Choosing Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains will ensure lasting beauty and protection for all your exterior wood surfaces. Backed by five generations of experience in oil-based coatings and cutting edge technology, Armstrong Clark Wood Stains will not only meet your wood protection needs but far exceed them.
Determine the square footage area of the surface you plan to stain. On decks be sure not only to measure the floor but also railings, spindles, steps and all areas that you are planning to stain. Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stains will cover approximately 150-200 sq. ft. per gallon depending on age and wood porosity.
The Armstrong Clark Staining Instructions
Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many different colors and tones. Keep in mind that the actual color results can vary depending on the type, age, condition, and porosity of the wood. Color samples are available if needed.
Prior to using any of the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains it is important to prepare the wood surface properly so the stain will perform as expected. See the RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper products for properly cleaning the wood surface prior to staining.
Allow the wood surface to dry 1-2 days after it has been cleaned and prepped. Be sure no rain is expected on the day of staining and for 3-4 hours after application so the stain can cure properly.
To apply Armstrong Clark Deck Stain you can use a roller, brush, stain pad, or airless sprayer. Mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. Unlike other stains, Armstrong Deck Stain can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first application of stain penetrates within 30 minutes another coat can be applied for added protection.
If applying by sprayer, use a roller or brush to go over the sprayed areas for a more even appearance. After 24 hours use a dry rag to remove any remaining puddles or glossy areas.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is environmentally friendly and does not contain an offensive odor. It is easy to apply and very user-friendly. Enhancing the appearance of your deck and giving it lasting protection is the best investment you can make and Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains makes it easy.
Need Help with Materials Needed? Ask Below with your sq footage.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-250 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Hello. I used your rustic brown stain back in 2013. The verticals still hold the color and look great. However, as expected I need to re-do the horizontal areas. 2 questions. First, I only need to clean the area and apply a new coat. I do not need to power wash, correct? Second, if I still have stain which was left over and I resealed in 2013, will it take, as a new coat?
Thank you,
Tom
[quote name=”Matt_D”]After applying Armstrong-Clark semi-solid a few weeks ago, we are happy with the stain but are noticing some residual coming off on both our feet and clothing from the deck surface. Buffing the surface with a dry cloth will easily pick up the stain.
Any tips on how to remove this residual?[/quote]
Try wiping down with rags and mineral spirits. Saturate any rags in water when done and lay flat to dry.
After applying Armstrong-Clark semi-solid a few weeks ago, we are happy with the stain but are noticing some residual coming off on both our feet and clothing from the deck surface. Buffing the surface with a dry cloth will easily pick up the stain.
Any tips on how to remove this residual?
[quote name=”RDF-PE”]Installed AC on 1100 sq ft ipe deck couple of weeks ago. Everything dried ok except under a covered area where it is still a little “sticky” and leaving footprints behind. I washed with water and still have mild stickiness and footprint. Should I lightly scrub with dish soap to remove this outer layer?[/quote]
Try wiping off the excess stain with rags and mineral spirits. Saturate all oil rags in water when done and lay them flat to dry.
Installed AC on 1100 sq ft ipe deck couple of weeks ago. Everything dried ok except under a covered area where it is still a little “sticky” and leaving footprints behind. I washed with water and still have mild stickiness and footprint. Should I lightly scrub with dish soap to remove this outer layer?
[quote name=”Andrew Lawrence”]does armstong clark offer a complimentary cedar deck stain “end cut” stain/sealer i.e. a wax or something that ADDS to the sealing / staining of exposed “End Cuts”?
Someone thought there was such a complimentary product that also filled preexisting minor cracks in the end cuts.[/quote]
Hello, AC does not make an end cut sealer nor is there a product that actually fills end cuts.
does armstong clark offer a complimentary cedar deck stain “end cut” stain/sealer i.e. a wax or something that ADDS to the sealing / staining of exposed “End Cuts”?
Someone thought there was such a complimentary product that also filled preexisting minor cracks in the end cuts.
[quote name=”Paul A”]Hi,
I stained my deck with your semitransparent last summer. This year I’ve noticed some fading around the knots and darkening, almost black in colour on a lot of the flat sections. Almost looks like the vertical retained the nice colour but the flats have this blackish darkening going on. I’d like to clean that off and apply a second coat on the flat surfaces.
What do you suggest insofar as an approach to this?[/quote]
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit to remove the dirt and grime that has caused this before reapplying.
Hi,
I stained my deck with your semitransparent last summer. This year I’ve noticed some fading around the knots and darkening, almost black in colour on a lot of the flat sections. Almost looks like the vertical retained the nice colour but the flats have this blackish darkening going on. I’d like to clean that off and apply a second coat on the flat surfaces.
What do you suggest insofar as an approach to this?
[quote name=”Lisa Pearson”]How long after staining can I put furniture, including an outdoor rug, back on my deck and resume normal use?[/quote]
Once fully dry and cured. Can take 8-24 hours for most scenarios but sometimes longer based on the age of wood and temperature.
How long after staining can I put furniture, including an outdoor rug, back on my deck and resume normal use?
[quote name=”Kevin T McFadden”]I just cleaned and brightened my cedar deck with RAD. I’m now waiting two days to dry and will then stain with A.C. Semi-transparent Cedar. The deck is four years old and I’ve stained it one time prior with A.C. Transparent cedar tone.
The deck is in Minnesota and is subject to a lot of sun in the summer.
My question is should I apply a second set coat during application or just apply one coat?[/quote]
One coat is normal but if the first coat is soaking in deep, a second wet on wet coat can be added. The key is you want to get as much stain into the wood grain without over applying.
I just cleaned and brightened my cedar deck with RAD. I’m now waiting two days to dry and will then stain with A.C. Semi-transparent Cedar. The deck is four years old and I’ve stained it one time prior with A.C. Transparent cedar tone.
The deck is in Minnesota and is subject to a lot of sun in the summer.
My question is should I apply a second set coat during application or just apply one coat?
[quote name=”Ruth Hill”]I have 5 pine doors that had Thompson’s Water Seal applied 25 years ago. They never looked good. They are blotched, and have uneven coloring. I would like to stain them to even out the color then seal them. In addition to the doors we also have cedar (rough side out) in the family room that needs to be sealed. Can your products be used.
The deck is next![/quote]
Armstrong is a stain and seal. Prep the doors with the Restore A Deck Kit, wait a few days to dry and apply the AC. You cannot apply a sealer on top. AC is an exterior product, so would not suggest for inside wood.
I have 5 pine doors that had Thompson’s Water Seal applied 25 years ago. They never looked good. They are blotched, and have uneven coloring. I would like to stain them to even out the color then seal them. In addition to the doors we also have cedar (rough side out) in the family room that needs to be sealed. Can your products be used.
The deck is next!
[quote name=”Bob P”]I have a white cedar that just went through its first winter. It used to have a lovely “yellow” cedar look. It is pretty much just whitish now. I would like to clean and prep and use one of your stains to finish it. I want to get the original cedar look back and see the grain so I dont want to use a solid color
What do you recommend?[/quote]
All of the AC colors will show the grain. I would suggest trying some samples to see what color works for you:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
I have a white cedar that just went through its first winter. It used to have a lovely “yellow” cedar look. It is pretty much just whitish now. I would like to clean and prep and use one of your stains to finish it. I want to get the original cedar look back and see the grain so I dont want to use a solid color
What do you recommend?
[quote name=”Terri S.”]I have a new cedar fence. How long do you recommend I wait before staining? Also, do you recommend one or two coats for a new fence (I live in the Dallas area so a lot of sun exposure and heat).[/quote]
Is the fence wood rough sawn cut or smooth wood?
I have a new cedar fence. How long do you recommend I wait before staining? Also, do you recommend one or two coats for a new fence (I live in the Dallas area so a lot of sun exposure and heat).
[quote name=”John Mitchell”]Completed first coat last evening on a 40 year old deck previously stained with your terrific product. This morning there are clearly areas where the stain soaked inconsistently. Is it too late to apply a second coat?[/quote]
It might not take if you apply another coat now. Try a test spot to see if it soaks after 30 minutes. If it does, you may be okay to apply another coat.
Completed first coat last evening on a 40 year old deck previously stained with your terrific product. This morning there are clearly areas where the stain soaked inconsistently. Is it too late to apply a second coat?
[quote name=”mandydean”]I will be staining my deck this weekend/early next week with AC semi-solid stain. The boards are very dry and the deck receives full sun, so I feel sure I want to apply two coats. I will be brushing it on. It’s a large deck and I’m sure I can’t do the whole deck in one stretch of time. Am I better off doing what I can in 30 minutes and then going back for a second coat on that same area, instead of risking that the deck will dry before I get the second coat on? I guess I’m wondering how long the window is for that second coat.[/quote]
Window is about 20-40 minutes with a wet on wet application. Do not over apply. The AC is a penetrating stain and the stain needs to soak completely into the wood grain. Applying too much stain to the point that it cannot soak in, could create drying issues.
I will be staining my deck this weekend/early next week with AC semi-solid stain. The boards are very dry and the deck receives full sun, so I feel sure I want to apply two coats. I will be brushing it on. It’s a large deck and I’m sure I can’t do the whole deck in one stretch of time. Am I better off doing what I can in 30 minutes and then going back for a second coat on that same area, instead of risking that the deck will dry before I get the second coat on? I guess I’m wondering how long the window is for that second coat.
[quote name=”drjwa1957″]I’m staining a new redwood deck in San Antonio Texas, receiving full sun. What is your recommendation?[/quote]
See this about new wood and decking:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
[quote name=”Kent”]The contractor that finished our deck power washed the deck and allowed it to dry. Then he applied (rolled)a very heavy coat of Cedar Tone transparent stain. He did not brush it or allow it to absorb and 60 minutes later rolled on a second heavy coat of Cedar Tone and again did not brush or wipe it. 5 days later there are still wet spots and orange residue. What should I do? Too late to wipe? What about the orange residue?[/quote]
You have excess oil that has not been able to soak into the wood. Try washing off the excess oil with a water rinse. It will not harm the stain the stain that has already soaked into the wood grain.
The contractor that finished our deck power washed the deck and allowed it to dry. Then he applied (rolled)a very heavy coat of Cedar Tone transparent stain. He did not brush it or allow it to absorb and 60 minutes later rolled on a second heavy coat of Cedar Tone and again did not brush or wipe it. 5 days later there are still wet spots and orange residue. What should I do? Too late to wipe? What about the orange residue?
[quote name=”Michael Harrison”]I have just finished a new cedar privacy fence with board over board with one side smooth and one side rough, metal poles, smooth cedar 2×4 top cap, and four smooth cedar 2×4 rails. I plan to wait 6-12 months before applying AC. What is the best approach to apply AC? Roll it? Spray it? I own a HVLP. I just need advice for applying because of the non flat surface due to design and the poles to work around. The fence is 6′ tall and 200′ long. Thanks.[/quote]
Spray and back brush to ensure an even application and to catch any drips/runs.
I have just finished a new cedar privacy fence with board over board with one side smooth and one side rough, metal poles, smooth cedar 2×4 top cap, and four smooth cedar 2×4 rails. I plan to wait 6-12 months before applying AC. What is the best approach to apply AC? Roll it? Spray it? I own a HVLP. I just need advice for applying because of the non flat surface due to design and the poles to work around. The fence is 6′ tall and 200′ long. Thanks.
[quote name=”karen vanek”]is there a minimum overnight temperature after application… (ie if we put it on at 50degrees …but the low that night is in the 30’s will that work… or what is the minimum in the first 24 hours? How long must it stay dry?[/quote]
It can drop below 50, but it should not drop below freezing overnight if the stain is still wet.
is there a minimum overnight temperature after application… (ie if we put it on at 50degrees …but the low that night is in the 30’s will that work… or what is the minimum in the first 24 hours? How long must it stay dry?
[quote name=”Jeremy JAM”]We have a new ipe deck, but we like your color stains other than the ipe mahogany and amber. Can we use the oxford brown or rustic brown stains on the ipe? Any issues/differences in approach from what you otherwise typically suggest if it is in fact okay to do so?[/quote]
We would not suggest the semi-solid Oxford Brown but you could use the semi-transparent Rustic Brown.
We have a new ipe deck, but we like your color stains other than the ipe mahogany and amber. Can we use the oxford brown or rustic brown stains on the ipe? Any issues/differences in approach from what you otherwise typically suggest if it is in fact okay to do so?
[quote name=”tjburns919″]What type of roller and brush do you recommend? (Nap size, roller material, bristle type)?[/quote]
We do not suggest rollers. Use an exterior stain pad or a brush for best application.
What type of roller and brush do you recommend? (Nap size, roller material, bristle type)?
[quote name=”RON BERNATH”]Hi,
Have used your stain on our deck and works really great, although this the 1st year.
I am using your stain on some wood lattice and because we are getting into fall weather needed some info on staining.
I have the panels inside a metal pole barn, so out of weather. It is not heated so the questions are as follows:
What would be the minimum temperature?
Is humidity a factor and if so what would be the maximum humidity affecting the stain?
Thank you,
Ron Bernath[/quote]
50 degrees in minimum temp. Humidity does not matter.
Hi,
Have used your stain on our deck and works really great, although this the 1st year.
I am using your stain on some wood lattice and because we are getting into fall weather needed some info on staining.
I have the panels inside a metal pole barn, so out of weather. It is not heated so the questions are as follows:
What would be the minimum temperature?
Is humidity a factor and if so what would be the maximum humidity affecting the stain?
Thank you,
Ron Bernath
[quote name=”Steve Demulling”]What temperature is best for applying and drying? Expecting high temperatures in the mid-50s next week.[/quote]
Above 50 degrees will work.
What temperature is best for applying and drying? Expecting high temperatures in the mid-50s next week.
[quote name=”Mary Skipworth”]I stained the deck a week ago and it has drank it up. Can I blow it off and add another coat this week?[/quote]
Not a good idea to do it now as it may not soak in after it started to cure. It would be better to do next Spring. Lightly rinse to remove any dirt and apply a very light coat.
I stained the deck a week ago and it has drank it up. Can I blow it off and add another coat this week?
[quote name=”Deb”]Are there minimum temperature requirements for applying Armstrong semi transparent deck stain?[/quote]
Do not apply below 45 F.
Are there minimum temperature requirements for applying Armstrong semi transparent deck stain?
[quote name=”Rose”]Hi! We used the Amber semi-transparent on our cedar deck 2 days ago. (Its looks great). What I’m noticing though is that where there are knots or cracks in the wood it appears as though it has drawn the stain right down and in those spots it looks much lighter. Is there any benefit in going back and applying a bit more to those areas? Or can it wait until next year’s coat. We live in the Pacific Northwest so lots of rain to come! 🙂 Thanks for your input.[/quote]
It is normal for knots to be lighter in color as the density of wood is different there. No need to try and touch up those areas now.
Hi! We used the Amber semi-transparent on our cedar deck 2 days ago. (Its looks great). What I’m noticing though is that where there are knots or cracks in the wood it appears as though it has drawn the stain right down and in those spots it looks much lighter. Is there any benefit in going back and applying a bit more to those areas? Or can it wait until next year’s coat. We live in the Pacific Northwest so lots of rain to come! 🙂 Thanks for your input.
[quote name=”va3pinner”]I just stained a pressure treated deck (In September). New wood, allowed to weather for 1 year. Cleaned with an oxy type cleaner. When I stained it, I made the mistake letting it sit for about 20 minutes, then wiping off what I thought was excess. On another area, I applied the stain, and did not wipe it off, and before 60 minutes, added another coat because the wood was soaking it up so well. The section with two coats looks much better than where I wiped the excess off. My question: Can I (two weeks later) add a second coat? Or do I need to wait until Spring? This is a great product, very easy to use with nice results, I should have paid more attention to the instructions and tips/tricks before starting. Thanks for the assistance.[/quote]
Wait until Spring. Lightly wash first and reapply a coat.
I just stained a pressure treated deck (In September). New wood, allowed to weather for 1 year. Cleaned with an oxy type cleaner. When I stained it, I made the mistake letting it sit for about 20 minutes, then wiping off what I thought was excess. On another area, I applied the stain, and did not wipe it off, and before 60 minutes, added another coat because the wood was soaking it up so well. The section with two coats looks much better than where I wiped the excess off. My question: Can I (two weeks later) add a second coat? Or do I need to wait until Spring? This is a great product, very easy to use with nice results, I should have paid more attention to the instructions and tips/tricks before starting. Thanks for the assistance.
[quote name=”LeEllen”]I stripped and brightened ipe deck with RAD and waiting my two days of dry weather to apply the AC mahogany stain. I see that if the first app penetrates within 30 minutes to apply another coat. If the second coat also penetrates within 30 minutes do I apply a third coat?
Thanks,
LeEllen[/quote]
No, do not apply a third coat. Over application can result in premature failure or drying issues.
I stripped and brightened ipe deck with RAD and waiting my two days of dry weather to apply the AC mahogany stain. I see that if the first app penetrates within 30 minutes to apply another coat. If the second coat also penetrates within 30 minutes do I apply a third coat?
Thanks,
LeEllen
[quote name=”Jackie H”]Is Armstrong Clark Mahogany Stain a semi-transparent or semi-solid?[/quote]
Semi-trans.
Is Armstrong Clark Mahogany Stain a semi-transparent or semi-solid?