping pail lid has already been open for 3 days). Depending on produce performance and my amature’s application of it, I’m hoping to not need to apply the remaining stain for a few years. Is this a reasonable expectation? Also, please comment on the storage environment. My winters are long and cold, so I’ll have to store what’s left in-doors. I presume there is no inherent concern in doing so provided, as with paint, lacquer and such, that all is kept well away from all sources of heat/ignition.
Thank you in advance for the kindness of a timely reply. Best regards
You can store in individual metal gallon cans where the lid can close 100%. It must also be stored where it cannot freeze. See here for more tips:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/shelf-life-of-armstrong-clark-stain
I just applied Your Rustic Brown Stain to my 4 year old pergola. I sanded it first (as per the rep at Kelly Moore) and then stained. No prep in between. (Still drying now)
Afterwards I came to your site to read more about what the reapplication instructions are when it eventually needs another coat, and I read about how the brightened should have been applied first.
Am I going to have a problem?
You should be fine but it may take longer to fully dry and cure.
Thanks! Looks great now!
I’m a bit confused about one thing, when it eventually needs to be restrained, what is the process?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
The deck is mahogany and test areas sanded up well. Do you still recommend brighter first? Photo shows 1 coat of Amber and mahogany. Two areas show condition of bare wood after sanding. Also sound like you do not recommend more than 2 coats, correct? Thanks Jon
Only 1 coat for new wood. We do not suggest sanding for prep but cleaning and brightening. Sanding can reduce the AC’s ability to soak in well. If you sand, do not use more than 80 grit and brighten after.
How soon can a second coat be applied?
Newly applied or applied last year? Makes a difference to the prep.
You can apply now id needed. Just make sure wood is clean. Alos do not over apply. More is not always better and could lead to overapplication issues.
newly applied
This deck is 2 years old. We are going to sand it. Do you recommend a Brightner before staining?
Yes.
After stripping and brightening with Restore a Deck products, applied Amber AC hardwood stain to mahogany tongue & grove covered but unscreened front, southern exposed porch at 55 degrees. Completed about 4 pm, temps dropped to 38 that night and about 48 the following day. That evening, now about 36 hours after staining but lower than desired temps. the temp dropped to 30 and snow layer on the porch for 2 days. It has now been 8 days since staining and we have not walked on or disturbed in any way. It looks great but when I wiped small area this morning I got a little bit of slightly brownish oily residue – very small amt but might cloth certainly not clean. We are expecting some warmer temps 50- high 60’s over the next couple of days and I plan to let it cute several more days before disturbing further. The porch was new 10 years ago and had been previously stained with penofin hardwood stain 3 x over the past 10 years. Any thoughts ? If it does not completely dry / cure will I need to strip again before reapplying?
It may not have cured correctly but you will not need to strip. Just wipe down the deck with mineral spirits to remove the excess stain that is on the surface. Saturate any oily rags in water and lay flat outside to dry.
I’m going to go ahead and wait a few more days with warmer temps and if residue continues, will wipe down with mineral spirits ( appropriately dispose of used wipes) and reapply a light coat – using combo of brush and pad. Correct? How long should I wait to reapply?? Thanks for your help. Barbara
Do not apply a light coat now. Wait at least a year.
Any other solutions.
After staining our four mahogony porches 10-20 days ago with amber stain for hardwood (4gallons/1100 sq ft) and wiping down two with mineral spirits we continue to get an oily brown residue when wiped with a cloth and a greasy feel under foot tracking oily reidue onto tile floor in house.
We wiped down by spraying lightly with mineral spirits from a spray bottle and wiping by hand or mop head wrapped in cloth frequently changed as it became saturated.
Our weather here in Piedmont Va. has been up and down – 28at night to 50-60 during the day. After today we will start a warming trend into spring 40’s at night, 50-70’s during the day.
Short of stripping and starting all over can you recommend any thing else to cut this oil. The floors continue to look beautiful even after mineral spirits.
barbara
I would suggest waiting until it warms up and see if that helps.
I live in Panama City Florida, where rain is unpredictable. How concerned should I be if I apply stain one day and it rains the very next day.
No issues if it rains the following day.
Can I just use a pump sprayer to apply to a cedar picket fence? I don’t care about an even appearance just want protect it from mold & mildew since the fence is in an out of the way heavily shaded moist area.
The AC is slightly too thick to be applied with an average grade pump sprayer. An airless sprayer or HVLP sprayer should work.
Would you recommend on cedar furniture? Will it produce lap marks if brushed on?
Use the Transparent Cedar or Semi-Transparent Cedar. It does not product lap marks when applied correctly.
So I ended up going with a .011 on an airless sprayer and backbrushing, applying your Red Tone stain on a new Redwood fence (waited two months, water content meter says 9-10%).
Fence looks great, but I am worried I didn’t use enough. Have about 1100 sqft of fence and I only used about 4-4.5 gallons. Based on your numbers 150-200 ft/gallon at minimum I should of used 5.5-7.33 gallons. Should I be worried?
No worries but you may need another light coat in a couple of years.
What is the recommended tip size for an airless sprayer with your transparent stains? I am generally seeing something between .011 and .013
Either of those sizes will work.
I have a 5 gal can of stain (semi-trans cedar) that was delivered ~ 2 weeks ago which I will be using this weekend to stain a fence. What is the best way to mix the stain thoroughly as instructed above? Thanks! Ray
Use a 5-gallon paint drill mixer. These are about $5 and can be found at local hardware stores.
Simple Q: What type of solvent should be used to clean the sprayer/brushes? Mineral spirits, turpentine, acetone?
Thanks!
Mineral spirits will work.
Hello,
How much time the stain (Mahogany) can be saved in original can after opening and potential using of about half of 5gl. Are there special instructions to preserve the remaining stain for future applications?
Thank you.
Open pails will last less than 12 months. You may be able to extend if you make sure that the lid is 100% sealed.
I had my 12 yr old redwoid decks cleaned, power washed, and lightly sanded, then one cost of semitransparent Armstrong oil stain was applied. Areas in the shade have still not completely dried. It has been almost a week. Can these areas be wiped with rags or does something else need to be done? At this point, we cannit walk on the deck. Thanks for any advice
Yes, you can wipe off the excess stain. Make sure to take any oily rags and saturate them in water when you are done.
[quote name=”Nina Speart”]I followed the directions and had my deck professionally cleaned and brightened 4 weeks ago. When I was rolling on the first coat it did not look as if it was soaking into the wood quickly and did look dark. Here and there I did roll over a 2nd time immediately. The deck was pretty beat up and had not been cleaned and stained for 8 years previous to this. Upon drying, areas definitely look light and friends have commented that it does not look like a deck that was just stained. The bannister areas are beautiful and areas where there was not a lot of foot traffic ,,,but the rest looks “thin” in color. Do I have to wait till next year in the spring to do it again, or can I apply a 2nd coat now? If I can do a 2nd coat now how would I lightly clean it since I would guess I would not power wash it again[/quote]
Best to add the cart in the Spring. Lightly wash for the prep.
[quote name=”Tom Shannon”]I am interested in using this product on a new deck I’m building constructed of eastern cedar STK 4S4 material (the structure is PT). One question, should I apply some sealer or stain to the bottom of the decking boards before installing them? If yes, what product do you recommend?[/quote]
See this about new wood:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
No need to stain the bottoms.
I am interested in using this product on a new deck I’m building constructed of eastern cedar STK 4S4 material (the structure is PT). One question, should I apply some sealer or stain to the bottom of the decking boards before installing them? If yes, what product do you recommend?
I followed the directions and had my deck professionally cleaned and brightened 4 weeks ago. When I was rolling on the first coat it did not look as if it was soaking into the wood quickly and did look dark. Here and there I did roll over a 2nd time immediately. The deck was pretty beat up and had not been cleaned and stained for 8 years previous to this. Upon drying, areas definitely look light and friends have commented that it does not look like a deck that was just stained. The bannister areas are beautiful and areas where there was not a lot of foot traffic ,,,but the rest looks “thin” in color. Do I have to wait till next year in the spring to do it again, or can I apply a 2nd coat now? If I can do a 2nd coat now how would I lightly clean it since I would guess I would not power wash it again
[quote name=”Shizuka”]After using the 2 step cleaning and brightening and thoroughly washing it off, we noticed some white residue on our new cedar deck (we let it weather for 3 months). We stained with semi transparent redwood and the next day it wasn’t fully dry but have noticed some fibrous residue that can be scrubbed off. Should we leave it to cure or wipe the whole deck with something?[/quote]
At this point it is best to leave it alone and let if fully cure.
After using the 2 step cleaning and brightening and thoroughly washing it off, we noticed some white residue on our new cedar deck (we let it weather for 3 months). We stained with semi transparent redwood and the next day it wasn’t fully dry but have noticed some fibrous residue that can be scrubbed off. Should we leave it to cure or wipe the whole deck with something?
[quote name=”Alan R”]Deck was in rough shape, first coat went on and soaked right into the wood quickly. It got dark right when finished with 1st coat. Is it too late to apply a second coat the next day? The 5 gallon container says, do not over apply – I’m not sure if that is what this refers to. Is a 2nd coat for a beat up deck suggested? I power washed, then sanded, then cleaned.[/quote]
Leave it alone and do not apply another coat this year. If needed, lightly clean in the spring and apply a light coat then.
Deck was in rough shape, first coat went on and soaked right into the wood quickly. It got dark right when finished with 1st coat. Is it too late to apply a second coat the next day? The 5 gallon container says, do not over apply – I’m not sure if that is what this refers to. Is a 2nd coat for a beat up deck suggested? I power washed, then sanded, then cleaned.
[quote name=”Guy Wixon”]Deck built in August. Don’t think I can wait too long to stain. Will sanding help speed up the prep of the wood? What grit?[/quote]
No. See this about new wood and prep:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Deck built in August. Don’t think I can wait too long to stain. Will sanding help speed up the prep of the wood? What grit?
[quote name=”Aaron Long”]Hello,
How much cleaning is required if I want to recoat and also do touchups within a few days of the first coat?
Aaron[/quote]
It is best to not apply another coat if the first coat has already cured. Best to wait until Spring. Clean and reapply then.
Hello,
How much cleaning is required if I want to recoat and also do touchups within a few days of the first coat?
Aaron
[quote name=”Gail Rankin”]The area of my deck is 384 sq ft including deck, facia,railings and posts. I will want to do 2 applications due to our Canadian winter. I assume I need 2 gallons for the first application, do I need to double that for 2 coats? Or just 1 more gallon because I only need to do 2 applications on the horizontal surface – 168 sq ft?[/quote]
If applying two coats, make sure the second coat goes on “wet on wet”. Meaning within 20-60 minutes of the first coat. Do the rails first. Apply first coat to the deck and then apply another coat 20 minutes later. 3 gallons should be enough for all.
The area of my deck is 384 sq ft including deck, facia,railings and posts. I will want to do 2 applications due to our Canadian winter. I assume I need 2 gallons for the first application, do I need to double that for 2 coats? Or just 1 more gallon because I only need to do 2 applications on the horizontal surface – 168 sq ft?
[quote name=”Tari stordahl”]What color stain is on the deck shown with the flower box and mountains in the background? Also type of wood. Would like to order sample.
Thanks.[/quote]
Semi-trans cedar on older pine wood that was prepped and brightened.
What color stain is on the deck shown with the flower box and mountains in the background? Also type of wood. Would like to order sample.
Thanks.
[quote name=”Mike lillard”]Can you apply to a mahogany porch ceiling? Or will it just drop all over the place?[/quote]
It will drip while applying but will dry. Yes, it can be applied to ceilings.
Can you apply to a mahogany porch ceiling? Or will it just drop all over the place?
[quote name=”Gil”]I noticed the website states a pump sprayer can be used but the 5 gal can (mahogany) says not to use a garden sprayer. Is a pump sprayer not recommended? Would I be better off renting an airless sprayer? My goal is an even coat and ability to easily get between boards.[/quote]
Airless sprayer is better and has a more consistent flow over a pump.
I noticed the website states a pump sprayer can be used but the 5 gal can (mahogany) says not to use a garden sprayer. Is a pump sprayer not recommended? Would I be better off renting an airless sprayer? My goal is an even coat and ability to easily get between boards.
[quote name=”Kris”]Questions-how long do I need to wait until I can put the stain for the first time on my deck? How often do I need to reapply the stain- every 2 years or more? We are in Chicago. Thx[/quote]
See this about new wood:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Questions-how long do I need to wait until I can put the stain for the first time on my deck? How often do I need to reapply the stain- every 2 years or more? We are in Chicago. Thx
[quote name=”D.Cardillo”]When a second coat is need , what is the recommended reapplication procedure?
Thanks[/quote]
Wet on wet. Appy the first coat and the second coat will need to be applied within 20-60 minutes of the first coat.
When a second coat is need , what is the recommended reapplication procedure?
Thanks
[quote name=”Wayne Michaelian”]I just recently purchased 3 color samples from you . Cedar, Natural Oak, and Chestnut. All of them are beautiful. We are leaning heavily on the Chestnut. My question is: How do I know if I need a second coat? When I applied the first coat on my test sample piece of wood, (which was also prepped with cleaner/brightener and allowed to dry for 5 days) the stain was still tacky after 30 mins. and dry to touch after an hour. Do you recommend a single coat or is the any added benefit to a second coat?[/quote]
Based on your sample application, we would suggest only the 1 coat for this. Seconds coats are typically only needed for dried out wood where the stain soak deep in right away.
I just recently purchased 3 color samples from you . Cedar, Natural Oak, and Chestnut. All of them are beautiful. We are leaning heavily on the Chestnut. My question is: How do I know if I need a second coat? When I applied the first coat on my test sample piece of wood, (which was also prepped with cleaner/brightener and allowed to dry for 5 days) the stain was still tacky after 30 mins. and dry to touch after an hour. Do you recommend a single coat or is the any added benefit to a second coat?
[quote name=”Dana”]Hello,
Any suggestions on how I might be able to get this off of a pair of shorts? I accidentally touched a wet stain pad to them and don’t want to wash them with other clothes in case it might transfer.
Thanks![/quote]
Sorry, but it will not come out of clothes. 🙁
Hello,
Any suggestions on how I might be able to get this off of a pair of shorts? I accidentally touched a wet stain pad to them and don’t want to wash them with other clothes in case it might transfer.
Thanks!
[quote name=”David Clayton”]Our siding was stained many many years ago using Olympic linseed oil based stain. I few now want to retain using AC stain, what prep is required?[/quote]
The Restore A Deck Stripper Kit:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Our siding was stained many many years ago using Olympic linseed oil based stain. I few now want to retain using AC stain, what prep is required?
[quote name=”Tom K.”]Hello. I used your rustic brown stain back in 2013. The verticals still hold the color and look great. However, as expected I need to re-do the horizontal areas. 2 questions. First, I only need to clean the area and apply a new coat. I do not need to power wash, correct? Second, if I still have stain which was left over and I resealed in 2013, will it take, as a new coat?
Thank you,
Tom[/quote]
For the prep, you use the Restore A Deck and pressure washing. As for the old stain, the shelf life is 12 months if opened. It is questionable if your 3-year-old stain is still good. Check for jellying large chunks. If you see either, it has gone bad.