The most crucial step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to properly prep the surface before staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality-formulated wood coatings with five generations’ worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain products, the wood surface must be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed-out wood, we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
Armstrong Clark Prepping Instructions
For wood surfaces with old deck stains or sealers, we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple-to-follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product to adequately prep the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Step two of the system follows either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that counteracts the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and corrects the wood’s pH level, making it more acidic. This opens the wood’s pores and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready, following the prepping instructions, allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. You can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain with proper prepping. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
Have 4 yr old redwood deck that was previously stained with the Home Depot Behr Semi Transparent Stain about 3 years ago. Planning on sanding (to help remove stain and blemishes) and then need advice on what to do before applying your Semi Solid redwood Sequoia product – using RAD/pressure wash and how long to dry. Also what is best way to apply this stain. Thx, Brad
I noticed some threads of the wood surface started peeling back when we were using a stripper on the deck. Should we sand in that case? We already stripped and brightened.
No need.
My outdoor deck is redwood, installed over 35 years ago. My question: Can I use Armstrong Clark Stain on this deck if I sand off the paint on it (the paint is old too!)? I would like to obtain the natural look/finish again!
As long as you remove all of the paint, then yes.
That is part of the cedar knots.
I am about to re-stain my deck. The previous two coats were Armstrong Sierra Redwood semi-transparent stain. This third coat is the same stain. I plan to first use Wood Cleaner followed by deck brightener. How long do I have to wait in between rinsing off the cleaner and then applying the brightener? Can the deck still be wet from the cleaning when I apply the brightener, or does it have to be 100% dry?
Brighten as soon as you are done cleaning while the wood is wet.
My deck was stripped, and brightened and is now drying. In several days we will use the semi solid stain. How do you determine whether your deck needs to be sanded, and what grit sand paper should be used?
Do not sand. Just stain.
There are spots where there is still stain snd the grain seems roughed up. Sending photos. Will be using semi solid stain.
That is old stain that did not come off with the stripping. You should give it one more go with the stripper and then the brightener. Shoot for 95% removal or more. A little bit of old stain is okay as it will blend.
Stain still remains is spots and where a storage box was kept on deck.
I am about to clean and brighten my yellow cedar deck that was installed In August 2020. If it rains on the deck between prepping and staining, will that be a problem? Or, will it be okay if Allow two days of drying after the rain and before staining? Would it be better to wait for three or four consecutive dry days for prepping then staining? Thanks.
Rain does not harm the prep. Wait 48 hours after rain to let the wood dry before staining.
There seems to be conflicting information for new deck prep. Your website and your answers to questions states one should use the “Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner,” however, your brochure “General Instructions- Surface Preparation” section states to “wash with a mild scrubbing using a mixture of 1 qt. bleach, 3 qts, water, with a maximum of a 1/4 cup of liquid dish soap per gallon. Rinse thoroughly and/or light pressure wash.” Which is the preferred method. I have a redwood deck that was installed July 2020. Thank you
Best way is to prep with the RAD Cleaner and then the Brightener kit.
We have a 1 1/2 year old pressure treated deck and would like to stain it now with Armstrong Clark semi transparent wood stain. Do we have to clean AND brighten before staining? Thank you.
Yes, you have to prep.
Can I use dish soap and water to remove excess stain. If so how long after application
No, that will not remove excess stain.
We are working with an older cedar deck. Last year we stripped, cleaned, brightened (with “Restore”) and then stained with your “Natural Tone” stain.
We want to do a maintenance coat this year. There is one area on the deck that after being stained was under an outdoor carpet. This area has developed black spots (refer to the picture). The rest of the deck doesn’t have the spots.
1) How should we proceed? 2) Should we not have a carpet on the deck?
Looks like the rug being wet caused mildew under the carpet and on top of the stain. We would suggest not using it but if you do, try removing the rug after a rain and let it dry out before putting it back. This should help reduce this from happening. This year, clean and brighten for prep and then one coat of stain.
I cleaned/brightened my ipe (I think) deck and I have some areas with tannin bleed, do I need to rerinse and/or brighten and let dry again before staininf or will the stain spread out the tannins to make them not noticeable? I am staining with Armstrong-Clark Amber.
Try the brightener again but it looks more like water stains than tannin stains. They will still show when stained.
I stripped, brightened & applied one coat of A/C hardwood amber oil stain to my mahogany last June. the finish now “looks” like there isn’t any, and appears “dirty.” In June I plan to apply another coat. Prior to re-staining, should I use your deck cleaner AND re-brighten, or just the cleaner & power wash?
Use both cleaner and brightener.
I have a seven year old mahogany deck that needs refinishing, and the company I hired is willing to use your products but is not familiar with them. They propose to power wash the deck and sand to remove all the old stain (don’t know what the builder used, but it appears a solid red in the patches that haven’t weathered). Can they then move directly to applying your hardwood oil stain, or do they need to apply a prep product first? And their estimate includes applying two coats—is that appropriate, or should only one coat be used on mahogany? Thank you!
Just one coat for hardwoods. Use this kit after the sanding for final prep: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
I have a 4 year old ipe deck that I stained (twice) with Seal Once/C2 water-based stain. It failed miserably twice. Do I have to remove/strip the Seal Once prior to prepping and staining with Armstrong Clark stain for ipe decks?
Post some pictures for prep help.
This is my four year old ice deck that has been restored twice with Seal Once/C2 and failed in one season, twice.
Use the RAD Stripper with both additives and then brightener. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
My 4 year old pressure treated deck has received Natural Tone twice. Last year, following the container instructions we cleaned with a bleach solution then applied the second coat. this year we want to apply Natural Oak. What prep steps must we do
Use this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
I stripped, brightened, and applied one coat of cedar semi transparent AC stain this fall to my deck. The color is reading too orange for my liking. Can I try applying a darker color over the existing coat next spring, or should I strip, brighten and start over with a new color. Thanks!
You would need to strip and brighten for prep.
I used the restore a deck system to clean and brighten deck. Looked great, by the way. Then, our deck stayed too wet to stain and now it’s been raining off and on. Has been a week since cleaning. Looks like we may have 7 days of 65-70 deg weather. If I make sure there isn’t obvious dirt on deck, can I still stain in a week? Also, if I have till Spring, do I have to use the brightener again or just cleaner?
Yes, you can stain this week. If you wait until Spring, you would have to clean and brighten for prep.
Hello,
I have a tiger wood deck that is about 10 years old that has not had any maintenance for last 5 years or more. There was a lot of mildew so just finished power washing (tried scrubbing first). Pictures in shade and some sun attached. I am not sure if I should use your strip and brightener or cleaner and brightener now before staining. After this next step will I need to sand it before staining with mahogany. Thanks for your help.
Try the cleaner and the brightener. Sand only if needed.
I just replaced my old cedar deck with new 5/4 Cedar Board decking . Do I wait a year to stain it ?
See this for tips: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I am planning to stain our balcony. Do you recommend staining the underside as well?
No need.
The underside does get mold/mildew. How do we minimize that?
Staining the underside would not prevent mildew. Just clean it periodically.
Hello, I plan on using your transparent cedar stain on my IPE deck. I would like to stain the center plank in my stairways a darker color for safety purposes. See photo. Can you recommend a method of doing this? Thank you!
For IPE, you need one of the three hardwood colors: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
Make sure to prep well first. Use the Black Walnut for the darker board.
I stained my front porch with your mahogany stain last year, very happy. Am I correct that it is recommended to do maintenance coat each year, using the RAD cleaner as the prep? Thanks
Yes, correct.
We assumed we could use this to also
touch up our matching fence, which is coated in Cabot semi stain- there’s no way to completely strip and power wash this off the fence. what do you recommend? We now own $210 of your stain so we’re kind of stuck here.
You cannot apply the AC Over the Cabot so you will have to remove by sanding or stripping.
So we purchased this because it was oil based and our old kind was oil based, thinking we were doing the right thing for the fence. Do you take returns?
It actually does not matter if the same base. No matter what you have to remove if switching as no stain can be applied over a different brand and then expect that the new stain will be able to soak in and or adhere.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/refund
My deck has just a bit of cabot semi transparent stain on it. Most has been sanded off. Do we have to go thru the process of stripping also?
Yes, all has to come off.
Hi! I cleaned a bit of my very dirty (but no stain/sealant) deck with an OxiClean solution, but it just wasn’t cutting it, so I’m planning to clean the rest with Behr’s All-in-One Wood and Deck Cleaner. After the deck is fully dry, can I apply the Armstrong Clark stain, or do I need to apply something before? (I’m planning to use the Hardwood “Black Walnut” stain on my softwood deck.) Thanks!
Do not use the Behr for prep. Does not work well and actually damages the wood fibers. This while pressure washing is the correct prep: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Is this product only available online? I really don’t want to wait that long to start the process.
We sell online only.
have 25 year pressure treated deck with numerous behr solid stain with good luck until last application, deck had many blisters and peeling like rubber strip, tried stain removers and pressure washer but didn’t work, eventually and after 3 weeks removed 95% old stain with angle grinder using diamatra wood tools, have small amount on round part of spindles, again stripper and sanding won’t remove, can i try armstrong clark semi solid on floor and railings? totally disgusted with behr and working on reimbursement, but still would love to go with oil based? thanks
You would have to remove all to use the AC stains. They cannot be applied over a solid stain.
what would work, my spindles are rectangle then round back to rectangle, its the round part that is so hard to remove, spindles are about 4 inches apart making it difficult? thanks
None of the AC stains will work. You will either have to get it all off or use a solid stain.
Hi
I have a cedar barrel sauna that was originally coated with a competitor’s product which did not last a year! The sauna is in western Québec. I have now power washed and sanded the sauna to get as much of the old product off as I can. I estimate that there is less than 5% of the product remaining in small areas such as joint between front panel and the door. These areas have been impervious despite multiple washes. As a barrel, this is a surface that is both horizontal and vertical. Can I go ahead with the cleaner and brightener as is?
Photos are pre-wash and post-wash.
Thanks!
You can go ahead with the prep and stain now.
We have a mahogany deck in good shape. Every year I wash and stain the deck. Decided to give Armstrong a try. Washed and scrubbed deck with a deck cleaner. Let it dry and then applied stain. Screwed up by not seeing instruction to strip old stain. Wiped excess stain off 24 hours later. Taking long time to dry because I didn’t strip I assume. Am I okay until next summer?
As long as it dries you will be fine.
I have a professional company that seems to be willing to use Armstrong Clark stain for me, (they usually use Sherwin Williams Super Deck) but they are hesitant to use the RAD prep products. They would want to do a powerwash with the SW cleaner and sealer followed by the Revive. Would that work with the AC stain. Deck is 7 yrs old PT wood and only had one coat of transparent AC clear on it a year after built. I really like the driftwood color and the sample on it looks good!
As long as it cleans up correctly, it should be okay.
I have a large mahogany deck in good condition that I have stripped and brightened as instructed but it will be at least weeks before I can stain. Is that an issue and do I need to do
additional prep before staining?
Yes, lightly pressure wash again with the brightener.
I power washed and stripped my Ipe table and chairs last fall. Do I need to do any more prep now before I apply the Black Walnut stain? I have a big compressor, so I was going to use that to remove any dust or dirt on the wood. Also we have storms pop up from time to time. Will it be a problem if I stain and it rains within a day or two of application? Thanks
Clean and brighten for the prep. The stain can take rain about 8 hours after applying.
What is the best way to clean my cedar deck without having to restrain it afterwords. I’m not planning to restain until next year.
Just use warm water and some dish soap.
Hi there, I prepped and put one coat of Transparent Natural Tone on a 4 year old cedar deck. Mostly it looks good, but the area around knots seems to need another coat in most areas. These pics are taken 15 hours after first coat. Should I touch up those areas with more stain? Or does it looks like it needs a second coat everywhere?
That is normal for knots to be lighter in color as the density of the wood is different there. You cannot spot touch up. You can try another light coat to all but not sure if that will make it go away or not.
Ok thanks. I’m not overly sensitive about the knot areas. But your reply opens another question for me… is it visible to you that it could/should get a second light coat?
It looks good. It would be better to add another coat next year if needed.
We need help fixing a big ugly problem. We built a new 1,200 SF redwood deck over the span of about a year (ending around July 2019). Then we sanded the entire surface and applied two coats of AC Redwood Tone transparent stain (one coat each on two consecutive weekends). Each time we wiped off the excess stain with rags.
Come October or November we started to find black stuff on our bare feet or shoes, which has been tracked into the house and really made a mess of the carpet. Around January we scrubbed the entire deck with a little detergent and water and a stiff broom. Everything was clean at that time, but within a month it started turning black again.
We have obtained a Restore-A-Deck cleaner/brightener kit with the intention of cleaning and then re-staining the deck. Sure don’t want to end up where we started. Please HELP!
You did a couple of things incorrect originally. For new wood (and sanded wood) you are only supposed to apply one coat of the stain: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
You back wiped the excess right away. This is not good as it then removes the curing-drying oils before it dries and seals in the non-drying oils. This left your stain so that it can never properly cure correctly. When dirt from your environment falls on the deck, it will then “stick” to the non-drying oils and this would lead to your traction issue on shoes, etc.
At this point, you should clean all really well with the kit and pressure washing and apply one light coat to all. Do not back wipe right away. You can if needed 24 hours later.
Hello. I stripped and then brightened our cedar deck about 40 hours ago (with RAD products). I was told to wait 48 hours before staining, but it rained moderately last night. Do I need to wait another 48 hours after this rain before staining? Thanks!
Mark from St. Cloud, MN
Yes.
I have a mahogany deck with acrylic solid deck stain (Cabot) that is not holding up at all. I used your hardwood stain on my front porch deck, also mahogany and it looks terrific. I figure I need to sand off the old stain and apply yours. Is there another step involved? I have attached two photos of the back deck showing condition and also where I did a test sand spot. Also attached a picture of my front porch with your Amber hardwood stain ( wet with water, but you get the picture.). Love your product, would appreciate your advice for the back deck. Faces due south by the way, so the sun beats on it. We are in the Boston area.
Sand it all off and then use the Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener kits for the final prep.
The supporting pillars for our deck was cracking so my husband used adhesive to repair and then painted it using semi transparent stain from another brand without consulting me. I am not happy with the result. First, I understand from your instructions that I need to remove the stain before painting with your product. I think I will need a solid stain to cover the white adhesive but you only have semi solid stain. Will this cover the adhesive and achieve uniformity in appearance? 2nd, we painted our deck with your semi transparent stain in Cedar colour which we are happy with. What semi-solid stain colour would match that Cedar colour the best as we would like the deck to be the same colour? Thank you.
No, the AC stains will not cover this or stain or the filler. You will need a solid stain.
Is AC thinking of selling solid stains in the future?
No, they are not.
Living on the west side of Michigan, purchased a home that has a raised pressure treated pine deck, north side of home, built in 2004. Have no idea if it was previously treated. There was no color or treatment seen when we purchased in 2015. In the past 5 weeks I have removed mold and algae from all deck boards and rails. Hard work spraying and scrubbing with Mold Armor, followed by pressure wash. Have not sanded as yet.
The wood looks white now, not blackened. Because of the whiteness, is RAD cleaner necessary? I have applied sample coloring, awaiting others to be delivered. Appears to take stain very well. Just can’t decide on a color to complement our gray sided home. Have sampled Chestnut, Rustic Brown, and Natural Oak. Awaiting sample cans of ST Cedar, Trans Cedar Tone, and Trans Natural Tone.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Pictures?
Pictures taken 3 weeks ago.
Your prep looks good.
Thanks. I ordered the last 3 sample cans on 6/1. Have not received a shipping date as yet.
Do you recommend sanding with the 80 grit prior to staining?
No need to sand.
Thanks. Can’t wait to get started once we choose a color
My wife and I have chosen the Trans. Nat Tone for our stain. It’s been a while (two weeks) since I last did anything to the deck. My plan is to give it another power wash, dry 48 hours, and use one coat. Does that seem prudent? The deck just has some bird droppings on it.
Yes, correct.
Ordering 6 gal. of Trans Natural Tone. Best applicator?
Was contemplating stain/paint glove for balusters. Too heavy for decking application?
Use deck stain pads or brushes. Those stain gloves can be messy.
Thanks
I have a 200 foot cedar fence that was stained a number of years ago with transparent stain. It has weathered a lot but there are still areas of brown stain on the wood and others with no evidence of residual stain. I want to use an oil based semi-solid Armstrong stain on it. The green algae spots have been removed with a cleaner on the entire fence. Do I strip next, or will the semi-solid stain work over what is there.
Could you post a picture here?
best and worse
Strip and brighten: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
I am about to sand, wash, brighten and then stain some Western red cedar wood wrapped around an outdoor kitchen area. When in the process should the final sanding be completed before straining?
Between stripping and brightening.
Thanks for the quick reply! So, I’m assuming since I am not stripping any existing stain, I’m going to perform the following steps?
STEP 1: Sand with 80 grit sandpaper to smooth (which is also removing the natural graying over the past 9 months)
STEP 2: Clean/wash cedar boards with RAD
STEP 3: Sand with 150 grit sandpaper
STEP 4: Brighten cedar boards with RAD
StEP 5: Stain
Clean first to remove the gray, lightly sand after with 60-80 grit max, then brighten.
Is there a particular sandpaper grit that should be used if sanding is needed? Does the grit matter if it’s new, replacement wood as opposed to wood on an existing deck?
60-80 grit. New or older does not matter.
Hi! I have a 10 year old screened in porch with a mahogany floor. It has not had anything done to the wood in over 6 years and I have no idea what type of stain was used in the past. What do you suggest as my process to revitalize the floor? Does it need to be sanded before staining?
Or should I just use your RAD Wood cleaner and stain remover, don’t sand and then apply the stain? See photo.
Normally you would strip this but you have no way of washing it out so you will have to sand it.
Thank you! One last question, after sanding do you recommend applying a pre-stain wood conditioner and if so which one?
No need.
When applying cleaner should wood be wet or dry? Had planned on power washing any loose dirt off of fence before applying the cleaner, would that be ok?
Yes, no issues if the wood is wet.
Hi,
I just finished cleaning my 20yr old cedar deck with RAD stripper and brightener. While it worked well to remove old stain and gray fibers, it also pulled the grain to the surface creating a furry appearance, especially on the spindles and hand rails. Is it required/recommended to remove the fur prior to staining? If so, how would you recommend that be done?
Thanks from MN
No, you do not have to remove this. if you want, you would buff it off with a floor buffer and a sanding pad.
Hello. This photo shows new section of fence on the left and old (2.5 years) on the right. *Both* sections were stained with AC Sierra Redwood. They don’t match I think because my contractor did not follow recommendations here when staining the old section (stained a few days after install, no prepping). The new section I waited and followed instructions with RAD cleaner and brightener.
I am ready to re-stain the old section. What steps should I follow? Can I use RAD cleaner and brightener, or do I need to use the stripper product? Thanks!
Strip and brighten all.
OK, thanks. When you say “all” do you mean the new section, too? I don’t plan to re-stain the new side. If the re-stained doesn’t match the left side, I’ll just let it be.
The best way to get it to blend is to redo all but up to you.
Hi. I’ve a wrap around mahogany porch. In good shape but looking to revitalize. There’s a dark brown/ walnut color I assume is transparent stain. It’s wearing in couple spots but still in tact.
1- So… how do I know for sure it’s not solid stain bc that requires sanding, correct?
2- And assuming its regular transp stain ..to prep for finish I’ll need stain remOver then brightener?
tks very much
Send pictures.
Will soon. I’ll take a couple.. entire porch then I have a 4×4 square I cut for side stair post install. I’ll send underside and top to see difference.
Pictures of the porch
Strip and then brighten for prep.
Ok. Just 2 more questions and I’ll get out of your stain!
1- So I assume that means it’s transparent stain on it?
2- why is stripping w chemicals better than sanding for hardwood?
3- is the final result (after brightened/oil)the same or better then w sanding?
Tks very much for you responses and pro opinion!
1. Semi-transparent.
2. Easier and leaves the wood more porous.
3. Same.
I have a brand new Redwood swingset that had a “water based stain” applied by the swingset manufacturer.
I asked them what brand of stain they used, and they did not know, but they did confirm it was water based.
I would describe the application of that water based stain as “splash and dash”…that is, some corners playset structure have very little, if no, stain.
The structure if extremely clean (new).
What cleaner/stripper product(s)/process do you recommend before I apply your AC semi-transparent redwood stain?
Post a pictue of the swingset.
I have prepared deck. My plan is to apply wet on wet. Can I walk on applied stain?
The first coat, yes, but not the second coat.
I read on the Armstrong site that you did not have to buy a RAD cleaner, you could use bleach and water thus saving time and money.. is that in fact truth?
We do not suggest this on our site as bleach is bad for wood and breaks down the lignin. This is a known issue.