Choosing Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains will ensure lasting beauty and protection for all your exterior wood surfaces. Backed by five generations of experience in oil-based coatings and cutting edge technology, Armstrong Clark Wood Stains will not only meet your wood protection needs but far exceed them.
Determine the square footage area of the surface you plan to stain. On decks be sure not only to measure the floor but also railings, spindles, steps and all areas that you are planning to stain. Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stains will cover approximately 150-200 sq. ft. per gallon depending on age and wood porosity.
The Armstrong Clark Staining Instructions
Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many different colors and tones. Keep in mind that the actual color results can vary depending on the type, age, condition, and porosity of the wood. Color samples are available if needed.
Prior to using any of the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains it is important to prepare the wood surface properly so the stain will perform as expected. See the RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper products for properly cleaning the wood surface prior to staining.
Allow the wood surface to dry 1-2 days after it has been cleaned and prepped. Be sure no rain is expected on the day of staining and for 3-4 hours after application so the stain can cure properly.
To apply Armstrong Clark Deck Stain you can use a roller, brush, stain pad, or airless sprayer. Mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. Unlike other stains, Armstrong Deck Stain can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first application of stain penetrates within 30 minutes another coat can be applied for added protection.
If applying by sprayer, use a roller or brush to go over the sprayed areas for a more even appearance. After 24 hours use a dry rag to remove any remaining puddles or glossy areas.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is environmentally friendly and does not contain an offensive odor. It is easy to apply and very user-friendly. Enhancing the appearance of your deck and giving it lasting protection is the best investment you can make and Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains makes it easy.
Need Help with Materials Needed? Ask Below with your sq footage.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-250 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
We have applied one coat of semi transparent rustic brown and it looks great. We are thinking to apply a 2nd coat but will not be able to do so for about a week. Will any prep be required other than simply brushing off the deck and making sure it is dry?
[quote name=”David Clayton”][quote name=”opwdecks”][quote name=”David Clayton”]Stain arrives today. The deck has been cleaned, brightened and dry for 3 days but the weather forcast is for rain on and off over the next week. How important is it to have dry days after staining? If I wait for a longer dry spell will I have to clean or brighten again? If it dies dry while applying the stain, can I use a tarp to cover the deck during periods of rain?[/quote]
It can rain on the AC within 4-6 hours after application.[/quote]
4 – 6 hours? That is good news but the instructions above say to make sure it is dry for several days after application.[/quote]
You will be fine per the owner of AC, Jake Clark. If worried, give it 8-12 hours.
[quote name=”opwdecks”][quote name=”David Clayton”]Stain arrives today. The deck has been cleaned, brightened and dry for 3 days but the weather forcast is for rain on and off over the next week. How important is it to have dry days after staining? If I wait for a longer dry spell will I have to clean or brighten again? If it dies dry while applying the stain, can I use a tarp to cover the deck during periods of rain?[/quote]
It can rain on the AC within 4-6 hours after application.[/quote]
4 – 6 hours? That is good news but the instructions above say to make sure it is dry for several days after application.
[quote name=”David Clayton”]Stain arrives today. The deck has been cleaned, brightened and dry for 3 days but the weather forcast is for rain on and off over the next week. How important is it to have dry days after staining? If I wait for a longer dry spell will I have to clean or brighten again? If it dies dry while applying the stain, can I use a tarp to cover the deck during periods of rain?[/quote]
It can rain on the AC within 4-6 hours after application.
Stain arrives today. The deck has been cleaned, brightened and dry for 3 days but the weather forcast is for rain on and off over the next week. How important is it to have dry days after staining? If I wait for a longer dry spell will I have to clean or brighten again? If it dies dry while applying the stain, can I use a tarp to cover the deck during periods of rain?
[quote name=”David Clayton”]Can we use AC stain on a new bamboo fence? If so, what prep would be required?[/quote]
No on bamboo
Can we use AC stain on a new bamboo fence? If so, what prep would be required?
[quote name=”Mark Midwest”]Hi, using a pad was incredible! It was fast easy and gave a great even finish. One caution, I ended up using a 3 inch brush to do the edges before using the pad. Deck is approx. 18 ft long. I would do three edges along the whole length, then come back and do the top with the pad. I alternated this al the way across the deck. (I was doing this at night under the lights. May have to adjust if doing in the hot sun.)
One other thing, after using the brightened, I ended up going the extra step of sanding the entire deck. It would have been ok without, but by sanding it came out so smooth. If you have the time I recommend it.
Finish looks gorgeous![/quote]
Thanks Mark!
Hi, using a pad was incredible! It was fast easy and gave a great even finish. One caution, I ended up using a 3 inch brush to do the edges before using the pad. Deck is approx. 18 ft long. I would do three edges along the whole length, then come back and do the top with the pad. I alternated this al the way across the deck. (I was doing this at night under the lights. May have to adjust if doing in the hot sun.)
One other thing, after using the brightened, I ended up going the extra step of sanding the entire deck. It would have been ok without, but by sanding it came out so smooth. If you have the time I recommend it.
Finish looks gorgeous!
[quote name=”David Clayton”]I read that AC stains may be used on hot days in full sun. We have a forecast for over 90 deg F. Is this ok? I am concerned about high rates of evaporation before the oils can soak in and possible difficulties in application to keep a wet edge[/quote]
Yes you can use it in full sun and in the heat.
[quote name=”Tanya”]What’s best to use for applying AC semi-transparent cedar stain – brush or pad? I don’t mind extra time or labor as long as I have the best result.[/quote]
Stain pads are best.
I read that AC stains may be used on hot days in full sun. We have a forecast for over 90 deg F. Is this ok? I am concerned about high rates of evaporation before the oils can soak in and possible difficulties in application to keep a wet edge
What’s best to use for applying AC semi-transparent cedar stain – brush or pad? I don’t mind extra time or labor as long as I have the best result.
[quote name=”wayne martin”]Deck is 20 yrs old. Was treated with Behr water based Semi Transparent 3-4 yrs ago. Have cleaned all areas, sanded some molded areas and added new wood planks where needed. Added new top railing. Can I apply your product over all the above?
800 sq ft deck with 1.5 x 1.5″ railing, about how much would I need to purchase?[/quote]
Only of all of the acrylic is removed. Need a total sq. footage including the floor, rails, steps, etc to give an idea on the amount.
Deck is 20 yrs old. Was treated with Behr water based Semi Transparent 3-4 yrs ago. Have cleaned all areas, sanded some molded areas and added new wood planks where needed. Added new top railing. Can I apply your product over all the above?
800 sq ft deck with 1.5 x 1.5″ railing, about how much would I need to purchase?
[quote name=”Tanya”]I’m bringing AC stain to Canada, and I want to buy some extra stain to use it next summer. Would it still be good next year, or is it better to buy only as much as needed right now?[/quote]
Yes you can store for a year if unopened.
I’m bringing AC stain to Canada, and I want to buy some extra stain to use it next summer. Would it still be good next year, or is it better to buy only as much as needed right now?
[quote name=”Mark Midwest”]Hi, all prep work has been done with Restore a deck products; now we’re getting rain, not sure how long it will last, maybe a couple of days.
1. Should I cover deck with a tarp? (It is already wet)
2. If rain goes on for a couple of days, will I need to rebrighten?
3. Once rain stops, still wait 2 days or should I allow more time?
I am putting the AC semi- solid Sequoia on 200 sq.ft.
4. What’s better, roll and brush out or pad?
Thanks[/quote]
Just leave alone and let dry. Rain does not affect anything. Once rain stops than wait 48 hours prior to staining. Use a stain pad.
Hi, all prep work has been done with Restore a deck products; now we’re getting rain, not sure how long it will last, maybe a couple of days.
1. Should I cover deck with a tarp? (It is already wet)
2. If rain goes on for a couple of days, will I need to rebrighten?
3. Once rain stops, still wait 2 days or should I allow more time?
I am putting the AC semi- solid Sequoia on 200 sq.ft.
4. What’s better, roll and brush out or pad?
Thanks
[quote name=”David Clayton”]We will use either a semi-transparent or a tone AC stain on our deck and are willing to reapply in 1 or two years if necessary. It has been a lot of work to strip the former stain, clean and brighten prior to application of a new stain and do not want to have to do all that again. What prep would be required to reapply each of these types in e.g. 1 years time? Will stripping be necessary or will a simple cleaning or brightening be enough?[/quote]
Just cleaning and brightening will be enough for reapplications in the future.
We will use either a semi-transparent or a tone AC stain on our deck and are willing to reapply in 1 or two years if necessary. It has been a lot of work to strip the former stain, clean and brighten prior to application of a new stain and do not want to have to do all that again. What prep would be required to reapply each of these types in e.g. 1 years time? Will stripping be necessary or will a simple cleaning or brightening be enough?
[quote name=”KENNETH PAYNE”]if i still have some deep prexisting stain will your stain cover where to buy Utica NY[/quote]
No AC is not a covering stain but penetrating. Best to remove as much as possible of the old stain.
if i still have some deep prexisting stain will your stain cover where to buy Utica NY
[quote name=”David Clayton”][quote name=”opwdecks”][quote name=”Tim Topor”]Two years ago I completely sanded my deck to remove the previous coating and coated with Sikkens Certol SRD Semi-Transparent alkyd/oil based stain. By the end of the first NYS winter the stain was failing and significantly more after this winter.
I have re-sanded all loose stain and it’s down to bare wood over 2/3 of the area or better.
Can I apply the Armstrong Clark semi-Transparent stain over areas where the existing stain is in good condition.[/quote]
No you should use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing to remove the rest of the stain and use the brightener when it is all gone for the prep.[/quote]
So in a situation like this, if you strip you can simply brighten and skip the cleaning step?[/quote]
Yes that is correct.
[quote name=”opwdecks”][quote name=”Tim Topor”]Two years ago I completely sanded my deck to remove the previous coating and coated with Sikkens Certol SRD Semi-Transparent alkyd/oil based stain. By the end of the first NYS winter the stain was failing and significantly more after this winter.
I have re-sanded all loose stain and it’s down to bare wood over 2/3 of the area or better.
Can I apply the Armstrong Clark semi-Transparent stain over areas where the existing stain is in good condition.[/quote]
No you should use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing to remove the rest of the stain and use the brightener when it is all gone for the prep.[/quote]
So in a situation like this, if you strip you can simply brighten and skip the cleaning step?
[quote name=”Tim Topor”]Two years ago I completely sanded my deck to remove the previous coating and coated with Sikkens Certol SRD Semi-Transparent alkyd/oil based stain. By the end of the first NYS winter the stain was failing and significantly more after this winter.
I have re-sanded all loose stain and it’s down to bare wood over 2/3 of the area or better.
Can I apply the Armstrong Clark semi-Transparent stain over areas where the existing stain is in good condition.[/quote]
No you should use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing to remove the rest of the stain and use the brightener when it is all gone for the prep.
Two years ago I completely sanded my deck to remove the previous coating and coated with Sikkens Certol SRD Semi-Transparent alkyd/oil based stain. By the end of the first NYS winter the stain was failing and significantly more after this winter.
I have re-sanded all loose stain and it’s down to bare wood over 2/3 of the area or better.
Can I apply the Armstrong Clark semi-Transparent stain over areas where the existing stain is in good condition.
More of a comment than a question.
I have often read of the importance of a good prep but today I had a very clear example. I had stripped, cleaned and brightened our deck with Behr products.
I took delivery of three AC sample stains : Natural, cedar tone and semi cedar. Testing on a sample the first two looked nothing like the swatches I see at the AC site. They were dark, heavy looking and high contrast between different types of grain. The semi transparent looked close to what we expected.
On a hunch I used the RAD cleaner and brightener on another sample of deck and tested the samples again, What a difference. They looked just as we saw on the web site.
To me this shows the value of good prep but also shows what crap is sold at big box stores. If they want us to prep well at least give us products that allow us to do that.
[quote name=”David Clayton”]I am prepping to apply semi transparent stain, perhaps a semi solid, to my deck which is 400 sq ft plus 4 steps, landing, bench and storage box which I suspect gives a total of about 600 sq ft.
I am leaning to using a pad but am considering the purchase of a sprayer. Is a sprayer used for garden chemicals appropriate or should it be specifically for stains? Also, would you recommend a power sprayer like the Wagner models?
If I also buy a brush should I buy a natural or synthetic bristle brush.
Thanks[/quote]
You can use any pump sprayer as long as it has a fan tip. Wagners will work as well. Pad applicators are best.
[quote name=”jeffryku”]One more thing…do you recommend a 2nd coat if it cannot be applied before it dries (days later)?
Thanks[/quote]
If you do the second coat make sure it it a very light application.
One more thing…do you recommend a 2nd coat if it cannot be applied before it dries (days later)?
Thanks
We have applied one coat of oil based stain (rustic brown) on part of the deck (large deck) and will need to apply a second coat but we are expecting rain tonight so we won’t be able to finish until next weekend. Will this affect us in applying a second coat?
I am prepping to apply semi transparent stain, perhaps a semi solid, to my deck which is 400 sq ft plus 4 steps, landing, bench and storage box which I suspect gives a total of about 600 sq ft.
I am leaning to using a pad but am considering the purchase of a sprayer. Is a sprayer used for garden chemicals appropriate or should it be specifically for stains? Also, would you recommend a power sprayer like the Wagner models?
If I also buy a brush should I buy a natural or synthetic bristle brush.
Thanks
[quote name=”Liviu Manescu”]Hi there!
Is it OK if I paint a first coat today and another one in a couple of days, provided it doesn’t rain in the mean time?
Thank you!
Liviu[/quote]
That would not be best. If you do two coats, apply it wet on wet.
Hi there!
Is it OK if I paint a first coat today and another one in a couple of days, provided it doesn’t rain in the mean time?
Thank you!
Liviu
Won’t the siding be likely to cup if it is not sealed on the back and sides?
[quote name=”opwdecks”][quote name=”rosenbrm”]#1: I am looking at using Sequoia on new cypress siding.
. . . see original post below . . .
1. Yes to remove the mill glaze
2. That’s because you need to let it sit outside for a month or longer than prep first. New wood should not be stained right away.
There is no need to do all sides. Install, let wood season for a month, prep lightly, than stain.[/quote]
[quote name=”Jordan Heep”]We recently purchased your product in amber because we were told it’d give our western red cedar the most natural look. After a couple of days, the deck is still a very UNnatural, bright orange color (nothing like your images of Amber stain seem to convey). I understand different woods produce different results, but after the restore-a-deck cleaning/brightening process, our deck was nearly white so I anticipated an even lighter color than the images on your site. Is there any hope that this color will dramatically fade in the short term,or should we just strip it & start over.
Thank you in advance for your input,
Jordan Heep[/quote]
It will fade in a month or two as the sun cures it and the oils penetrate deeper.
[quote name=”rosenbrm”]#1: I am looking at using Sequoia on new cypress siding. Is there any need to clean new kiln-dried siding with RAD before staining? Since it is already well dried I hate to put water on it to clean it.
#2: [i]First background: [/i]I have tried the sample on a piece of cypress and note that it did not fully penetrate within 30 minutes – particularly in the heartwood which contains more of its own natural oils.
[i]Now the questions: [/i]I have been planning on staining all sides before installing the siding. Should I do a second coat on the exposed sides on the ground or install, give it time to weather and then apply a second coat? I think we can do a better job on the ground than on a ladder. In either case how much time should be allowed between coats?
Any other recommendations are certainly welcome![/quote]
1. Yes to remove the mill glaze
2. That’s because you need to let it sit outside for a month or longer than prep first. New wood should not be stained right away.
There is no need to do all sides. Install, let wood season for a month, prep lightly, than stain.
We recently purchased your product in amber because we were told it’d give our western red cedar the most natural look. After a couple of days, the deck is still a very UNnatural, bright orange color (nothing like your images of Amber stain seem to convey). I understand different woods produce different results, but after the restore-a-deck cleaning/brightening process, our deck was nearly white so I anticipated an even lighter color than the images on your site. Is there any hope that this color will dramatically fade in the short term,or should we just strip it & start over.
Thank you in advance for your input,
Jordan Heep
#1: I am looking at using Sequoia on new cypress siding. Is there any need to clean new kiln-dried siding with RAD before staining? Since it is already well dried I hate to put water on it to clean it.
#2: [i]First background: [/i]I have tried the sample on a piece of cypress and note that it did not fully penetrate within 30 minutes – particularly in the heartwood which contains more of its own natural oils.
[i]Now the questions: [/i]I have been planning on staining all sides before installing the siding. Should I do a second coat on the exposed sides on the ground or install, give it time to weather and then apply a second coat? I think we can do a better job on the ground than on a ladder. In either case how much time should be allowed between coats?
Any other recommendations are certainly welcome!
[quote name=”Jim K”]I am staining a “new” PTP deck. It has aged about 8 months. The deck does not get a lot of sun. We want a lighter color with a definite brown look, not an orange color. Wanted to try a Rustic Brown sample but was also curious about the Mahogany. A little bit of a red shade might also look nice. I know it is recommended for hardwoods but is Mahogany a good option for PTP?[/quote]
Mahogany will look reddish orange on PTP.
I am staining a “new” PTP deck. It has aged about 8 months. The deck does not get a lot of sun. We want a lighter color with a definite brown look, not an orange color. Wanted to try a Rustic Brown sample but was also curious about the Mahogany. A little bit of a red shade might also look nice. I know it is recommended for hardwoods but is Mahogany a good option for PTP?
[quote name=”Sandra Davis”]Want to apply a second coat of semi-solid stain…any special prep instructions. Original coat was put on a new pine deck last year.
Thanks…great product![/quote]
Lightly clean with a deck stain and light pressure wash or scrubbing before applying the maintenance application.
Want to apply a second coat of semi-solid stain…any special prep instructions. Original coat was put on a new pine deck last year.
Thanks…great product!
[quote name=”Jack Bazemore”]I have several cedar posts in need of some finish. Will this product be suitable for vertical surfaces? What type of cleaner would you recommend prior to any finish?
Thanks[/quote]
Yes it works great for vertical cedar. Use the Restore A Deck Kit for the prep.
I have several cedar posts in need of some finish. Will this product be suitable for vertical surfaces? What type of cleaner would you recommend prior to any finish?
Thanks
Wendy, you can but there is not guarantee that an opened pail will last that long and still be good.
Hi. I need about 2 gallons of semi-cedar to do my deck. If I get 5 gal container, can I store the remainder in my basement (unfinished but does not get too cold in winter, maybe 50-55 degrees in winter) to redo deck in 1-2 years as needed? Thanks.
[quote name=”dennis blanton”]I have a Siberian larch deck that is about 2 yrs old. I have had duck back exotic wood oil stain on it and it is showing significant mold. The deck is west facing and gets tons of sun. What product do you recommend?[/quote]
Remove the Super Deck with the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener. Look at the AC in the Amber or the Mahogany for this wood type.
I have a Siberian larch deck that is about 2 yrs old. I have had duck back exotic wood oil stain on it and it is showing significant mold. The deck is west facing and gets tons of sun. What product do you recommend?