The most crucial step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to properly prep the surface before staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality-formulated wood coatings with five generations’ worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain products, the wood surface must be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed-out wood, we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
Armstrong Clark Prepping Instructions
For wood surfaces with old deck stains or sealers, we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple-to-follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product to adequately prep the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Step two of the system follows either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that counteracts the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and corrects the wood’s pH level, making it more acidic. This opens the wood’s pores and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready, following the prepping instructions, allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. You can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil-Based Wood Stain with proper prepping. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
A stain “expert” stained my new douglas fir door which he “prepped” by sanding with 180 grit before applying Armstrong semi-transparent oil based stain. I am sure he only worsened the mill glaze.
The stain application understandably failed.
See photo. The darkly stained plank resting on the door is properly prepped redwood. You can see the contrast in stain uptake.
In the center panel the stain barely penetrated. After this photo was taken I removed almost all of the stain using mineral spirits. It came off with strong rubbing.
The side panels seem to have absorbed some of the stain. Very little comes off with mineral spirits. It does come off (and looks bleached) with lacquer remover.
The botched stain job was done two months ago.
What should I do now to redo the prep and staining hoping for a better result?
Cleaner then brightener? Does it need to be stripped first?
Should I sand lightly with 80 grit after cleaner & brightener or does the brightener open the pores adequately?
Strip to remove fully. Sand after with 60-80 grit. Brightener last.
Hi,
I just applied the RAD (step 1) on a recently installed red cedar fence to remove graying and prep surface for staining. After following all instructions, I can’t seem to remove the RAD cleaner off the fence boards. The cleaner clumps into small white waxy lumps. I am using my pressure washer (1900 psi) to do this.
Do you have any ideas on how to deal with this?
Here is a picture
That looks like wood oxdiation/dried wood cells that came off during the prep. It should high pressure rinse off. The cleaner does not clump.
I stained new pressure treated pine last summer with AC semi-transparent cedar. I believe I need to re-stain this summer…. if so, should I use RAD cleaner and brightener before I re-stain? (with same stain)
Yes, that is correct.
Hi there…..I’m a huge fan of your product and am now getting ready to apply a maintenance coat 2 years later. Your directions above (under Armstrong prepping instructions) say that I can just do the cleaner this time (no brightener needed) and then apply a maintenance coat (I previously used Restore-A-Deck..both the cleaner AND the brightener on new deck weathered one year per your directions). But in all of the comments in the ‘how to’ section under applying a maintenance coat, your admins have replied to people several times to use BOTH the cleaner and brightener, even for a maintenance coat. Which is correct? Thanks for your direction as of course we all want to do it right. 🙂
We suggest using the Brightener to neutralze after the Cleaner to help aid in the Stain’s longevity.
Thank you so much for your quick reply and clarification! FYI you might want to update that info in your ‘Armstrong prepping instructions’ above this thread, then. Using the brightener as step 2 is not mentioned or advised there. This is what I read in that area right above these comments (unless I’m misunderstanding):
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is easy. However, prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain, it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary, however, to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain. Simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner, and any old Armstrong Clark stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Thank you again! I’m looking forward to ordering your products again this year and getting this project done. Your excellent quality and dependable product makes me look forward to the job! 🙂
I need to clean my deck before re-staining. Can I clean it using RAD Cleaner and a cleaning brush and rinse with a hose? I do not have a power washer.
You can use the cleaner and scrub but much easier and effective to use the pressure washer.
Looking at using the restore a deck kit. Are these solutions rinsed off between applications? Should the deck be power washed after cleaning solution is applied and before staining? The deck is less than a year old (tigerwood) and has barely been used, However, the oil the contractor used hasn’t held up.
Hello,
If you have an oil coating you need the Restore-A-Deck Stripper and Brightener Kit for prep. You pressure wash off after applying the stripper. Rinse, apply the Brightener, and then rinse that after 10 minutes.
I want to apply the finish to an older mahogany deck that is very weathered and never had anything applied to it. What I want to do is sand it down to the original wood color, starting with 40 grit, then 60, then 80, and possibly 100 grit. My question is can I skip the cleaning with this deep sanding?
No. You should never sand finer than 60-80 and after any sanding you should clean and brighten to open the wood grain for the stain.
Staining cedar shake siding for the first time. Siding was installed last fall. Do I need cleaner and brightener and if so do I need brushing or just spray on and off with both?
Yes, you need to clean and brighten. Spray on with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Also do you have the instructions in Spanish?
We do not but you can copy and paste into Google Translate.
I need to re-stain my deck. I have always used your Natural Oak semi trans. Do I need the stripper or just the cleaner and brightener?
Use the RAD Cleaner/Brightener Kits.
How long do I need to wait to stain a new deck with pressure treated wood?
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
See comment about cedar deck turning black.
Cedar deck. Stripped off TWP cedar stain and brightened and stained with Armstrong Sierra Redwood in August. Four months later after a wet winter the deck is turning black. Cannot upload picture as i have done before. HEIF image from my iphone.
Looks like dirt or mildew on top of the stain. If you take a wet rag it should wipe off. Deck stains like AC cannot prevent things from accumulating on top of the coating. Try some warm water and a little bit of dish soap to clean.
How can I download the Cleaner Brightener application instructions?
In the pics on this link, you can save the photos for each product instructions to your computer and then open them to read.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
i just purchased the clean and brighten kit for my deck. Can I also use the kit on my teak deck furniture? I’d like to get the discoloration off the furniture and need suggestions. I have a power washer, should that be used as well? I can add a photo of furniture but don’t see how to do it?
Yes, you can use the kits but post some pics for prep advice. Use the attachment icon in the bottom right corner to upload pics.
FYI, initially I used Safari and MS Edge browser and attachment icon did not appear. It appears if I use Chrome.
Use the Cleaner and Brightener Kit while pressure washing for the prep.
I stripped and then brightened. If after two weeks of no stain can i just brighten or do i need to clean and brighten?
Just brighten and rinse well.
Will RAD cleaner/brightener harm a newly stained deck?
It might so best to keep it off.
Ok thank you!
I have a three year old IPE deck that has been stained with Cedar Semi-Trans stain. I am using Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper to remove the old stain.
I have applied the stripper three times but have not been able to completely remove the old finish. See photo
When applied the stripper turns very slippery and gooey and is VERY difficult to remove. Am I doing something wrong?
You removed it but over stripped. You need to brighten now and then possibly sand all wood evenly at 60-80 grit. For IPE, you need one of the hardwood colors like Amber.
I’m prepping to stain my 2 year old deck (no previous stain has been applied). I’ve finished the first step using RAD Cleaner, and some pieces of wood are left with a raised texture to them (refer to pictures). What should I do with these boards?
Do I need to re-do the cleaning process on these boards, doing some additional scrubbing with a brush?
Or should I sand them?
That is wood furring. See here for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Is it OK to prep the deck using the 2-step process – then apply the stain a week or two later?
Yes, but redo prep if longer than 2 weeks.
We have a Cumaru deck that has weathered over the years and turned grey. We are adding some new cumaru to the vertical sides of the deck in several places. We intend to use the Restor-a-deck clean and brightener kit on the old deck and then stain both the old wood and the new with your amber stain hoping for a match. What do you think? Is there anything else we should do?
See this about the new wood. It cannot be stained yet and has to be prepped as well after weathering: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I stained my deck with Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain on Saturday. Sunday was a full-sun day with no rain. Monday it started raining and is supposed to rain for the next five days. That’s about 34 hours after staining until the rain came. Should I be concerned?
No.
I purchased the Padco deck stain pad and will be using AC semi-solid stain. After staining, what is the recommendation for cleaning the stain pad?
Mineral spirits.
what do I use to clean up my sprayer after using the oil based stain?
Mineral spirits.
Thank you!
How much time does the applied stain need before it rains for the 1st time?
4-8 hours. Dry time varies based on exposure to sun and temps.
Thanks very much! temps have been upper 70’s and I see a good amount of sun for a good 6-8 hours a day. I have one coat on all of it now. The rail top and deck seem a bit lighter than the verts which I kinda expected as I was able to get more of the old off horizontally. Would a 2nd coat provide some darkness/depth? I would apply it tomorrow if so. Thanks for being here for us. My wife is LOVING the Natural Oak I picked. I did something right!
More is not always better. Leave as is and if desired, clean and recoat the floors next year.
Will do. You folks are as good as your product. A couple after pics to show your product in place. Thanks again, Shep
Looks great! You can enter our contest here: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-2023-contest-win-cash
I’m going to be applying this on a tiger wood fence. What is the proper way to apply after prep?Spray and back brush. Roll and back brush or just brush. Thank you
This is the wrong AC stain color for hardwoods like yours. You need one of the Hardwood colors: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
Use a stain pad to apply: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/padco-deck-and-wood-stain-pads-brushes-pads-sprayers
I have an older pressure treated wood deck that I have completely sanded down to bare wood, removing all of the old semi solid stain (brand unknown), The wood is clean and generally solid. Do you recommend any additional prep prior to application of AC semi solid stain?
Yes, prep with this after sanding to open up the wood grain:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
I used 180 grit on old handrails. Do I have to sand it with 60-80 grit paper now? The wood is 30 years old.
Yes. Clean and brighten after.
Hello, I am going to re-stain a mahogany front porch. Should I use the cleaner and brightener, or the stripper than cleaner and brightener? Thanks
Same stain brand and color?
it was originally stained using Cabot semi transparent. Much of the wood exposed to sunlight is gray. Stained approximately 10 years ago. Thanks.
If not stain is left then clean and brighten for prep.
there is some stain in certain areas. Should we use a stripper ? Over the whole porch? Then follow up with cleaner and brightener before using the Amber stain color
Strip all then. No need for cleaner. Brightener last.
Thanks
I power washed a silvered ipe deck and sanded it with 80 grit orbital sander. Do I just need to use the brightener then stain with the mahogany stain?
Yes, that will work.
Thanks, my square footage is 112. 1 gallon of stain should be enough, correct
Yes.
How many square feet does one RAD kit cover?
See here for the product page: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
600-1000 sq feet per kit.
We have been using Armstrong Clark stain from the time our pressure treated deck was built and have only used semi-transparent Rustic Brown. It’s been 3 years since we last stained the deck. Do we need to use the cleaner and brightener or stripper/brightener before staining with same color again?
Cleaner and brightener while pressure washing.
Pressure washing is OK? At what PSI and how close should you be from the wood?
Yes, pressure wash. Around 1500-2000 PSI and 6-12 inches away from the wood.
Thank you!
Our redwood deck is about 20 years old, last stained with Superdeck. I have stripped and brightened one small part. The power washing after stripping and the washing after brightening seemed to bring out so much yellow liquid that I wonder if I am removing tannins/oils that should not have come out. The wood now has a furry look which I can probably sand off but should I have used a lot less prep chemicals?
Also, should I have used a brush vs. sprayer on the balusters to save product?
Finally, how important is it to avoid sunlight? We waited this time until dusk but ran out of time to finish the job before it got dark.
You are stripping it correctly and you are not removing the tannins. Spray on the stripper and pressure wash off. Sunlight does not matter when stripping, just keep it wet while working.
I am going to be staining new column wraps on my carport. They are treated pine. I am a little unsure about the instructions. Do I need to wait 6 months after installation to stain? (I got this thinking from reading the can… where it says -“New Wood Weathering” and the chart -“Time Listed Is From Date of Installation”
Thanks
See here: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
My wife striped the rear Ipe deck an power washed then stained with Armstrong Mahogany solid. She is planning to wash and power scrub before she re-applies the same Armstrong Mahogany solid stain. I think she is going to remove a good prior coat with her plan. I understood that a gentile (non-power) soap/cleaner scrub is all that’s required then 2day drying before the new coat of Ipe Armstrong Ipe Mahogany solid stain. I need your thoughts before we argue over this, PLEASE!
When was the first coat applied?
Last year in Fall
Then you need to do the full prep. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Hi, I am in the course of stripping the paints off my deck and will replace some of the boards. However I am unable to tell what kind of woods and hence what stain I should use. I will prep the deck first by RAD cleaning kit before applying the stain. Would semi-transparent stain be suitable? Kindly advise. Thanks in advance!
Frances
Yes any of the Armstong Clark colors or transparencies will work.
I have a 30+ year old pressure treated deck. I used a Cabot product called Deck Correct a couple of years ago, which is now peeling off all over the place. I live in Vermont – harsh winters and lots of moisture. My contractor says he can just pressure wash the horizontal surfaces to remove the Deck Correct (it’s really like a paint) and then use (your) stain. The wood is old but still in good shape other than dried out! My question is – Is pressure washing sufficient or must the restore-a-deck product be used also? Thank you.
You cannot strip off the Deck Correct and you cannot pressure wash it all off. It has to be power sanded to remove.
So just power sanding and then use the stain? Is an orbital sander okay or does it need a band sander? I purchased 5 gallons of cedar semi transparent.
Thank you.
You will need heavy-duty sanding equipment to remove the Deck Correct. It is not easy to sand that product off.
Also can it be applied with a roller? THanks!
I have new hemlock siding where I used a water based stain that looked more like paint than stain. Possibly I should have sanded it first? I have removed that stain over much of it (arduous task!) by sanding and a sample patch of oak semi transparent shows the wood grain. I am considering the stripper on any remaining unsanded portions…because of noise considerations for my neighbor? Do I need the brightener on all?
Yes, you have to brighten but if it looks like paint, then it cannot be stripped.
Is it necessary to sand old deck tp remove previous Cabot stain or does the Restore-A- Deck to the trick?
That would depend on the type of Cabot stain it was? Some can be stripped and some can not. It does have to come off fully.
Australian Timber Oil was what I used.
The oil-based version? If so, use this kit for prep: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Yes, thank you.
So would the best way be install with a garden sprayer and then pressure wash?
Correct.
thank you.
How much pressure should I use in the pressure washer when removing the preexisting stain – using your Restore-A-Deck products – on my cedar deck?
About 1200-2000 psi.
I have previously used Cabot Cedar Wood Toner on my two cedar porches. But I want to switch to Armstrong, just because it can be applied in sunlight. I plan on using the RAD cleaning system. Will this 2-product cleaning system remove all the old Cabot product to allow the Armstrong stain to penetrate and adhere to the cedar wood? How long will the Armstrong stain last? I plan on selling my house next year. Will it need to be touched up before putting my house on the market? The porches are 20 years old. Cabot Wood Toner had been reapplied about every 2 years.
You will need the RAD Stripper/Brightener Kit for prep, not the Cleaner. AC typically lasts 2-3 years, maybe longer.
I think the spots on my exterior glass door are overspray from the Restore a Deck product used last summer. Windex and rubbing alcohol are not getting it off, I have not tried with mineral spirits or razor blade yet. Is there a preferred method for removing these spots, if that is what it is? Thanks
The prep products do not harm glass so not sure what it is.
Have 4 yr old redwood deck previously stained/sealed with Behr Redwood Semi Transparent Stain/sealer (from Home Depot) – planning on sanding (to remove what is left of old stain and blemishes) and need info on what to do after sanding. Do I use the RAD and pressure wash? How long to let it dry out after washing? I plan to use the Semi Solid Redwood Sequoia product. Also what is the best way to apply this?
Yes, use the RAD Prep kit after the sanding. Let dry for 48 hours and then stain. Use stain pads and brushes for best results.
When you say prep kit is that the stripper and cleaner and brightener or which combo? Do I need to use the stripper since I have sanded the deck? Based on above info sounds like sand, cleaner and brightener.
Clean and brighten since you already removed the Behr.