The most crucial step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to properly prep the surface before staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality-formulated wood coatings with five generations’ worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain products, the wood surface must be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed-out wood, we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
Armstrong Clark Prepping Instructions
For wood surfaces with old deck stains or sealers, we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple-to-follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product to adequately prep the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Step two of the system follows either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that counteracts the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and corrects the wood’s pH level, making it more acidic. This opens the wood’s pores and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready, following the prepping instructions, allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. You can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain with proper prepping. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
Do you have to power wash it before the cleaner/ brightener? After the cleaner brightener?
You pressure wash while using the Cleaner and Brightener.
How quickly after stripping and brightening should I apply stain? I’m trying to figure out how much time I would have between dry time plus any upcoming rain.
Stain 48 hours after prep and within 2 weeks.
I’m planning to stain some Western red cedar wood wrapped around an outdoor kitchen area. I purchased your Driftwood gray color and the RAD cleaner. The cedar planks have been installed over a period of 6 months, so it’s been exposed to the elements between 3-9 months. I was just planning to clean the wood before staining. Do I also need to use the RAD Brightener before staining?
Forgot to mention that all the wood is still natural/unfinished without any stain applied
Yes.
Here’s what it looks like right now !
It is fine to stain.
Here’s what it looks like right now!
I have a huge terrasse (IPE wood) to stain using your oil (for a second year). I cleaned it with pressure washer and only water for now since I’m in Canada and I cannot import your products… what should I do to make sure the PH is neutral before I apply the stain?
I import them all the time. I use Crossborderpickups and they bring it in for me. 5 Gallon pails.
I couldn’t import because of the COVID… but now it’s fine 🙂 Thanks for your reply though !
Hello Armstrong Representatives,
Need your help . I live in CA close to the coast and have a 4 year old IPE deck with bench area that I’m intending to restore and stain in the near future. The deck was stained with Penofin Transparent Natural sealer right after installment back in 2016 Please see attached photo). My deck and bench area – which have grayed over the years – are around 430 sq. ft. (Please see attached photo). I would like to use the RAD (cleaner and brightener) to prep my deck and bench area for staining with one of Armstrong’s oil based stains designed for IPE decks. I have 2 questions: (1) in looking at my deck do I need to sand it and (2) what Armstrong IPE stain should I use if I want to have the natural color of my IPE wood? Thanks for any help you can give me?
1. No need to sand.
2. Use Amber color.
We stained our deck with AC semi-transparent stain last summer. This summer, my husband wants to reapply the same stain to only the horizontal deck surface (not the rails, spindles or posts), because he isn’t happy with how it’s held up under some areas with foot traffic. I purchased the restore-a-deck clean and brightening kit, because I assumed since it was stained last summer, we would need to take that prep step again. He doesn’t think we need to, he thinks he can just go out and put another coat on the deck floor. He’s worried if he goes through the clean/brighten step, it will affect the other deck surfaces he doesn’t want to restain. I think if the wood is wet, the product isn’t allowed to dry and we rinse well, that will not be an issue. I also think he just thinks it sounds like a lot more work. Is it correct to do the prep step since we stained almost a year ago?
You have to prep when recoating and you can just do all the floor.
My deck currently has AC semi-transparent cedar stain on it. I’m considering going to an AC semi-solid stain. Do I use the RAD stripper & brightner or the RAD cleaner & brightner?
RAD Stripper/Brightener.
I am having a new cedar fence installed. How long do I need to wait before staining, and what prep do I need to do. It will be about 3500 sq ft. Can you also give me an idea of how much stain required. Tongue and groove panels with the top foot being lattice
Smooth wood or rough sawn wood?
Smooth wood with transparent finish
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
After the wait, you will need about 15-20 gallons for the one coat.
I had a new deck put in fall of 2017. Stained with Armstrong Clark- I need to restain it again, do i do the RAD before I restain?
Yes.
My deck was sanded and restained last summer. It is looking mil dewy is some sections. Should I use just the cleaner or the cleaner brightener… The brightener looks like pre staining application?
The prep products are only used if you are planning on reapplying, not general cleaning of dirt, etc.
I have a cabana made of Douglas Fir that I stained with Sikken’s SRD oil based semi transparent stain 3 years ago. Can I use RAD Cleaner and Brightener and then re stain with Armstrong Clark oil based semi transparent stain. Please email me the answer at kmicks@rogers.com. Thanks
No, you would have to remove the Sikkens first.
Do I need to strain semi transparent cedar stain before spraying on with airless sprayer? If so what micron filter is recommended.
No need.
Hello, We used Semi-transparent cedar stain on our new build siding two years ago. It still looks intact but I want to add a maintenance coat before it deteriorates. Can I simply pressure wash and apply new stain over the old?
Use this while pressure washing: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-wood-cleaner
Small project – getting ready to clean and brighten cedar arch support posts (installed last fall) for composite deck – okay to make small batch of RAD solutions, use bristle brush and hose off prior to stain?
Yes, or pressure wash off lightly.
Hi,
I had someone prep my deck with RAD stripper and brightener. They did not get all the old product off. I have been scraping off what was left. I have also had to sand some spots where their power washer chewed up the wood. Do I need to use the RAD cleaner again or can I just go ahead and apply my semisolid stain?
Also, it is getting cooler and sometimes it is damp. Should I apply the stain now or wait until spring? If I have to wait, do I then need to use the RAD again?
Also wondering if all the directions are followed, does Armstrong Clark stain have a warranty or guarantee?
It would be best to lightly clean and brighten the wood after the sanding and scrapping. Only one coat of the AC stain. You can do prep/stain now or in Spring. Warranty is on the can.
Should we wash the deck first or sand first. There is some rough splintery spots. Thanks for your response to my previous question.
Sand first and then prep.
Sadly we let our pretreated wood deck go too long before applying stain sealer. It dried out and the lumber has cracks. We ordered Armstrong Clark oil based semi-transparent stain/sealer for the deck. How should we prep this prior to applying the stain? Should we fill the cracks? Or not?
Cracks are normal on a deck and never use a crack filler. It does not work to blend with the stain. Prep with this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Will RAD harm my powder coated metal ballusters?
It shouldn’t but best ot do a test spot first.
Accidentally posted a photo from before the replacement spindles were in, so here are a couple more. There are probably 10 new spindles total. Thank you
Do it in the Spring. It will be fine. Clean and brighten while pressure washing for the prep. You should be fine to pressure wash all wood and the spindles. Wait 48 hours and then stain.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the help.
We recently moved into this house in Michigan that has a large (I believe around 1200 sq ft) deck that wraps around 2.5 sides of the house. This large section is south-facing with hot sun in summers, and we get lots of snow in winters. We know that the deck needs to be cleaned and re-stained. My question is, we only got these replacement boards, spindles, and railings on here today. And being September 1 our window of time to wash and stain with cooperating weather before winter comes is closing. I know the new wood should weather for a few months still, but I hate to let the whole deck have snow sit on it again all winter.
What do you recommend we do, and when?
Here is how I understand the rest of the process:
-Use RAD cleaner with scrub brush and pressure washer
-Use RAD brightener
-Wait how long before staining?
-Stain with a semi-transparent
Will the process above help prep the new wood to take stain yet this fall? Or should we risk another winter and wash and stain everything in spring? Not sure how long it’s been since deck last had stain, and I don’t want to lose more boards than I need to to the snow.
Also, can we pressure wash the railing spindles also, to prep for staining? The guy who did our repairs today cautioned that the older spindles might not take pressure washing well, and was suggesting that we replace all of the spindles, not just the ones he’d already done which had come loose or were badly split or soft. Replacing all the spindles isn’t in the budget for this year and I already know not to get too close with the pressure washer. Just would appreciate a second opinion on that part.
I know this is a lot of questions. I feel like I’ve read everything already and yet am just trying to work out the particulars of our situation. Thanks in advance.
I used Behr semi transparent water based stain a year ago. All of the horizontal surfaces are peeling. It appears that there was no penetration at all. I tried Behr stripper and it didn’t work, evev after 2 applications. I’m now in the process of sanding to remove it all. I have quite a bit of Behr all purpose cleaner left. Can I use this instead of RAD? I plan on using Armstrong Sierra redwood stain.
No, best to use the RAD products for the proper prep.
I have a hardwood fence rail that needs re-staining after 2 years. Previously used Flood hardwood stain. Do I need to use stripper or cleaner first or will a light sanding work as well before using an AC hardwood stain?
Strip or sand to remove it.
I have this deck about 5 years old and hasn’t been stained except clear stain from Sherwin Williams. I started stripping then saw some small areas where clear stain was holding water in certain spots. Here’s about 1/2 of the deck floor after I pressure washed, used pump sprayer 2-3 times, then rinsed. Does it look right? I can’t always tell when there’s leftover stain and need to use wire brush.
Keep going with the stripping while pressure washing and then make sure to brighten the wood. Do not use a wire brush on the wood.
We want to refinish decks stained with Armstrong transparent stain two years ago. I have scrubbed every surface with a brush and water. Areas that have been protected by roofing are still stained. The steps and areas where sun hits are down to bare wood. Do I really need to use your cleaner and brightener?
Yes, so you get an even application when you recoat.
Thanks for the reply. The original finish was Armstrong transparent. Can we use semi-transparent this time without stripping?
You should still strip to ensure an even application. Stripping is as easy as cleaning. Just apply and pressure wash. Brightener after.
I have a new cedar fence. Do I have to wait 3 months to stain it with semi transparent and what kind of prep is required?
Thanks
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
If smooth wood you have to wait and prep. If rough sawn you can do now.
Last year we apply PPG Lux stain on brand new IPE decking, that had cured for about 3 months in garage. Immediately after installing the IPE decking in the summer, the boards turned grey, some pealing, and the deck does not look good. Should we sand first and get the stain off and then clean or brighten? What sand paper grit would you use to take the previous PPG Lux stain off? thank you,
Post a picture of the current condition.
So, a new stain/paint contractor just sanded the deck. Quite a few ipe boards are cupping water after using the brightener. Even though its just a year old, the center of quite a few boards is dipping about 1/10″ He sanded with 150 grit. Now, my original deck installer says that I should have used a lower grit, like 80 or less. What is your opinion on the cupping, and the the proper grit to use with Armstrong Clark Amber? thanks
Sanding at 150 is way too fine and the AC will not soak in correctly. 60-80 is the correct amount and you should clean and brighten after. Not sure why it is cupping but it has nothng to do with the brightener or water.
I am building and arbor from machined, kiln dried Douglas Fir. Will this work for that application?
Yes after the wait and prep for new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I want to lightly sand my deck with 80 grit before I stain it. Should I sand it before or after the application of the RAD cleaner and brightener?
Sand first.
An addition to my question below. The windows have Plexiglas inserts, are they safe with exposure to the cleaner and brightener? Thanks.
The Plexiglas may have a reaction with the cleaner/brightener. Best to remove to be safe.
Hello, I’m about to clean, brighten and stain a cedar playhouse I built for my grand-daughters last summer. The house has 6 wide frame painted windows. Are the Cleaner and Brightener safe on painted surfaces or do I need to take steps to ensure these products do not contact the painted windows? Thanks
It should not harm the painted parts.
hello, going to re-stain an IPE deck that I previously stained(shows traffic wear) with Armstrong Clark.Do I need to pressure wash or just clean with RAD cleaner-there is some heavy dirt/mold/mildew from boat dock roof.Was going to PW and then RAD CLEANER with scrub brush.Will RAD CLEANER remove old stain or just open pores?any help is appreciated
Use the RAD Cleaner and pressure washing for the prep. It will remove the dirt and some stain but that is okay for reapplication.
Pressure washed a very large, 20 year old deck (pine) and removed 99% of previous stain (no idea what was used). Is it still necessary to clean and brighten prior to staining?
Possibly. Can you post a picture?
Before and after.
Previous file was too large. This is after power washing.
Looks good to stain.
Hi We are doing our cedar deck which has been stained multiple times with Behr Solid Barn Red. A number of boards have been replaced with new deck cedar. We are unable to remove the old stain from remaining boards with stripper. Do you recommend disc sanding or cob sanding, or soda sanding to remove the old stain? Also how long do we need to weather the deck once the stain has been removed? I am interested in a semi solid stain once we are ready.
Thank you. Nan
Power sanding to remove. Let weather for 1-2 months after and then clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Thank you for your reply. And some of your prep instructions you tell us that we have to leave the deck weather for 12 months before using semi-solid product. Please confirm that information. Thank you
The new wood does have to season 12 months before using a semi-solid color. 3-4 months if using a transparent or semi-transparent color.
Hello,
I was just looking for some advice… I am new to the home owning group having just recently purchased a home and we were looking to fix the deck on the home we had purchased after noticing it peeling off. The deck is pressure treated lumber, and is about 11 years old now. The previous coating was an Olympic maximum solid stain (red) and under that there was another unknown gray stain (maybe?). I have been able to remove nearly all traces of the previous two stains with the superdeck stripper, pressure washing and sanding. My question is, do I need to get every last trace of stain off before applying this, as in stain attached to nails or stuck in between cracks? It is not possible for me to get in between some cracks as the boards are spaced too tightly in some areas (which I am going to try and widen with a circular saw) and trying to use the random orbit sander in some areas is chewing up the sanding pads. After doing this do I need to brighten and then clean and then sand again before applying the semi-transparent stain. Lastly I had a question about placing where it is splintering, is there a good way to remove those, as they are also chewing up the sanding pads. I still need to try and remove some gunk that has deposited between the boards but I was going to try a leaf blower and then just wait for good weather.
Thank you for your time, I appreciate it.
-Yes, you have to remove all if going with a semi-transparent.
-Clean and brighten the wood for your last prep.
-Sand the splinters off.
I am using new dried kiln cedar deck boards in the Lowes HOFT slip fence. What prep do I need to do before staining with the TWP 200. Do I still need to use a cleaner and brightener before staining? I live on the beach in B.C. Canada
Yes, you have to weather and prep the new kiln-dried wood before using the Armstrong Clark. 1-2 months and then clean and brighten the wood.
Best product for pressure treated southern pine deck, last sealed 5 years ago with Sherwin Williams.
The SW does need to be removed first. Once done, use any color in the AC that you like.
15-year old IPE deck, in good condition, last sanded and sealed 2 years ago with a different product (Sherwin Williams SuperDeck). (Some darker areas adjacent to trees at one end, either from shade or greater moisture, not sure.) I plan to use the Armstrong Clark products this time around. Sanding/RAD Brightening/one coat of Mahogany stain. OK? Also, how long does the Brightening wash need to dry before applying the stain?
Strip and brighten to remove the SuperDeck. No need to sand. Wait for 48 hours to apply the stain. Just one coat.
Is there any reason not to sand instead of strip? My contractor seems to want to prefer to sand.
Stripping is easier and sanding closes the wood pores so the stain cannot soak in as deeply.
Looking for guidance on new R/S cedar fence. My cedar wood is at 0 to 7% moisture per my meter from the lumber yard, but with water test the smooth side will not take the water, mill glazing condition as stain industry calls it. The question is if I put up fence and wait 1 or 2 or 3 months to weather to point of accepting stain, won’t I have to use the 2 step cleaner before staining? if that answer is yes then if the 2 step cleaner removes mill glaze as I believe I read, then can I just put the fence up, use the two step to remove glazing, and then dry and stain? Is it really necessary to wait months?
Yes, you have to prep no matter what with the cleaner and the brightener. See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
One more view
Hello, trying to strip paint and stain off a deck in northern Indiana so we can stain with AC semi-solid stain. We’re not having much luck using citrustrip to get all the layers off. Do we need to sand or use something harsher? We have ordered the cleaner/brightener pack, but I’m not sure we should use that after stripping? I don’t want to start mixing chemicals or damage the wood. Please advise! Thank you!
Post a picture of what you are trying to remove.
We have started sanding but it’s really slow going, even using 36 grit. The grain is really raised, looks like there have been a few cycles of poor prep and just covering over stain/paint that has failed. Should I just keep sanding until it’s all off or is there value in trying to strip again?
Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise.
Keep sanding. Stripper will not work.
Ok! Still sanding! After sanding, do I need to clean/brighten at all?
Yes, clean and brighten.
I purchased a home with a 15 year old mahogany deck that has never been stained or treated. Wood planks are quite dry, of course, and last winter due to heavy snows it developed mildew in some areas. Do I need to use both RAD and cleaner products prior to applying semi-transparent stain?
Yes, you will need to prep with both.
Hi. Live in wonderful New Jersey. It’s been 4 days since I restored my 1 yr old IPE decks. Rained for several hours everyday since. Have AC for hardwoods and don’t see much of a dry spell in forecast to apply. Is surface dry ipe fine to start applying and 3-4 hours after to set before rain hits it?
Need 48 hours after rain and 12 hours before rain after applying.
What will be the preparation for the 12-18 month recoat on an IPE deck? What is the time of drying after rain or washing and product drying time before rain?
Use the RAD Deck Cleaner for prep when recoating. You need 48 hours after the rain stops to apply and 6-12 hours after applying before a rain.
Can I apply both of the RAD products using low pressure on a power washer? If so, should I mix it more concentrated to compensate for the mixing with water in the washer?
No, they cannot be applied through a pressure washer.
Used restore deck stripper on a treated pine deck. It did not remove all of the stain. Should we sandand then brighten?a
Yes, brightener after.
So I stained last year with AC and dont need to restain, but I do need to clean the deck. Soap and water is all that is needed?
Correct.
we stained our deck with transparent Armstrong stain about two years ago. Some of the deck is exposed to sunlight and weather the balance is not. I want to redo the deck in the same transparent stain. Do I need to strip and prep all of the deck or just the areas where is has weathered.? Please advise the procedure for prepping as well. Thank you
Use the cleaner and brightener for prep: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
used ac transparent on redwood deck 3 years ago, looking pretty ragged, decided to go with semi transparent this time, I was just going to re-sand deck before applying, is that ok versus all of the clean and brighten products?
Cleaning and brightening is the proper prep, not sanding. sanding can hinder the stain’s ability to soak into the wood fully.
I stain my deck every two years with AC. I’m between years . What is the best way to just clean the horizontal boards in the year I do not stain? Dawn etc?
Warm water and dish soap.