The most crucial step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to properly prep the surface before staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality-formulated wood coatings with five generations’ worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain products, the wood surface must be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed-out wood, we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
Armstrong Clark Prepping Instructions
For wood surfaces with old deck stains or sealers, we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple-to-follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product to adequately prep the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Step two of the system follows either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that counteracts the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and corrects the wood’s pH level, making it more acidic. This opens the wood’s pores and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready, following the prepping instructions, allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. You can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain with proper prepping. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
[quote name=”Rose”]HI, I saw that you answered this question regarding someone who had kiln-dried red cedar decking and said that there is no need to do the underside or ends of the deck boards. Is this your recommendation for any cedar decking, whether or not kiln-dried?
Thanks![/quote]
Yes, no need to stain undersides.
HI, I saw that you answered this question regarding someone who had kiln-dried red cedar decking and said that there is no need to do the underside or ends of the deck boards. Is this your recommendation for any cedar decking, whether or not kiln-dried?
Thanks!
[quote name=”Daniel Druding”]My wife and I replaced all the 2×6 deck boards on our deck that are pressure treated. They are really wet so I thought I would wait until Sep. to apply your product. Correct tell me if this is the right thing to do. Also will I have to clean the new wood and if so what should I use to do this with?[/quote]
Yes you need to wait and prep. See this about new decking and AC stains:
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
My wife and I replaced all the 2×6 deck boards on our deck that are pressure treated. They are really wet so I thought I would wait until Sep. to apply your product. Correct tell me if this is the right thing to do. Also will I have to clean the new wood and if so what should I use to do this with?
[quote name=”Yves Leroux”]I will buy the RAD Cleaner to prepare my 10 months new cedar deck. With the RAD Cleaner, do i need to clean with pressure wash? or just apply the RAD Cleaner with water and broom/brush?[/quote]
You will need to use a pressure washer or heavy scrub and rinse. Pressure washing is easier and faster.
I will buy the RAD Cleaner to prepare my 10 months new cedar deck. With the RAD Cleaner, do i need to clean with pressure wash? or just apply the RAD Cleaner with water and broom/brush?
[quote name=”Justin Morris”]I applied your Armstrong Clark transparent redwood stain to my 3 month old redwood deck a little over two years ago with little prep except brushing and hosing it off. The deck is a wrap around almost 750 SF, one area at the porch is covered and still looks great. The rest of the deck is in direct sunlight for more than half of each day and had faded badly by the end of the first summer. By this spring it is blotchy and starting to gray where the stain appears to have come off. We are in East Napa county and the climate is considered Mediterranean. My questions are what would we the best method for prep and what would be the best type of stain for my conditions? Thank you in advance, Justin![/quote]
It would be best to remove all since it is uneven and start over. Using the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper will do this. Apply and pressure wash to remove. Neutralize with the Wood Brightener after. The transparent colors will have less protection from UV damage than the semi-transparents. Semi-solid colors will offer even more protection. We would suggest moving to a semi-transparent or semi-solid.
I applied your Armstrong Clark transparent redwood stain to my 3 month old redwood deck a little over two years ago with little prep except brushing and hosing it off. The deck is a wrap around almost 750 SF, one area at the porch is covered and still looks great. The rest of the deck is in direct sunlight for more than half of each day and had faded badly by the end of the first summer. By this spring it is blotchy and starting to gray where the stain appears to have come off. We are in East Napa county and the climate is considered Mediterranean. My questions are what would we the best method for prep and what would be the best type of stain for my conditions? Thank you in advance, Justin!
[quote name=”Jan”]We had the mahogany stain applied to our IPE deck last year. I think they didn’t follow the instructions because the color was very uneven. I’m going to put another coat on this spring. Do I need to use a special cleaner, or can I just use some soap and water before applying another coat?[/quote]
Use our Restore A Deck kit for the prep. This will help to ensure a good surface for your new coating.
We had the mahogany stain applied to our IPE deck last year. I think they didn’t follow the instructions because the color was very uneven. I’m going to put another coat on this spring. Do I need to use a special cleaner, or can I just use some soap and water before applying another coat?
[quote name=”Doug Such”]How long do you need to wait before you stain a new cedar fence?[/quote]
Rough cut wood or smooth wood? Rough sawn can be stained right away. If smooth wood, see here:
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
How long do you need to wait before you stain a new cedar fence?
Clean and brighten for the prepping of the wood. Stain with the AC after a few days of drying. Look at the semi-trans or semi-solid colors.
I installed a cedar deck last year, but was not satisfied with the stain I had put on it. I even sanded off the mill glaze before staining. Because of some cupping of the boards and the stain that was flaking off in places, I recently sanded off the cupping effect and the stain is gone too. With these conditions, what preparation and products do you recommend? Thanks,
Steve
[quote name=”Sonya”]6 year old ipe deck. Used Cabot timber oil in Jaffa brown first year then 2 years later used low voc Cabot timber oil in mahogany flame as Jaffa brown no longer available. Do I need to strip deck prior to applying your mahogany product? If so, must I apply with pressure washer or can I use scrub brush with high pressure garden hose? Weather is unseasonably warm. Want to get a jump on this project. Thanks![/quote]
Yes you must remove the old stain first. Apply stripper with a pump sprayer then pressure wash off.
6 year old ipe deck. Used Cabot timber oil in Jaffa brown first year then 2 years later used low voc Cabot timber oil in mahogany flame as Jaffa brown no longer available. Do I need to strip deck prior to applying your mahogany product? If so, must I apply with pressure washer or can I use scrub brush with high pressure garden hose? Weather is unseasonably warm. Want to get a jump on this project. Thanks!
[quote name=”Carl kling”]I bought rough cut oak boards for a new fence. Can I use your product on this project. Can I stain the board before I build the fence. The boards have been in my garage since they were cut 2 months ago.[/quote]
Since it is rough cut you can stain now. Make sure the wood is clean and free of any dirt.
I bought rough cut oak boards for a new fence. Can I use your product on this project. Can I stain the board before I build the fence. The boards have been in my garage since they were cut 2 months ago.
[quote name=”Jean”]I’m a little confused. I was told that I do not need to prepare new shingles by a salesman at Armstrong. I am planning to put on Western REd shingles on a house in Maine. Please advise how to prep and the best product to use. I was advised no need for prep and semi-transparent oil would be best.
If I used transparent–what are the pros and cons?
If at some point I wanted to paint over with a primer and paint how would I need to prep and with what?
Thank you,
Jean[/quote]
New cedar shingles are typically “rough cut” and do not need to be prepped to remove mill glaze that is on new smooth decking. Only reason to prep would be to remove dirt or remove oxidation/graying. If you do not have either then you can go ahead and stain right away.
Transparent colors will fade faster then a semi-transparent.
If you decide to paint later on then you should strip off the AC and brighten the wood.
I’m a little confused. I was told that I do not need to prepare new shingles by a salesman at Armstrong. I am planning to put on Western REd shingles on a house in Maine. Please advise how to prep and the best product to use. I was advised no need for prep and semi-transparent oil would be best.
If I used transparent–what are the pros and cons?
If at some point I wanted to paint over with a primer and paint how would I need to prep and with what?
Thank you,
Jean
[quote name=”Karen”]Hi there
We paid someone to stain our deck. It is great that they used your products but the deck was wet from rain on the day they applied. And it then rained again within 1-2 hours of the application. They came back to put another coat on; however there were puddles of water formed on the deck and wood appeared wet to me. I let them know I was concerned that the first coat did not cure properly. They assured me there was nothing to worry about.
Can you please advise about this?
Do you think we should put another coat on in the Spring?[/quote]
Hard to say if there is an issue or not. I would not apply a coat now but wait and address the situation in the Spring.
Hi there
We paid someone to stain our deck. It is great that they used your products but the deck was wet from rain on the day they applied. And it then rained again within 1-2 hours of the application. They came back to put another coat on; however there were puddles of water formed on the deck and wood appeared wet to me. I let them know I was concerned that the first coat did not cure properly. They assured me there was nothing to worry about.
Can you please advise about this?
Do you think we should put another coat on in the Spring?
[quote name=”Olivia Fleming”]Our Cumaru decking was installed 11/2014; the contractor used Ipe oil on it. We’re at a lake in N C and get a lot of sun. It has greyed since then. I understand that you suggest RAD wood cleaner and brightened.
Do we need to use a stripper to remove the Ipe oil? What happens if we don’t?
Thank you.[/quote]
Yes you should use the Stripper and the brightener for the prep. The Ipe Oil needs to be removed.
Our Cumaru decking was installed 11/2014; the contractor used Ipe oil on it. We’re at a lake in N C and get a lot of sun. It has greyed since then. I understand that you suggest RAD wood cleaner and brightened.
Do we need to use a stripper to remove the Ipe oil? What happens if we don’t?
Thank you.
[quote name=”Paul DiPirro”]I recently added an treated syp extension to both sides of my existing syp treated deck and I sanded the one year old paint from the existing deck. What do I use to prep it for staining and will the stain color be uniform because I’m combining 2 year old sanded wood with 6 month old new wood[/quote]
New wood and older wood will stain differently when using the AC. The newer wood will be lighter in color. Prep all wood with with a deck cleaner and wood brightener first.
I recently added an treated syp extension to both sides of my existing syp treated deck and I sanded the one year old paint from the existing deck. What do I use to prep it for staining and will the stain color be uniform because I’m combining 2 year old sanded wood with 6 month old new wood
[quote name=”Alison James”]Hi, we just had a new redwood deck installed end of July in Eastern Washington State. Just 160 sq. ft. It faces south and will get a lot of sun. Seems like we should use a semi-solid stain for best UV protection? Which colors would you recommend for use on redwood to still enjoy the wood appearance? Also, timing — our best calendar opportunity to apply a finish is mid-late September i.e. 6 weeks from now. (Work/seasonal issues.) Is that a long enough period to wait? Should we still use the cleaner first? Many thanks for your help![/quote]
Please see this about new wood:
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Just one coat.
Hi, we just had a new redwood deck installed end of July in Eastern Washington State. Just 160 sq. ft. It faces south and will get a lot of sun. Seems like we should use a semi-solid stain for best UV protection? Which colors would you recommend for use on redwood to still enjoy the wood appearance? Also, timing — our best calendar opportunity to apply a finish is mid-late September i.e. 6 weeks from now. (Work/seasonal issues.) Is that a long enough period to wait? Should we still use the cleaner first? Many thanks for your help!
[quote name=”Howie Hall”]Hi, I’ve used Armstrong semi transparent redwood color stain twice on our redwood deck. We love the color and the look, however on both occasions when someone sits on the wood the color of the stain comes off on their clothes. The first time I used the stain the problem didn’t start for nearly 2yrs so I figured it was time to refinish. I did and this time it happened only 6mo. later. I’ve stripped and “revived” the deck using Superdeck products. The deck is 20yrs old and in great shape as I’ve refinished it every 2yrs or so. What am I doing wrong now?Thanks, Howie Hall[/quote]
AC is a penetrating and fully curing stain, which means it should not do this. Did you “back wipe” the stain? You should not and this could create potential issues with the curing.
Hi, I’ve used Armstrong semi transparent redwood color stain twice on our redwood deck. We love the color and the look, however on both occasions when someone sits on the wood the color of the stain comes off on their clothes. The first time I used the stain the problem didn’t start for nearly 2yrs so I figured it was time to refinish. I did and this time it happened only 6mo. later. I’ve stripped and “revived” the deck using Superdeck products. The deck is 20yrs old and in great shape as I’ve refinished it every 2yrs or so. What am I doing wrong now?Thanks, Howie Hall
[quote name=”wendy”]If I sanded an old deck to remove all old paint etc do I still need 1 -to use a stripper and neutralizer on it or
2-do I use a cleaner and neutralizer???
Not sure what y next step is?
Its old cedar with new replacements mixed in…I sanded it all…..[/quote]
Just the cleaner and brightener kit as long as you have removed all of the old paint.
If I sanded an old deck to remove all old paint etc do I still need 1 -to use a stripper and neutralizer on it or
2-do I use a cleaner and neutralizer???
Not sure what y next step is?
Its old cedar with new replacements mixed in…I sanded it all…..
[quote name=”TerryM”]We have a two year old cedar deck (near Toronto). Last summer I used the RAD two-step cleaning system on the un-stained cedar and sanded the deck before applying two coats of the A&C Sierra Red Wood stain. This gave a pretty rich dark red wood colour. This summer, the deck was looking like it needed a cleaning and a maintenance coat (some of the stain was wearing thin). So I used the RAD cleaner and to my surprise a significant amount of stain came off the deck – it acted almost like a stripper. Any thoughts on why this may have occurred? Can I apply a maintenance coat of the same stain or should I be doing something else beforehand?[/quote]
The RAD kit should be used when reapplying the stain. It is not a stripper but a very effective cleaner. It can remove stain sometimes if “thin”. I would go ahead and finish the prepping and apply a coat of the same to the deck.
We have a two year old cedar deck (near Toronto). Last summer I used the RAD two-step cleaning system on the un-stained cedar and sanded the deck before applying two coats of the A&C Sierra Red Wood stain. This gave a pretty rich dark red wood colour. This summer, the deck was looking like it needed a cleaning and a maintenance coat (some of the stain was wearing thin). So I used the RAD cleaner and to my surprise a significant amount of stain came off the deck – it acted almost like a stripper. Any thoughts on why this may have occurred? Can I apply a maintenance coat of the same stain or should I be doing something else beforehand?
[quote name=”Charlie”]I have an old weathered deck with some grease stains from a grill and bird suet. What is the best way to prep the deck before staining? Will the RAD Stripper remove the grease?[/quote]
Sorry but nothing will remove the grease stains completely out of the wood. It is in too deep. You can still clean and brighten the deck for regular prep then stain over the grease spots. It may blend a little better.
I have an old weathered deck with some grease stains from a grill and bird suet. What is the best way to prep the deck before staining? Will the RAD Stripper remove the grease?
[quote name=”Cindy Browne”]Do you sell restore a deck products at your retail stores?[/quote]
At our store in Bloomfield Hills, MI we do.
Do you sell restore a deck products at your retail stores?
[quote name=”carla morgan”]I have applied a water proofing to deck. can I now apply the stain[/quote]
You would have to remove the water proofer first.
[quote name=”Chris Jones”]Hi, last fall I used your cedar seme-transparent stain to cover newly installed cedar deck boards. I am impressed with the finish, but we live under a lot of trees. There are some areas with surface mildew or mold. What is the procedure to prep these boards for a maintenance coat, thanks.[/quote]
Use the Restore a Deck Kit and light pressure washing for your prep.
Hi, last fall I used your cedar seme-transparent stain to cover newly installed cedar deck boards. I am impressed with the finish, but we live under a lot of trees. There are some areas with surface mildew or mold. What is the procedure to prep these boards for a maintenance coat, thanks.
[quote name=”Billymo”]I’m prepping my mahogany deck with your products. So far so good. There are a few small spots I need to hand sand. What grit sandpaper do I use on my mahogany deck?[/quote]
60-80 grit paper.
I’m prepping my mahogany deck with your products. So far so good. There are a few small spots I need to hand sand. What grit sandpaper do I use on my mahogany deck?
[quote name=”Kevin Bartley”]I have a 7 year old Ipe deck that we have used multiple applications of Penofin for hardwoods. Love the color but hate how quickly it fades. Current finish is 2 years old and deck has turned gray and has dark areas in the exposed area and 50% of color in the covered area.Please recommend product and process for cleaning and preparing surface for an application of the Armstrong Clark Mahogany Stain for Hardwoods Thanks[/quote]
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit in the top menu.
I have a 7 year old Ipe deck that we have used multiple applications of Penofin for hardwoods. Love the color but hate how quickly it fades. Current finish is 2 years old and deck has turned gray and has dark areas in the exposed area and 50% of color in the covered area.Please recommend product and process for cleaning and preparing surface for an application of the Armstrong Clark Mahogany Stain for Hardwoods Thanks
[quote name=”Sharlene”]we had our deck stained with your product and it’s still not dry. It looks dry, and if you touch it at first it feels dry but if you rub your finger you get a ton of stain on it. It’s all over my shoes and I won’t let anyone walk on it as it will track into my house !! When is it going to dry? Got stained 2 days ago…[/quote]
Rinse off the excess oil by flooding the deck with water then rinsing.
we had our deck stained with your product and it’s still not dry. It looks dry, and if you touch it at first it feels dry but if you rub your finger you get a ton of stain on it. It’s all over my shoes and I won’t let anyone walk on it as it will track into my house !! When is it going to dry? Got stained 2 days ago…
[quote name=”Jose negron”]So I plan to use the restore a deck cleaner and brightener on my one year old deck. After cleaning the deck do I need to wait for it to dry before brightening or can I go right into the brightening process once I wash off all of the cleaner?[/quote]
Apply the brightener as soon as you are done with the cleaning. No need to let it dry.
So I plan to use the restore a deck cleaner and brightener on my one year old deck. After cleaning the deck do I need to wait for it to dry before brightening or can I go right into the brightening process once I wash off all of the cleaner?
[quote name=”larry”]Can I use this product for cedar shakes roof.[/quote]
Yes you can.