The most crucial step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to properly prep the surface before staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality-formulated wood coatings with five generations’ worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain products, the wood surface must be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed-out wood, we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
Armstrong Clark Prepping Instructions
For wood surfaces with old deck stains or sealers, we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple-to-follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product to adequately prep the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Step two of the system follows either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that counteracts the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and corrects the wood’s pH level, making it more acidic. This opens the wood’s pores and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready, following the prepping instructions, allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. You can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain with proper prepping. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
Hi, I have used your transparent stains in the past on my cedar sauna, cedar smimming pool and on a red west pine deck. I wish to now go with the semi-transparent stain. Is it ok if I clean and brighten or do I need to strip?
Thank you
Clean and brighten is fine.
I have a large pressure treated sienna brown deck, pergola and fence. It was built two years ago. I have ordered samples to try and a rad kit. Should I sand or is the kit prep enough before staining?
No need to sand. Just use the prep.
Thank you ?
It says to wait 1-2 days before staining, how long is too long to wait?
Stain within 2 weeks.
New 600 sf second story Cedar deck installed on my home early last summer, 4 months later cleaned it with Restore-A-Deck which left a clumpy mess on underside of deck, siding on house below, the patio and damaged some of the glass on the windows below per professional window cleaner.
Stained with one coat of Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain 4 months after installed.
The deck stain still looks really good (no mold/mildew/gray) but since it only has one coat of stain on it I want to put another coat on this summer.
What can I use to clean the deck and avoid the clumpy mess on the underside of deck, siding below, patio below and damage to windows?
I’m thinking after this summer I should be able to clean/stain it every other summer.
Use the RAD cleaner again but mix at half (about 2-4 oz per gallon) strength. Apply and lightly pressure rinse. The “clumps” you had before was from the removal of the oxidation/graying of the wood. When doing maintenance coats, you do not have this issue.
Thanks. So I should use the cleaner and brightener 2 step process each at half strength.
Yes.
Hello – I live in Toronto, Canada. Late last summer I used the Restore-A-Deck Kit to prep new cedar on our deck, railing, and pergola. I then applied a good coat of Semi-Trans Natural Oak to all surfaces. Over the winter I attempted to keep most surfaces clear of snow. Overall most surfaces look really good after the winter, however there are a number of spots on the floor where there is some peeling and/or discoloration. I remember reading last year that you should do a light coat at the start of Year 2. My question is what type of prep should I do before applying the year 2 coat? Please let me know before I finalize my order! Thanks for a great product, and the support you offer your community of users. Ray
Prep with this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
I am having a cypress garage door installed at my home in Northern Georgia that I would like stain with AC semi transparent exterior stain . I have seen a number of posts where it is adamantly stated that all wood must be allowed to weather before applying AC stains. Yet the Southern Cypress manufacturers association states “Cypress decking or siding should be finished promptly at the time of installation to protect against moisture absorption, discoloration from rain, and mildew.” The manufacturer of the door also recommends finishing promptly. I am confused by this conflicting advice. What are the consequences of applying your product to wood that has not been weathered? Thank you
Best to follow the advice of the stain manufacturer as they know the best results for applying their stain. You need to wait and prep with the AC stain. See this for tips: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Not waiting will most likely result in premature failure and or improper curing.
This picture is of ipe after cleaning and brightening and then rain. No stain. The customer would like this color. I tried a sample of mahogany but it makes it too brown. Is there a lighter red tone that will get it closer to the picture?
Amber would be closer or a mixture of Amber/Black Walnut. Our photo album may help: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-photo-album
I think I may already know the answer to this question, but I have a Cypress deck in Eastern Missouri, that was previously stained with some unmentionable product and I have pressure washed the “majority” of the old stain off, but there are blotches where the old stain did not come up. Do I absolutely have to remove 100% of the old stain for AC semi-solid stain to correctly cover exposed wood and some wood with old stain still present, but “roughed” up with intense pressure washing?
Yes, you need to remove the old stain. shoot for 95% or more.
Can I mix some Mildewcide into the semi-transparent?
No need. The AC already contains the maximum amount.
I am in the process of refinishing my deck here in Northwestern PA, I have completely sanded down to bare wood all the decking and replaced about 10 or 12 boards with new pressure treated lumber. The new lumber has been exposed to the weather for about 3 1/2 to 4 months at this time and appears to be absorbing water now. I have purchased an Armstrong Clark Stain Kit which includes the cleaner and brightener. Originally I was going to apply the stain this fall but I am now leaning towards waiting until spring. I am considering this because since I need to clean and treat the deck before the stain I will need to clean and scrub again in the spring whether I stain or not. Will I do any harm or cause myself even more work by waiting to stain until the spring time?
You will be fine if you wait until Spring. One Winter will not harm the wood.
Thank you, that was what I thought but just wanted your opinion
Should the deck be slightly damp before applying the cleaner solution with a sprayer? The instructions appear to indicate that, so I wanted to confirm before I start. FWIW– I will be using a deck scrubbing brush and garden hose to rinse afterwards.
It can be damp or dry when you start the prep.
Will the RAD cleaner or brightener damage black metal spindles on the deck rails? (I think they are powder coated black.)
Hard to say as the spindles are not all made the same. Best to test first. Typically there are no issues.
I’m freaking out! After sanding the gray off my Ipe deck it looked beautiful…nice reddish brown coloring. Last night I used the RAD cleaner and brightener, and the gorgeous red colors seem to have been bleached right out! It’s very light now with none of the warm tones. Will be using the mahogany stain on it but now I’m worried I won’t get the warm red tones back. ?
It will be fine once stained.
Hi. I installed an Ipe deck last August. I was going to stain it in the Spring but things got in the way and it didn’t happen, so it turned grey. I sanded it last week with 60grit. Was going to clean and brighten Thursday and stain Sunday. Forecast says possible rain Saturday morning though. Do I have to have 2 full days of no rain before I can stain (and another day after), or if it looks dry Sunday can I still stain Sunday?
Yes, you will need to wait 48 hours after the rain to be safe.
Ugh. OK, thank you!
My deck has a few stops where it has cracks that can cause sprinters. How can I fill these in before staining? I am using your semi-transparent oil based stain. I’m not too worried if it looks different. I want it to be safe
– Thanks, Nina
No. Wood filler will not work on exterior wood and the filler will not blend with the AC stain. It will look very bad.
To restain a deck with previously used stain do you need to clean and brighten or just clean before applying same stain as used before? Also, can pressure washing be skipped in the cleaning process? Does the cleaning product contain oxalic acid?
Depends on how long it has been but typically you can just use the RAD deck cleaner with pressure washing. The cleaner does not contain oxalic acid.
Just trying to get the sequence right. I am sanding sapele deck to bare wood and using semi-trans mahogany.
Do I sand 1st then then wash and brightener or in reverse?
Sand, clean, and then brighten.
Cedar fence preparation
Use this if the wood is not coated with a stain already: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Can you wait longer than 1-2 days after cleaning and brightening the deck to apply stain. If so how long can you wait?
Stain within 2 weeks of the prep for best results.
Our deck, railings and fence were stained 2-3 years ago with a water based stain. The company has gone out of business. What kind of prep do you recommend we use prior to applying an Armstrong Clark stain? There is primarily wear on the posts from sun & rain (we live in the Seattle area) and more significant wear on the fence. Thanks for your help!
You will have to remove it but not all stains are strippable. Can you post a picture?
The deck is Trex so it’s the posts we need to stain as well as some cedar fencing.
The best option is to use this kit while pressure washing: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Sand if needed any areas that cannot be fully stripped.
Can you recommend an additive I can mix into AC stain to protect against termites, carpenter ants, and similar pests?
There is a product called “Bug Juice” that works.
My cedar deck was installed in 2015/July – stained with AC Rustic Brown in September. A single coat was applied by brush with the promise the co would return the following year to apply a 2nd coat and clean the deck. Well 2 of the railings blew off due to poor workmanship and were finally repaired mid summer.. by the time I could schedule all of this the stain co schedule was full (both companies work together). So in 2017 June, with a few complaints to the owner (having been paid upfront in 2015) they came to apply the 2nd coat. They apparently applied a brightener /stripper that must have removed the previous stain and provided poor adhesion to the 2nd coat. Additionally there was a lot of fuzz and debris on the underside of the deck that I am still trying to clean off since it is a 15ft elevation.. Now I’m left with stain that is wearing off in a blotchy pattern even in non high traffic areas. So I refuse to hire this out again.. the owner of the co didn’t care.. so diy here I come. I chose your product for ease of maintenance and believe the product did not fail here. Please lmk what steps to take for proper removal and reapplication. It looks like a restore kit and power washing which I hate to do on newer wood.. then sanding etc..
Approx square footage: 700ft2
Thank you for your help!
Wendy
For the prep, you will need this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
This will restore down to the bare wood so the AC will properly perform.
I think you only answered the question to support the upper side of the floor decking.. what do you recommend for the underside of the deck boards? I plan to stain those but now have algae and the residue from the last prep. Obviously 15 ft up poses a challenge.
Regarding the stain application, do you recommend 1 or 2 coats per season? And what is the best way to apply this roller or brush?
There is no reason or need to stain the undersides unless you want to for appearance only. If so, yhou will need to clean/brighten for the prep.
2 coats wet on wet for initial application, redo with 1 coat as needed.
Yes it is for the appearance.. this area is currently an unfinished outdoor living area that serves the pool. So just to be sure, your cleaner and brightener will remove the algae..
Yes, it should remove most if not all. The only issue would be if the algae is deeply embedded into the wood.
If I use AC semi-transparent, I understand that it will fade after a time and I will need to re-apply. Will the wood gray and need to be sanded again?
You do not sand for the prep when reapplying. Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
My two decks are 14×22 and 34X13. They’ve been stained every two (maybe three years sometimes) years since being built. Used Thimpson’s In the beginning, Sealwize and Sherman-Williams the last two times. The Sherman-Williams was professionally applied but has not lasted as long as I hoped. The deck is weathered but otherwise in good shape. I plan to do the work myself this time. Should I use the restore a-deck stain stripper and them a brighter before staining or can I get away with just using one of those products? (I’m in my 70s and would like to avoid replacing the decks until I’m too old to do the work myself!) Will one application of the stain be sufficient? Can I spray it on? Does 6 gallons seem sufficient? (Sorry, I’m not smart enough to know how to attAch the picture I took!)
We will need a picture to see if you will need to strip and or sand to remove the previous coatings. As for amount needed, please use the calculator to the right of this page to determine the amount needed. You will need two coats once the current stain is removed fully down to the bare wood.
Forgot to mention, I have leftover Restore A deck stripper. Can I use this instead of Restore a deck cleaner?
Yes, you can strip it off and then brighten before reapplying.
Thank you. Do I need to apply stripper and brighter on the same day?
Yes, that is best.
got it. Thank you.
Hello. I applied Armstrong Clark Stain (Driftwood) to the stairs 2 years ago. I just wanted to clean the stairs this year and used dawn (got an advice from Jake a few years ago for cleaning a deck) and noticed about 50% of the stain came off. It seems I need to stain it again. Do I need to use restore a deck cleaner before applying the stain or dawn is good enough? Please take a look at photos. I did not scrub very hard while I was cleaning since it was just a quick wash. I was not preparing for staining at the time.
Thanks in advance!
I have stripped/ brightened and sanded my deck one week ago, however rain is forecast in the 40 to 60 % range. I have purchased the semi transparent natural oak. My question is what would be the worst case scenario If it rains within 24 hours after application?
It can handle a rain 12-24 hours after application.
Armstrong-Clark
I built a small (SYP) deck last fall and purchased the A-C stain and 2-step prep kit. 3-weeks ago. I was amazed how clean the prep kit cleaned the wood of all the dirt//etc.
We did have a lot wood ‘fuzzies” however and what appears to be a very white, lace-like glaze over the deck. We were careful not to let the cleaner/brightener dry on the wood; so, we are a little dumbfounded as to determine what the white glaze might be and how to get it off.
Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
Bryan
That is a result of the wood fibers being overly oxidized from the UV in the last 9 months. Might need to sand them off now. Try a floor buffer from a rental place and their sanding pads. It should come right off.
Two years ago we stained our deck and wood picnic table and benches with Armstrong Clark Semi-Trans Cedar stain. We used the Restore-A-Deck kit before we stained the deck and furniture. I started cleaning the mildew off the picnic table and the stain started coming off. Before we use the Restore-A-Deck kit should we also strip the stain or is the two step Wood Brightener enough to prepare the deck and furniture?
Hi, you need to use both the cleaner and the wood brightener for the prep, not just the brightener.
Yes, I am ordering the kit with the cleaner and wood brightener. I will go ahead and place our order and not order the stripper. Thanks for your quick reply!
I have a brazilian tigerwood deck. I have put one coat of the mahogany stain on. What do I need to do before applying again this year? Thank you
Prep with this: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-wood-cleaner
I’m restoring a deck that is 15 years old and quite neglected. I’ve power washed everything, which made a big difference. I now have lots of wood fibers now that I intended to sand before staining.
I read tonight that if it rains between the time I sand and apply the stain, that I will have to start over. My deck is 900 square feet and I’m doing all the work myself. It will be impossible to sand and stain without some rain as this will take me a couple of weeks.
How concerned should I be able rain on freshly sanded wood before getting to stain? I do intend to brighten after sanding and before staining.
Thank you!!
No that is not true. Rain has no effect on the prep besides just letting the wood dry for another 48 hours.
Thank you! I couldn’t figure out how in the world I could prevent the rain for a few weeks and the deck is way too large to tarp.
I’m thinking the stain was by Cabot.
Hi Ken,
We have this prepping kit that will remove the Cabot so the Armstrong can be applied: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
We have a rough sawn cedar fence that’s 6 years old. We previously used a transparent oil based stain, not sure of the name, something Australian. How would we prepare our fence for your semi transparent stain?
We have a 7 year old treated pine deck, have applied a waterproofing oil similar to Thompson’s twice (year 2 and year 4), and now we’ve decided to go with a semi-transparent. After pressure washing and taking loose slivers off with an orbital sander, I came across your product and ordered it (and it arrived today). In the meantime I was surprised to notice that water still beaded if I tossed a small amount onto the deck when dry (any significant rain hasn’t beaded in a while) – so I promptly got some stain stripper from our hardware store and gave the deck a good cleaning this evening. Now as I review your website and deck-prep tips, I’m kicking myself for not just ordering the RAD stripper/brightener when I purchased the stain. Do I have to worry about any problems, or have to consider anything else since I used this other product. It was called Natura Safe Strip – exterior paint and stain stripper.
Hard to say. Please post a picture of the current condition.
You can see a few spots where I had thrown a bit of water on to test for beading.
It looks stripper enough for staining but you should brighten the deck first.
Thanks a ton for the good advice and quick replies. Considering that we appear to have a window of good weather early this week, busy schedules, and that we’d have to order the brightener, I think we’ll live with a darker look and get the job done asap. Please let me know if I’m overlooking something. Thanks again for the help.
You should be okay but you might want to check and see if a local store has a brightener. It will help the appearance.
It is time to stain my deck again. I used AC semi-solid the last time. You all recommend to use the Restore-a-deck 2 part kit but do I need to pressure wash it before using the cleaning kit? Could I pressure wash instead of the kit?
You pressure wash while using the kit. Both need to be done.
I have a 2-year old red balau deck that has mesmers deck stain on it (applied last summer), should I sand off the old stain before applying your product or is stripping it sufficient prep? If your stripper is ok should I also use the brighter as well?
Also for a “wet look” what product would you recommend?
Thanks,
Paul
For the prep do not sand but use this: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Yes on the brightener. Try the AC in Amber color.
I’m about to re-stain my hardwood deck with your amber stain. I called one of your suppliers and they said to prep it to just wash it with dawn soap. Do I need a brightener? It was not mentioned so I go the feeling it should not matter, but what I’ve read online says to use a brightener.
For the prep, you should use both a deck cleaner and a wood brightener.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Just purchased new Redwood for fences. Boards will be weathered for two-three weeks. Is that long enough? Planning on Sierra Redwood semi-transparent stain. Clean and Brighten needed? Thanks.
Smooth boards or rough sawn? See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Smooth. Live in Arizona so heat a factor in drying/weathering. Will that speed up process or do I really have to wait at least 4 months. Thanks again.
You will have to wait 2-4 months and do the prep.
I have a 6 year old treated pine deck, stained 5 years ago (not A-C, not sure of brand). I have sanded deck down to bare wood and intend to pressure wash it. It is very dry (central Texas). Do I need to to use any of your prep products prior to staining? Do you reccomend Semi transparent or semi Solid?
Light pressure wash will help open the grain of the wood after the sanding. Apply just one coat of the AC. Either semi-trans or semi-solid.
I want to refinish some teak deck chairs that are grey. Can I use the 2 step deck cleaning process and then finish with a teak oil?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit and stain with the Armstrong Clark Hardwood colors:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
this ipe is not for a deck, it is t+g soffit that has to be installed in a week, should I sand with 80 ?
60 Grit.
how should I prep new ipe
Wait a couple of months to season the wood and then use this to prep:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Do we also need to sand? Or just doing the deck prep kit enough? In which situation do we want to sand? I stained my IPE deck 2 years ago (clear no color) and now colors is gray but the surface is smooth and nice I want to give it the “Amber” color that you sell.
Just the prep kit typically is needed. Sanding would only happen if you let the wood oxidize (turn gray) too much. Amber looks great in IPE!
So ( please see pic) you would sand this deck then do the prep kit on it? Do you think I can do it without the sanding??
Just use the prep kit.
when you mean pre-kit, you mean the RESTORE-A-DECK KIT or the RAD STAIN STRIPPER/BRIGHTENER KIT given the pictures above?
This one: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
More info for “Can I put the armstrong clark rustic brown over sanded treated lumber. I stripped four coats of paint off a small porch. It’s old and so not perfect and I don’t expect it to be. It will be “rustic?”
As long as the wood is free of the old paint and you do the final prep of the Restore A Deck Kit. This will help the stain to soak in deeper.
Can I put the armstrong clark rustic brown over sanded treated lumber?
I had a cedar deck installed one year ago. The installers said to leave it for one year and then seal it. What prep do you recommend and which stain? My goal is to keep it as close to the natural color that it is right now but maximize protection. Also, how often will I need to redo this and how long will the leftover sealant last? I have around 450 square feet and I’m thinking a 5-gallon drum might be too much, but if I could save it for a couple of years for a 2nd coat, maybe that would be a good idea. Thanks.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit. You can use any color you like. Redo every 2 years. Shelf life is 12 months for an opened container.
Hello. I have a new (5 month old) Cedar deck. I just used the Restore-a-deck cleaner and brightener and now I have wood fuzziness. I see a lot of varying opinions on what to do about the fuzziness prior to oiling from sanding to using an orbital floor buffer. What does AC recommend? If sandpaper what grit? Should the whole deck be done or only those boards most affected?
Only if needed, light buff off the excess wood fibers with 80 grit paper. You will need to do all so it stains evenly.
Do it matter how wet the deck is before you begin the stripping/brightening process. We are expecting heavy storms for 2-3 days. Once they stopped, I wanted to strip/brighten and then let the deck dry out before staining. Thanks.
The wood can be wet when you do the prep. No issues.
I have about 10 year old pergola which I sanded to expose bare wood (which is completely dry), Do I need to clean and brighten it as well even after sanding it down to bare wood?
Thanks
You should be okay to stain it now since it is vertical wood.
Yes but no clean and brightening needed before stain?
Sorry. Yes, you should lightly prep to remove any sand dust and this will also help to open up the pores of the wood for the AC stain to soak in deeper.
Thank you very much! Stain arriving Tuesday, finish up prep and then stain next weekend. Appreciate the help 🙂
How do you apply the prep products on the deck and especially on upright spindles and on a pergola?
Use a pump sprayer to apply the prep products.
[quote name=”Matt_R”]If I have put on a coat of AC a year ago and want to do another coat this year do I need to do both RAD cleaner and brightener?
Original coat has held up well but a bit faded on the horizontal boards of the deck, so would like to bring back the great original color. Would be using same color as the original application.[/quote]
Using both is best.
If I have put on a coat of AC a year ago and want to do another coat this year do I need to do both RAD cleaner and brightener?
Original coat has held up well but a bit faded on the horizontal boards of the deck, so would like to bring back the great original color. Would be using same color as the original application.