The most crucial step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to properly prep the surface before staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality-formulated wood coatings with five generations’ worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain products, the wood surface must be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed-out wood, we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
Armstrong Clark Prepping Instructions
For wood surfaces with old deck stains or sealers, we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple-to-follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product to adequately prep the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Step two of the system follows either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that counteracts the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and corrects the wood’s pH level, making it more acidic. This opens the wood’s pores and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready, following the prepping instructions, allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. You can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain with proper prepping. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
[quote name=”Trent”]In May of 2016 we had a screened in porch built with pressure treated lumber. In the Fall of 2016, we stained the porch. While the wood wasn’t as dry as we would have liked, we wanted to stain before it went a whole year with no stain. We used your cleaner, brightner, and cedar semi-transparent stain. When is it best to do a maintenance coat? I’m not sure how deep it penetrated the first time. I’m wondering if the cleaner will take most of the stain off before the maintenance stain coat? And if the overall color would go deeper with second coat of stain? Guess just looking for your advice/experience as restaining our porch is a big job. Thanks.[/quote]
For a maintenance coat, use the Restore A Deck Kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
In May of 2016 we had a screened in porch built with pressure treated lumber. In the Fall of 2016, we stained the porch. While the wood wasn’t as dry as we would have liked, we wanted to stain before it went a whole year with no stain. We used your cleaner, brightner, and cedar semi-transparent stain. When is it best to do a maintenance coat? I’m not sure how deep it penetrated the first time. I’m wondering if the cleaner will take most of the stain off before the maintenance stain coat? And if the overall color would go deeper with second coat of stain? Guess just looking for your advice/experience as restaining our porch is a big job. Thanks.
[quote name=”BNB”]4 weeks ago I had a redwood fence installed. The vertical boards are rough cut, the horizontal 2×6 and 1×4 boards on the cap are not. Planning to stain in the next couple weeks with semi-transparent, will any preparation be necessary?[/quote]
You should be okay as long as the wood is clean and dry.
4 weeks ago I had a redwood fence installed. The vertical boards are rough cut, the horizontal 2×6 and 1×4 boards on the cap are not. Planning to stain in the next couple weeks with semi-transparent, will any preparation be necessary?
[quote name=”Faye Forhan”]Have your your stain and brightener…and ready to go but I put what I thought were stainless hinges on new cedar window frame and when they got wet made a black “iron?”stain will the cleaner brightener remove that???? any suggestions if not they are aabout 2 by 3 inches not solid black but smeary looking. Thanks[/quote]
That is rust must likely. The brightener should help with it but whenever it gets wet again, it will rust.
Have your your stain and brightener…and ready to go but I put what I thought were stainless hinges on new cedar window frame and when they got wet made a black “iron?”stain will the cleaner brightener remove that???? any suggestions if not they are aabout 2 by 3 inches not solid black but smeary looking. Thanks
[quote name=”Peter C Meyer”]If I use wood stripper, should I use wood cleaner first? One year old deck with oil based/acrylic stain in place.[/quote]
If using a stain stripper, you do not need to use a cleaner. Brightener after the stripping.
If I use wood stripper, should I use wood cleaner first? One year old deck with oil based/acrylic stain in place.
[quote name=”James W.”]Love our AC deck stain in Sequoia (on redwood). First applied, then easily reapplied 2 years ago. But now the house was painted, and we’re wondering if we can change to a different AC stain. Steps?
Thinking Oxford Brown or possibly Walnut.[/quote]
Strip and brighten for the prep to switch:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Love our AC deck stain in Sequoia (on redwood). First applied, then easily reapplied 2 years ago. But now the house was painted, and we’re wondering if we can change to a different AC stain. Steps?
Thinking Oxford Brown or possibly Walnut.
[quote name=”Faye Kennedy”]About to purchase natural tone stain for new cedar sided building. Sided over the winter months on dry days (Oregon weather)and some of the wood is faded (slightly gray) compared to the protected parts of building, I guess it is due to rain splattering up on bottom 3 boards and the eave boards either from sun or water dripping off of the roof. Should I use deck brightener(restore a deck) you sell on the faded boards or just clean with the bleach mixture. No sign of mildew just not as bright reddish as the rest of the building. The splash back on the bottom boards if thats what caused the gray is mostly from gravel around building no obvious mud splatters. Its now been sided and sitting there for about 2 months. Have a power washer if needed. Thanks so much for your help, biggest project I have ever done.[/quote]
You will need both the Restore A Deck Cleaner and the Brightener Kit for the prep while pressure washing.
All the wood needs to be prepped to remove the mill glaze and any oxidation that has occurred.
About to purchase natural tone stain for new cedar sided building. Sided over the winter months on dry days (Oregon weather)and some of the wood is faded (slightly gray) compared to the protected parts of building, I guess it is due to rain splattering up on bottom 3 boards and the eave boards either from sun or water dripping off of the roof. Should I use deck brightener(restore a deck) you sell on the faded boards or just clean with the bleach mixture. No sign of mildew just not as bright reddish as the rest of the building. The splash back on the bottom boards if thats what caused the gray is mostly from gravel around building no obvious mud splatters. Its now been sided and sitting there for about 2 months. Have a power washer if needed. Thanks so much for your help, biggest project I have ever done.
[quote name=”Tom123″]How would you recommend using your product on teak furniture previously treated with teak oil?[/quote]
As long as you prep by removing any Teak Oil, you can use the Armstrong. Strip it off with this:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
How would you recommend using your product on teak furniture previously treated with teak oil?
[quote name=”richard Robbins”]I’ve got a pine board and baton house last stained no less than 15 years ago with an oil stain – blue/grey – the second coat following the original one appied some 10 years before that . It’s fading a bit and it seems time to re-stain. even after I’ve started power washing the stain is holding
1. in addition to cleaning – which I was planning with simply continue powerwashing – is stripper required? if so, is Restore -a – Deck the product of choice? what’s the coverage per container of the powder?[/quote]
Is this blue-gray stain a semi-trans or solid color.? To use the AC you will need to remove the old coating but how to remove the old coating depends on the type and brand it is.
I’ve got a pine board and baton house last stained no less than 15 years ago with an oil stain – blue/grey – the second coat following the original one appied some 10 years before that . It’s fading a bit and it seems time to re-stain. even after I’ve started power washing the stain is holding
1. in addition to cleaning – which I was planning with simply continue powerwashing – is stripper required? if so, is Restore -a – Deck the product of choice? what’s the coverage per container of the powder?
[quote name=”Alan R”]I saw the video of a guy using a nice brush head to apply his stain – what kind of brush head is that attached to the pole?[/quote]
Soft bristle car wash brush.
I saw the video of a guy using a nice brush head to apply his stain – what kind of brush head is that attached to the pole?
[quote name=”patricia”]south and east deck very weathered with some newer replacement boards/covered deck have hardly any wear. i used ben/moore arborcoat and last years coating is terrible. i understand from research that i’ll have to sand off all in order to use your product??? also, the south logs are very damaged by sun-how much sanding needed??? will a plastic garden pump work for spray application? i’m new to this maintenance in hot sierras–thanks for the help[/quote]
Yes you will need to remove the BM Arborcoat and to remove any sun damage. The AC should not be pump sprayed. Best to use an airless sprayer.
south and east deck very weathered with some newer replacement boards/covered deck have hardly any wear. i used ben/moore arborcoat and last years coating is terrible. i understand from research that i’ll have to sand off all in order to use your product??? also, the south logs are very damaged by sun-how much sanding needed??? will a plastic garden pump work for spray application? i’m new to this maintenance in hot sierras–thanks for the help
[quote name=”gardnvarcher”]I have a cedar fence, 7 years old, never stained, looks pretty good yet. I live in western Nevada, fairly dry and sunny. What is the best prep and stain for this fence?[/quote]
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit and stain with the Armstrong Clark in on of the semi-transparent colors.
I have a cedar fence, 7 years old, never stained, looks pretty good yet. I live in western Nevada, fairly dry and sunny. What is the best prep and stain for this fence?
[quote name=”shilohbandana”]I used Armstrong Clark stain on a new deck two years ago with beautiful results. I am now ready to apply a maintenance coat of the same AC stain on the areas that are most exposed to the direct hot Tennessee sun. I understand that I need to use the RAD Cleaner first, but I am not totally clear as to whether I also should use the Brightener as well prior to restaining……can you please clarify this for me. Any other advice also welcome…. Thank you, i’m a big fan of your products ! Rob J.[/quote]
Best to use both. Thanks!
I used Armstrong Clark stain on a new deck two years ago with beautiful results. I am now ready to apply a maintenance coat of the same AC stain on the areas that are most exposed to the direct hot Tennessee sun. I understand that I need to use the RAD Cleaner first, but I am not totally clear as to whether I also should use the Brightener as well prior to restaining……can you please clarify this for me. Any other advice also welcome…. Thank you, i’m a big fan of your products ! Rob J.
[quote name=”dennis”]just put stripper down on wet deck and waited 1/2 hour and tried pressure washer on it, not taking the old stain off[/quote]
What stain brand and type of stain are you trying to remove? Feel free to reply to your email with a picture.
just put stripper down on wet deck and waited 1/2 hour and tried pressure washer on it, not taking the old stain off
[quote name=”moscarwhite”]Regarding my last question w/ the 1 year old deck with the mold:
1) should I use the RAD kit first and then pressure wash, or pressure wash the deck first and then use the RAD kit?
2) what can be done to prevent the mold so I don’t have to repeat this process again next spring?
Thank you[/quote]
!. Use the RAD while pressure washing.
2. There is a product called Wet and Forget that you can use after the stain dries. It should help.
Regarding my last question w/ the 1 year old deck with the mold:
1) should I use the RAD kit first and then pressure wash, or pressure wash the deck first and then use the RAD kit?
2) what can be done to prevent the mold so I don’t have to repeat this process again next spring?
Thank you
[quote name=”moscarwhite”]1 year old redwood deck was prepped w/ RAD kit at 4 months of age (last Sept) and stained w/ AC natural stain a few weeks later. The deck looked great for a few months – then the mold took over and covered the entire deck after the heavy rainy season in Northern CA this past winter. I plan to pressure wash the deck to remove the mold. I also plan to use RAD kit again before re-staining. I may also re-sand the deck if needed.
1) Does the deck need to be re-sanded?
2) What is the proper sequence for RAD kit, pressure washing, and sanding (if necessary)?
3)How long should I wait after pressure wash/RAD kit/ sanding before staining the deck?
Thank you.[/quote]
1. Deck does not need to be sanded.
2. About 2 days.
1 year old redwood deck was prepped w/ RAD kit at 4 months of age (last Sept) and stained w/ AC natural stain a few weeks later. The deck looked great for a few months – then the mold took over and covered the entire deck after the heavy rainy season in Northern CA this past winter. I plan to pressure wash the deck to remove the mold. I also plan to use RAD kit again before re-staining. I may also re-sand the deck if needed.
1) Does the deck need to be re-sanded?
2) What is the proper sequence for RAD kit, pressure washing, and sanding (if necessary)?
3)How long should I wait after pressure wash/RAD kit/ sanding before staining the deck?
Thank you.
[quote name=”jajmco”]Full sun exposure in Orange County NY. deck is cedar, what is the best staying to use? We are looking at the transparent and semi-transparent[/quote]
When in full sun, the semi-solid would be best. Next best would be the sem-trans.
Full sun exposure in Orange County NY. deck is cedar, what is the best staying to use? We are looking at the transparent and semi-transparent
I have cedar decking and pressure treated railings. All surfaces have been fully sanded, do you recommend any pre stain treatments to these surfaces?
[quote name=”Steve Frasca”]How does stripper work. After application with pump sprayer what is required to remove old stain, i.e., Cabot Australian Timber Oil? Is there scrubbing or sanding required or do you just wash off? Thanks. Steve[/quote]
Apply the Stripper and pressure wash off. Rinse and apply the brightener. Rinse this after 10 minutes.
How does stripper work. After application with pump sprayer what is required to remove old stain, i.e., Cabot Australian Timber Oil? Is there scrubbing or sanding required or do you just wash off? Thanks. Steve
[quote name=”Carol W”]I sanded our ipe deck last year, then applied Penafin Marine Oil. I’d like to try the AC mahagony this year. Do I need to use the RAD stripper or can I just use the cleaner before the Brightener.
Thank you.[/quote]
Use the stain stripper for the prep.
I sanded our ipe deck last year, then applied Penafin Marine Oil. I’d like to try the AC mahagony this year. Do I need to use the RAD stripper or can I just use the cleaner before the Brightener.
Thank you.
[quote name=”David Martin”]Is the stripper environmentally safe or will I risk killing the vegetation?[/quote]
If you cover plants and rinse well when done, you should be okay.
Is the stripper environmentally safe or will I risk killing the vegetation?
[quote name=”David Martin”]I have been pressure washing (2000PSI at close range, about 25ft2/ hr) a Penofin coated cedar fence ( 1 coat on new wood 18 months ago). I am afraid of using any cleaner/stripper products because of the greenery along the entire fence line. I’d rather have a less than perfect finish than kill the roses. The wood looks and feels clean but I’m not sure if this will be enough. Your comments would be appreciated.[/quote]
The Penofin does need to come off. If your method is not removing it completely, then use the Stripper.
I have been pressure washing (2000PSI at close range, about 25ft2/ hr) a Penofin coated cedar fence ( 1 coat on new wood 18 months ago). I am afraid of using any cleaner/stripper products because of the greenery along the entire fence line. I’d rather have a less than perfect finish than kill the roses. The wood looks and feels clean but I’m not sure if this will be enough. Your comments would be appreciated.
[quote name=”Monika”]I have a new deck built a year ago. I would like to use your armstrong clark semi transparent stain on it. What do I need to do to prep it?
Thanks[/quote]
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
I have a new deck built a year ago. I would like to use your armstrong clark semi transparent stain on it. What do I need to do to prep it?
Thanks
[quote name=”Mark C”]Our porch has had several coats of penefin. Last year we pressure washed and then used a different oil product similar to yours, but was unhappy with the durability. Should I use the RAD cleaner or stripper before trying your mahogany stain?
Thanks[/quote]
Use the RAD Stain Stripper for the prep.
Our porch has had several coats of penefin. Last year we pressure washed and then used a different oil product similar to yours, but was unhappy with the durability. Should I use the RAD cleaner or stripper before trying your mahogany stain?
Thanks
[quote name=”Rob C”]I have a 3 year old cedar fence in Toronto and have used penofin yearly but not happy with the black (either tannin or mold) staining. I have used a cleaner to remove all of the black staining and then brightened. Some of the existing penofin is still present can I use your product overtop or does the penofin have to be stripped.[/quote]
Needs to be stripped. Penofin is easily removed with the Restore A Deck Stripper and pressure washing. Brighten after.
I have a 3 year old cedar fence in Toronto and have used penofin yearly but not happy with the black (either tannin or mold) staining. I have used a cleaner to remove all of the black staining and then brightened. Some of the existing penofin is still present can I use your product overtop or does the penofin have to be stripped.
[quote name=”Kathy Catalano”]I have a redwood deck, and plan is to use your stripper/brightener and then stain. How long is it okay to go without staining after stripping/cleaning since deck will be exposed? How long does the stripper/brightener take to dry? How long does it take for shipping if I bought these products from you (i.e., stripper/brightener and stain)? Thank you.[/quote]
Shipping depends on where you live. 2-5 days in the US. After preping, wait 2-3 days to stain.
[quote name=”Sullivan Brown”]We just bought a house with an Ipe wood deck. It is grey, but in good condition. Can I just pressure wash it to prep for AC stain or do I need to buy a deck cleaner to prep it?[/quote]
Using the cleaner with pressure washing will result in a better appearance and prep for the wood.
I have a redwood deck, and plan is to use your stripper/brightener and then stain. How long is it okay to go without staining after stripping/cleaning since deck will be exposed? How long does the stripper/brightener take to dry? How long does it take for shipping if I bought these products from you (i.e., stripper/brightener and stain)? Thank you.